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Tag >> ticket pocket
Now entering it's third season, Boardwalk Empire has become an international success thanks to it's Award Winning writer (Terence Winter) and director (Martin Scorsese). I must confess that my newly developed love of this programme is all down to my customers - I had no idea how many people had been inspired by their fabulous 1920's attire ! When one thinks of 20's fashion the mind instantly jumps to flapper dresses and spats with very high and wide trousers - but this has given us a more realistic, day-to-day fashion to relate to.
With and wedding seasons upon us have been looking for an alternative to the more summery Pale , and Boardwalk Empire seems to have been the motivator of so many of their designs! So I've taken a look at some of the most popular requests and my personal favourites from the first couple of seasons:.
Enoch Nucky Thompson played by Steve Buscemi is our classic lovable rogue, leader of all things underhand and undisputed ruler of Atlantic City - and owner of a spectacular array of suits . If we look at the basics of this first suit you can see a three piece suit , 6 button Double Breasted jacket with peaked lapels and single breasted 6 button waistcoat . Pocket wise you're looking at straight flapped pockets with one right ticket pocket - very appropriate for the era. The double breasted jacket is always going to look wider when left un-buttoned due to the extra fabric but so long as it's well fitted it shouldn't have to look boxey or gaping when open.
If we then move on to some further examples you will notice that the fabric may change, but the principle components have stayed exactly the same. Never one to shy away from a bold fabric these checks and pinstripes certainly allow him to captivate the room.
A slightly rarer appearance of a single-breasted jacket from Nucky shows his obedience to traditional tailoring concepts. Double breasted = peaked lapels , single breasted = notched lapels . And he's even continued this less dramatic look by removing the lapels from the waistcoat and opting for a plain front. Though I think these images really emphasize the difference the peaked collar makes, going a long way to create the dramatic, powerful and masculine demeanour required for such a role. The consistent appearance of his signature red carnation in his buttonhole is just a lovely finishing touch.
With Rachel now covering Oxford and Reading the City Road team has had a bit of a re-shuffle. The City Road girls, me and Rach are only together two days a week and in honour of this we decided to collaborate on a blog, me on the words, Rach on the pics.
Perfect little setup as I think I am the only fashion graduate who can't draw. Now, it may still be summer but if your want a new for Autunm this is the time to start thinking about it.
Our normal turn around is 6-8weeks plus fittings so even if you are still swanning around in your light grey suit and shades don't leave your Autunm option to the last minute. My favourite time of year is Autunm, the evenings have only just started to get dark and the colours are brilliant, perfect inspiration for your suiting designs.
Me and Rach have come up with three outfit ideas to get you started. First up, 'A Classic Three Piece with an edge.'
This is a great outfit for the more classic gent. The use of a contrast collar, pocket flaps and waistcoat give it that extra special something. The contrasting colour choice can be as wild or as subtle as you like. For this design we've gone with FLA-26, a grey heavy weight wool and cashmere cloth contrasted with HAB-2; a light brown herringbone cloth, also a heavy weight wool and cashmere. This is a real winner for Autumn and an idea that can be adapted for all seasons, events and occasions.
Fashion Forward suiting
Now, if you want something a little more on trend but still subtle, concentrate on your detailing. It is said that menswear is all about the details, something quite small can make all the difference. Again we've gone with a herringbone;HAB-3A, a grey wool and cashmere. The HAB's are such great cloths for the Autumn and can be really jazzed up with a splash of bright colour. With this outfit we've gone with straight flapless pockets with an extra ticket pocket all edged in red velvet. The red theme is carried on through to the cuff and lapel buttonhole stitching as well as a fushia lining.
Wild Autumn Oranges
Sometimes, classic and trendy are not what you want, sometimes, you want to walk into a room and make everyone go, wow! Our Sharkskin 5603-6 is a bronze cloth with a tonic weave that can do that. Keep the design very simple with a notched collar, slanted flapless pockets and straight leg trousers. With a really simple design you can afford to add a silk orange tie and really turn heads. The main thing to remember is that although suiting has a strong connection to the world of the nine to five it does not have to be dull. Tailoring is all about beautiful garments and amazing details.
All comic book fans have been spoilt for choice this year with the release of such films as 'The Avengers, Avengers Assemble', 'Men In Black 3', and most recently 'The Amazing Spider-Man'. And with every great film comes a glamorous premiere providing a super sartorial spectacle! I was particularly impressed when leafing through the photographs from the event, to find such a variation of suit customisations.
Leading lady Emma Stone looks absolutely stunning (as always) yet her outfit is simple and chic. A pair of lengthens the leg, and with a thin gold buckled belt it draws the eye into the smallest part of the waist.
Even with a dangerously daring plunge neckline everything is secure, adding the perfect amount of glamour to the ensemble. Spider-Man himself, Andrew Garfield, was looking sharp in a simple black single breasted two button suit. A little controversial going for a navy tie with a black suit but that's just personal taste!
Next we have villain and infamous Welshman Rhys Ifans with girlfriend Anna Friel, wearing a fabulously green suit, definitely in keeping with his character, The Lizard. Green might seem quite a bright colour but as long as you keep it rich and dark you can really make a statement, a flannel in forest green would be perfect.
And finally we have director Marc Webb, who has also chosen a classic black single breasted suit. Webb is wearing another example of a half-width notched lapel. He's extended the theme to his tie and shirt collar to ensure the whole outfit is balanced.
Attention to detail: Hand stitched lapels Similar to the ticket pocket, hand-stitching on the Lapels isn't a feature you'd necessarily think about when designing a suit but once you've had it brought to your attention it's a subtle detail you'll notice on every other jacket from then on!
Some people love it, some people hate it, but on a simple suit such as Marc Webb's it adds a little something to make the outfit all the more distinctive. I would certainly recommend using hand-stitching on lightweight cloths verses thicker ones as it is less likely to sink in and will stand out. You can choose to have hand-stitching on any of our jacket lapels at A Suit That Fits so if you love it - we'll make it happen!
When I sit down with a client and ask the question Plain? or Pinstripe?, I am often met with a reply such as Ermmmm. I'm not sure. What do you think? My answer will vary depending on a few things; The first thing I usually want to know is, what will the suit be used for.
This, combined with your body shape, height and personality will help me determine my answer. I usually try to avoid on really tall people, unless it's quite a fine stripe, or a faint stripe.
Thicker stripes will only accentuate your height as it draws attention to the length of the lines. I find a plain cloth works much better on tall people, and the addition of a ticket pocket really helps to break the jacket up, taking the focus away from your height. It's amazing the difference choosing the right cloth can make. For instance, if you are of a fairly large build a plain cloth can exaggerate your frame, making you appear larger than you actually are. Using a wide pinstripe can has the reverse effect, making it also a great cloth for the shorter gent. I would always use a wider stripe rather than a narrow stripe, as less stripes are more flattering.
Looking at the photo above a wide chalk stripe really works to slim down Anthony Hopkins while the light grey keeps the look some what casual. Another great use of the stripe is when designing a double breasted jacket. Anyone entering my studio looking for a double breasted suit will be encouraged to choose a wide stripe as I think it fits really well with the overall look. Plain cloth can also work really well for a DB but again body shape should be considered.
One final piece of advice on the Plain, or Pinstripe debate is to think about your shirts and ties at home before you design your new garments. I tend to stick to the two out of three rule when it comes to stripes. That is, always make sure that you have two of one, and one of the other when choosing your outfit for the day. It's not always a good idea to wear a stripe on your suit, shirt and tie. I would always have one of them plain to balance the outfit perfectly. This photo of 50 Cent is a great example, a plain suit and shirt with a matching striped tie and pocket square.
Perhaps the one design feature that divides sartorial purists, is that of the ticket pocket. The ticket pocket is a secondary, smaller pocket that usually resides above the outer right pocket, but in some bespoke examples can be found on the left.
The 's origins can be traced to an upturn in the popularity of rail as a way of getting from A to B. Travelling by train began as a luxury, but soon became the preferred method of travel for thousands of commuters throughout the country.
With it's growing accessibility and popularity, the UK's city workers now required a place to keep their rail tickets, for quick and easy access at the request of the conductor. And so the ticket pocket was born!
For those looking for a more distinctive design to their suit, or those that need somewhere to stash their business cards, the ticket pocket is a great nod to older tradition and perfect for anyone looking to add a period touch. We would be delighted to accommodate it in your bespoke jacket design.
Following on from my last posting on the style details to consider with you first suit, here is my personal advice on pockets, sleeves and vents.
Pockets: There should be three outer pockets on the jacket, two on the hips and one on the breast. Unless you want to be flashy, I personally wouldnt go for a ticket pocket (small extra pocket above the right-hand waist pocket) or for sloping, 'hacking pockets.
Trouser pockets should be cut as overlapping material rather than slits in the trousers, though they can be cut at an angle to avoid them gaping.
Sleeves: The sleeves should usually have four buttons each. When your hands are at your side, the sleeve should reach your wrist bone, where the hand joins the arm, and it should leave exposed a small sliver of shirt (under half an inch).
Jacket others: Go for two vents at the back: this allows you to put your hands in your pockets without buckling the shape (no vents) or unveiling your bottom (one vent).
The jackets length should be such that it covers your bottom well, and your fingers extend a little beyond it when they are at your side.
The strength or padding of the shoulder depends on how broad and square you think your shoulders are - only ask for less padding or a natural shoulder if you think they need no help at all.
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