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Tag >> tailor-made
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Apr 28
2010
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Richard Anderson can write. This quickly becomes apparent as the reader embarks on the story of his time on Savile Row – from dishevelled apprentice to Huntsman’s youngest-ever head cutter. The realisation that a book is to be chronological, and start at the very beginning, is normally accompanied by a long intake of breath. Fortunately, even the description of Anderson’s father taking his 17-year old to the job interview is entertaining.It helps that the story of Huntsman’s takeover reads like a genuine thriller, with high stakes, espionage and betrayal. And throughout the 20-odd years described, characters such as Colin Hammick, Brian Hall and Dick Lakey necessarily breed amusing anecdotes. Such as the time Lakey tried to rescue 10 pairs of white trousers by washing them at home, only for the zips to stain the crotch; then adding lemon, only for it to add its own mark; and then successfully washing them clean, only for foxes to tear them off the washing line and eat them.
But Anderson’s writing has its own rhythm and pathos. A liking for short, one-sentence paragraphs and chapter-ending cliff hangers means the story tumbles along.
The latter sections on Richard Anderson Ltd, after the fall of Huntsman, are nowhere near as self-serving as I had been led to believe. The style switches from chronology to analysis, enabling short sections on women in the industry, a day in the life and ready-to-wear clothing in Japan. The second of these three chapters is particularly interesting for an insight into the running of a bespoke firm, and the challenges in figuration, for example, that come up every day. Such as the wadding, canvas, styrofoam and even plasticine used to try and deal with James Fox’s tricky shoulders.
And while some will bemoan the fact that suits under Savile Row names are made in Japanese factories for local clients, the description of how this functions is fascinating.
For tailoring enthusiasts there are several insightful sections on the practice of cutting. The description of how Anderson learned to cut trousers for the first time, for example, and then later how to take measurements ahead of his first trip to the US. Indeed, for those not enthused by technical detail the passages where Hall describes the chalking of back and foreparts could even be too much.
There is, finally, a surprisingly in-depth glossary. I can now identify a bar tack, describe the nap on various cloths and relate the origins of Silesia (named after a region of Poland because of the inventor’s wife’s sympathies for a country being partitioned between Germany, Austria and Russia. The descriptions only suffer from the inevitable difficulty in describing the look and feel of different cloths without imagery.
Highly recommended.
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Apr 16
2010
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Peg legs are without a doubt this season's hot new trouser shape, appearing on several international runways including Stella McCartney and Chloe, and are the perfect style-conscious choice for those of who like a tailored look. There's no doubting their fashion credentials, but with all that extra fabric around our bums and thighs, are they cool and edgy or should they be thrown overboard?
Peg-leg trousers are double pleated at the waist and then tapers in just above the ankle, with turned-up hems. This 80s-inspired boyish cut is part of what is dubbed this season’s trend of "Boyfriend Dressing” - this classic look has 'thrown-on' style and has a touch of attitude. It's not a look that is flattering for everyone, but the loose cut at the top makes them ideal for anyone who's self-conscious about their stomach or thighs. Since a large part of the battle is getting a pair that fits you perfectly, the wisest choice is to get them tailor-made for you by A Suit That Fits.com.
Peg-legs are a versatile cut, and can be dressed up with a slim fit shirt and or dressed down with a ’glitzy’ t-shirt. As spring is almost here, try pairing them with some strappy sandals to give that carefree look and add a wide, chunky belt for a casual style. My favourite peg legs are our A Suit That Fits.com bespoke tailor-made ladies trousers from our herringbone range, which I wear with a contrasting jacket/blazer in ivory to break up the look and create a classy, monochromatic style.
Ask us for the Peg leg trouser look at A Suit That Fits.com and we will run through the many styles and fabric variations for ladies trouser to ensure we create a style and fit that accentuates and flatters your figure.
