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It has been said that there are only seven stories in the world and every story written is just a variation on these seven basic themes - the same could be said for tailoring , but just as every story feels new and exciting despite having the same basic concept as those that have gone before it, so does every trend.
We also look back on the classics with fondness and just as writers take inspiration from the past masters, so do tailors .
Each generation adds its own twist on the classics, with designers throughout the '50s and '60s taking inspiration from the narrower cuts created through necessity in the '40s. Suits then exploded into the '70s with lapels stretching out to the shoulders and trousers matching the bell bottom trend seen in jeans.
The 1980s power suit saw a revamped version of the 1930s wardrobe staple with double breasted , square cut jackets and pleated trousers often in bold stripe fabrics.
The 2000s saw a revival of the close cut styles seen in the 1960s; with close cut jackets, ankle skimming drainpipe trousers and skinny ties.
Our attitude towards tailoring has also changed throughout the decades. Up until the 1950s a smart jacket was a staple in every man's casual wardrobe and he would rarely be seen without a tie but youth culture and casual denim pushed suiting out of favour and it soon became reserved for office and occasion.
Tailoring came back into favour in the 1980s with pastel coloured blazers being paired with casual items such as t-shirts and jeans. However, once again the 1990s, we have seen casual suiting working its way back into the everyday wardrobes of men. We can now see blazers and tweeds as they were in the early 20th century.
With suits no longer being reserved for special occasions it is more important than ever to look back at those basic principles that have been laid down to make sure they can stand up to the pressures of everyday life. With proper fitting, quality materials and excellent workmanship a suit will work hard and last a lifetime.
Although trends may change over the years a well fitted suit will always work, after all style never goes out of fashion.
-Sarah Coates
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Nothing is sharper than a fine tailored suit . It evokes a certain kind of confidence and I think that is the most important part of a gentleman's wardrobe. However to my surprise, a lot of men get it all wrong when it comes down to the nitty-gritty.
If you are going to wear a suit, make sure it's a full suit and a combination of a suit jacket and a pair of trousers . They may be the same color, but the texture and shade can vary dramatically and anyone in the know will be able to tell the difference. Suit trousers always wear out faster than the jacket , so when purchasing a suit , it is always a wise investment to buy an additional pair of trousers.
To button or not to button that is the question most confusing for a lot of guys. Follow these rules and you will never get it wrong again.
Two-button jacket : The rule is very simple here. Never button the bottom button of your jacket ever!
Three-button jacket : The rule here is Sometimes (top button), Always (middle button) and never (bottom button).
Double-breasted jacket : Follow the same rules here as the single breasted jackets. 6x2 double breasted is the most popular style. As seen in the picture, the bottom buttonhole is never buttoned, just like its 2 button single-breasted counterparts.
Functional cuffs : A fine tailored suit will always have working buttonholes. In this case, you want to always leave the bottom buttonhole opened.
Waistcoat : Does not matter how many button is on the waistcoat . You want to always leave the last buttonhole on your waistcoat opened.
Jacket length is very tricky because of the current crop jacket look. Unless you are going for a super trendy look, I recommend you to follow the classic jacket length rule.
Jacket length should be half of your total body proportions. This way, you ensure that your seat is always covered, which is the most appropriate for the office. You can go shorter if you like, but make sure that the back of your jacket falls below your seat.
Sleeve length is a very personal thing. Some guys like to show sleeve cuff while others prefer not. If you like to show a little cuff , make sure to show about 3/8 to 1/2, anything more than that will make your jacket sleeve length seem way too short. If you are not a fan of showing cuff , then make sure your jacket sleeve length falls right where the biggest part of your thumb begins, right below your wrist.
Functional cuffs : A fine tailored suit will always have working buttonholes. In this case, you want to always leave the bottom buttonhole opened.
Waistcoat : Does not matter how many button is on the waistcoat . You want to always leave the last buttonhole on your waistcoat opened.
Jacket length is very tricky because of the current crop jacket look. Unless you are going for a super trendy look, I recommend you to follow the classic jacket length rule.
Jacket length should be half of your total body proportions. This way, you ensure that your seat is always covered, which is the most appropriate for the office. You can go shorter if you like, but make sure that the back of your jacket falls below your seat.
Sleeve length is a very personal thing. Some guys like to show sleeve cuff while others prefer not. If you like to show a little cuff , make sure to show about 3/8 to 1/2, anything more than that will make your jacket sleeve length seem way too short. If you are not a fan of showing cuff , then make sure your jacket sleeve length falls right where the biggest part of your thumb begins, right below your wrist.
From left to right:
Sleeve is way too long.
Perfect amount of shirt cuff shown here
Sleeve is way too short.
The most contemporary style right now is the flat front trouser , no cuffs with a slight break. (Yes, showing socks is definitely a plus, so make sure you wear the nice ones!)
The more classic and elegant way to wear a pair of trouser is pleated with a cuff. It is definitely more of a retro look . If you are going to go with this style, the trick to making it more modern is to wear it with a 1 to 2 cuff with a very narrow bottom and a slight break.
-SHAO YANG
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1. Suits YouSimply put, does the colour of your suit suit you?Salt 'n' Pepper hair colour = greysRed head = autumnals; browns
Point-to-point elements of the garment should be adjusted to fit if needs be; sleeve/trouser length. 3. Shirt Sleeves need only reach the top of your hands - they are not mittens and need not provide any protection for the hand. Jacket sleeves ought to be cut 1/2 shorter than the shirt sleeves' length if you like to shoot a little cuff.Shirt collars should fit with space enough for one's index finger to be inserted between collar and neck. Any larger and the collar will kink and buckle when the tie is tightened.
4. Tie A contrasting coloured tie or simple pocket square can make all the difference in setting the tone and can also set-off an otherwise run of the mill suit. Be sure to choose a tie colour that contrasts and compliments both your suit and shirt. If you have a club tie by all means wear it but this is no excuse for not observing the rules regarding colour-matching.And remember, it is better to be the only man in a room wearing a tie than be the only man not wearing a tie.
5. ShoesShoes can quite literally make or break a suit - or any outfit for that matter.Ask any woman and they'll tell you that what lets most men down is their choice of shoe.I generally let the toe-shape of the shoe dictate what shape trousers to wear e.g. narrow or bootcut for a longer toe shape, drainpipe or slightly tapered for squared toe shapes
6.Wear Care: PressingIf you've had a suit made for you, have it pressed before its maiden voyage - off-the-peg suits are pressed before they reach the shop floor, tailor-made suits are generally not.
7. Wear Care: Storage for Trousers After each wear, hang trousers upside down from the ankles using a clamp hanger or a skirt-clip hanger. This will keep the creases that you want, where you want them and eradicate others.
8. Wear Care: Storage for Jackets Your jacket ought to be hung on a hanger that best supports the shoulder and will keep their shape better if worn by you yourself - wool will take the shape of whatever it is draped over, hence if your hanger is too wide the sleeve head will remain misshapen. Hang jackets outside your wardrobe overnight before returning to storage. This gives the garment the opportunity to breathe and aerate.
9. CleaningContrary to popular belief, suits do not require dry cleaning every week or even month! Limit dry cleaning to twice a year but steam and press as often as your suit requires freshening up and/or sharpening up. I generally have a suit pressed when the centre crease is no longer easily identifiable
10. AccessoriesI am referring of course to adornment and not shoes.A simple pocket square can really set-off a suit and is the only item which is exempt from the rules of colour matching and can be a different colour to all items in one's ensemble.
If you have any sartorial dilemmas, then please do get in touch!
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With time ticking towards the end of my first week as an employee at A Suit That Fits, I thought it time to share the fashion insights I have gathered over the last three daysso here goes
A Suit That Fits will tell you differently. A Suit That Fits has what can only be described as a 'Passion for Fashion'. There is a genuine feeling from top to bottom here, that everybody has the right to look great, and furthermore has the right to a tailor made suit. No longer is the tailor made suit exclusive to the top end of the pay scale.
What strikes me as integral to the company, especially from those based in the branches, is that there is no such thing as a poor choice when customising your own suit. Creativity is actively encouraged, and this only further heightens my belief, that this company believes you should wear what you feel great in. Don't try conforming to a fashion identity; create your own fashion identity. If you want a white suit, with black stitching, green buttons and bright pink interior lining, then I'm sure everyone here would say GO NUTS... it simply means that you have the courage to break the mould.
I feel I should confirm that I actively support current trends; after all, for most of us, they do shape our fashion identity. Most people to dress to a style expected of them, and A Suit That Fits is far more than capable of helping you create the perfect suit for any occasion; I just feel it necessary to point out that individual creativity should be encouragedwherever and whatever that may lead to.
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The first day of any new adventure can be daunting. Long buried images of yourself at seven years old spring to mind, as your new teacher introduces you to your new class mates, and you gingerly wave your hand, and mumble something resembling Hello! Thankfully, the new adventure I have embarked on today has been quite the opposite.
Wednesday the 2nd of June was my first day as a PR Executive at A Suit That Fits. There were no hard glares from the class bully or whispered jokes about my rucksack from the back of the class; instead, welcoming handshakes and friendly smiles. Every single member of the dynamic team here made a special effort to introduce themselves. In fact, I have never felt more welcome anywhere. The team here went out of their way to make me feel instantly valued after all, not many people get to sit in on business meetings on their first day. There is a genuine feeling here that every person can make a proactive contribution, and that every member of the team has something to offer on an individual level.
The Marketing team here thrive on ideas. If you have an idea you are encouraged to share it. The 'there's no such thing is a bad idea' philosophy seems to be in full swing here if you have something positive to say, say it. A motto that should perhaps be used more often in our everyday lives. Whilst it is only my first day here, I already feel something that resembles settled. My desk and laptop were waiting expectantly for me, as well as a friendly introductory coffee and Twix! I still have lots to learn about the company, and I'm sure everyone here will learn plenty about me. But, that is what excites me, and I hope and feel that that is what excites them. I look forward immensely to growing into the role and making an active and valuable contribution to the extraordinary work the marketing team have already done.
I've also had some pretty useful advice on what it takes to get through a first day...
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