A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> slim lapel
I don't think there has ever been a blog written by me about a lad who attended the same school as me. Mind you, there's been a good few years difference between myself attending St. Aidans High School in Wishaw, and the very talented Nicholas.
However, from keeping in touch with some of my former teachers, I am told that he's a great lad. Today though, I want to talk about his styling. I have to admit, being tutored by Louis Walsh did concern me slightly, but the X Factor style team have stepped up to the mark.
This weekend saw the marvellous Big Band week, which also happens to be one of my favourite genres. Nicholas took to the stage in a fantastic tux, with single button fastening, slim lapels and straight pockets with flaps. Very modern looking, but with a classic twist. It's not always his Saturday night outfits that impress me. I've been waiting for weeks to find a good reason to feature his Tartan Check jacket he usually wears for the Sunday night elimination show. It just looks fantastic. Tartan Check jackets are not something I would normally associate with 16 year old Scottish lads, but Nicholas does look very smart when wearing this.
I think the show have managed to embrace the 16 year old's style by giving him a more mature look, which is actually quite fun. I give my best wishes to the youngster in this competition. I think he'll go far, and if he does, this may not be the last blog you'll see featuring our fellow Scot.
A huge proportion of visitors to my studio chose to come with a friend, partner, spouse, boyfriend/girlfriend for that all important second opinion - and each and every one gets just as involved as the suit wearer if not more, to ensure that their suit will be perfect and that they feel proud to wear it.
Even with the greatest of intentions we often struggle to know what to recommend when purchasing suits whether it be bespoke or off-the-peg. You may have seen a photo in a magazine that looked perfect but when you put the same style on yourself you wonder what you ever saw in it! It's all about playing to your strengths and democratically disguising your weaknesses - all of which can be done with the right suit!.
Picture the scene: It's a Saturday afternoon, it's your friend's wedding in 3 weeks and your girlfriend politely hints that the pile of rags she's been trying to throw away for 9 months since you split the trousers during a limbo accident at a previous friend's wedding needs replacing.
So you pick out a few suits that look good on the model, head into the changing rooms and are then greeted by this...
Not what you were hoping for. So what's the problem? It feels comfortable, you're not showing your socks and the sleeve length looks great - what more is there to it?
Fear not I'm not going to take you through every item a tailor looks for when assessing the perfectly fitted suit, but here are a few key areas to focus on that will make all the difference:
2. LapelsLapels are often overlooked when choosing a new Jacket and this is such a shame as they have such an impact on the overall look of your outfit. So there you have it - just three key areas to focus on when shopping for a suit which should be easier to remember and enable you to make some constructive comments on the options in front of you! Instead of coming out to this reaction...
With the explosion of One Direction in the last few months in America all eyes are on this band. Most pop groups have a main person, someone that all the magazines focus, someone that everybody swoons over.
For One Direction that person is Harry Stiles. The fresh faced singer stole the hearts of adoring fans in the UK and U.S.A but here at A Suit That Fits we've got our eye on one thing, it seems that while everyone is falling for Harry, his stylists are in love with tailoring.
Here we see him wearing an over-sized bow tie. This type of neck tie has a youthful, playful feel but paired with a three piece mid grey suit it looks like Harry Stiles is going for a more serious suiting look.
This fitted black shirt shows of his slim waist and worn with a cropped grey Jacket that is cut very slim to show off his modern take on traditional tailoring.
It is great to see such a young gent flying the flag for suits. Harry Stiles loves the very slim tailored suiting. He normal sports a two piece but has been know to wear a waistcoat on occasion.
An adaptation of 'A Servant and Two Masters' by Goldoni it is set in the 1960's and perfect for a modern, British audience. I failed to go and see it while James Corden was in the role of Francis Henshall but the other week I treated myself to a little after work outing with a girlfriend.
I'm inclined to believe that Owain Arthur does an even better job in the lead role. I loved it, the timing and atmosphere was amazing. If you intend to go and see this show I strongly recommend popping to the bathroom in the interval otherwise the level of laughter is likely to cause accidents, a tribute to it's Comedia dell'arte roots.
I loved the way the production focused on taking visual clues from the costume to inform us of the character types and their function within the plot. This was subtle but still visable to the theatre savvy. But probably my favourite aspect of the performance (given my profession) was the attention to detail in the costume of this 60's extravaganza.
Here we see one of the iconic 60's looks; carefully contrasting cloths, trousers with a single pleat and braces with a sports jacket with a slight longer length. In the context of the play it shows the rakish vanity of the character when combined with the slick hair and general demeanour. To bring this look up to date create a slimmer line to your trousers and jacket, cut out the pleats, airing on the slim side with your lapel. White collar and cuffs are really in style at the moment and mixed with a striped cloth for the rest of the shirt, this look is just super!
A note for any ladies reading; the use of suiting separates and carefully mis-matching cloths gives you great versatility. When choosing your suiting go for a few full suits in cloths that will work with each other. Then pick a few stand out cloths for single garments again remembering versatility is the key here. Bold trousers and skirts with simpler blouses and jackets are must this year.
I find the costume of the character Francis utterly charming. A little nod perhaps to the diamond print of the harlequin role that he presides within. Checks and tweeds within suiting have been really winners on the catwalks the past couple of seasons. Brown and blueish tones work beautifully together and something like the Check-875083-2 or our TPO range are all appropriate here. With summer not far off though it might be a good idea to bear in mind the CB range of checks as light weight alternatives.
Looking at other characters within the play we come across the use of crisp white shirts. This look is simple but kept almost comically 60's with this crazy paving tie with a diamond print. A style tip here would be to try not to mix check suiting with bold print ties. Another great tip this play has to offer is the use of classic men's tailoring on women. Provide you are not to full in the chest this can create a bold look. A slim fit dinner jacket can give you great taster of this look, a great advocate of this being Kate Moss (see Hana's blog for more info). These slim line slightly masculine jackets offer great options for pairing with jeans for a more casual look.
One of the reasons the characters costumes are so important is that visual character clues are a must in any comedy of errors. The importance of dress is also true in every day life. A persons first impression of you is often based on the your handshake, your smile and the way you dress. A crisp well cut suit speaks volumes but the devil is in the detail
-A slim lapel can give a slick modern look suggesting you're a forward thinker and like to keep up to date. But be warned if it's wrong for your build (such as a very broad or boxy shape) it may suggest that you follow fashions blindly and need a lot of direction even if you are a hard worker.
-Peaked Lapels look great and ladies can wear them all the time but gents need to be careful as they suggest power and if you're a young guy in a low level job it might come across as arrogance. It might be best to keep it for sports jackets until you've got a few more years under your belt.
- Small, bright contrasting details on a very sombre suit hint to a fun side of your personality. It's a nice detail and subtle enough for a day in the office but be careful, a full set of contrasting button holes is a statement not a detail.
If you have any worries about coming over as 'just another man in a suit' come and see your local Style Advisor. We'll help you pick details that are right for you.
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