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Tag >> pocket squares
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The phenomenal success of English boy band One Direction, after coming third in the 7th series of the X Factor, has culminated in a number one spot in America for their debut album Up All Night.The band, comprising members Niall, Zayn, Liam, Harry and Louis, are now embarking on what looks like a sell out US tour to promote their album.
35 million Twitter followers already, the boys are proving to be a music sensation, and they're also showing a great sartorially individual style in their choice of suits too.Maybe better known for their trendy casual gear, the boys have also been cutting a dash in a series of sharp suits. I have already noticed an increase in popularity in my Oxford, Reading and Camberley studios of their preference for an ultra-fitted cut. In the above picture of the band at an X Factor gig, from left to right, Liam is wearing a charcoal two button suit in a mohair cloth, with narrow notch lapels, straight flapped pockets and narrow flat front trousers .
Harry sports a black one button suit in a wool/silk mix, again with a narrow notch lapel and flat front trousers. Zayn has a black one button suit in a mohair cloth, with a narrow shawl collar, slanted flapless pockets and narrow flat front trousers . Louis has gone for a very on-trend maroon one button suit in a sharkskin cloth, again with a shawl collar and slanted flapless pockets, with narrow flat front trousers. Finally, Niall has chosen a dark charcoal one button suit in a mohair cloth, with shawl collar and contrast black trim, slanted flapless pockets and narrow flat front trouser. They have all chosen white shirts and skinny black ties to complete their outfits. In this picture, Harry has gone for a three piece single breasted suit in a mid grey mohair cloth, with a one button notch lapel jacket, four button waistcoat and flat front trousers, complementing it with a white shirt and oversize black bow tie! Zayn on the other hand has opted for a light grey double breasted suit in a mohair cloth, with peak lapels, straight flapped pockets and contrasting black buttons. All the boys have accessorized their suits with pocket squares. The 'Fab Five' certainly know how to look dapper and trendy on stage!
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One Direction hit the States: http://bit.ly/GIBziS
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Snoop Doggy Dogg is an American rapper, record producer, actor and entertainer, his career started in the early 90s and he got noticed first with his track ain't nothing but a g thang feat. Dr Dre.
Snoop dogg has caught my eye immensely, pictured below in this fantastic 3-piece brown, check tweed with a notched lapels - snoop dogg has gone for the classic mature look and has definitely passed the mark in STYLE.
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Captain America: The First Avenger is based in the 1940s during World War 2. Steve Rogers (Chris Evans) ,who is horrified by the atrocities of the Nazi's in Europe , wants to enlist into the army and serve his country.
As Captain America, Rogers joins forces with his best friend, Bucky Barnes (Sebastian Stan) and Peggy Carter (Hayley Atwell) to wage war on the evil HYDRA organization, that is led by the villainous Johann Schmidt/Red Skull (Hugo Weaving , you may know him as Smith , from the Matix). Chris Evans is no stranger to a dapper suit, as you can see below. He's sporting a black 2-piece and presidential fold pocket square - perfect for the red carpet!
Here Evans wears a great 2-piece grey suit, again with a presidential pocket square.
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We've already seen some great looks from the show, including single breasted suits and double breasted suits. The sharp gents in the show are often sporting pocket squares and sharp tie pins .
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With the recent news of Daniel Craig's marriage to Rachel Weiz, I thought it would be appropriate to take a look at how to achieve the style of James Bond; a character whom Craig has been able to demonstrate his brilliant sartorial prowess in the last two Bond films Quantum of Solace (2008) and Casino Royale (2006).
1. Colour/pattern: A solid Charcoal grey , a subtle check light grey or a subtly patterned navy weave will do well for the Bond uniform.
2. Material: In the novels, 007 often opted for navy blue suits in a light weight worsted wool, this is possibly because most of his assignments seem to take place in gloriously warm locations so I would opt for whichever all year round fabric your budget will allow.
3. The details: This will make your suit a James Bond suit . For a true 007 look, the jacket should have the following: two buttons, standard width notched lapels, four (working or not) cuff buttons, double vents and flapped pockets. Slanted flaps work better on slimmer builds, but ultimately it's personal preference - as is the ticket pocket option. The lining should match the jacket ; Bond does classy not fancy. The cut of the jacket should be one that is strongly tapered into the waist.
The trousers should be straight cut, have side adjusters (Bond only wears braces with dinner jackets and belts in the late 90's), ideally un-pleated and turn ups are optional as some of the Bonds have worn them.
If you favour the three-piece variety, the waistcoat should be single breasted with two pockets and only if attempting to achieve the Sean Connery look in Goldfinger would I recommend the notch lapel, otherwise keep it plain.
4. Other details: The shirt should be either light blue or white in either a plain or very subtle pattern, double cuffs and have no breast pocket. The tie should be subtle, unadventurous and should harmonise with the suit/shirt. For example a Charcoal grey suit, white shirt and dark grey grenadine tie would work. Bond would also never wear a Windsor knot as it is far too garish, stick with a four in hand. Add a crisp white pocket square if wearing a white shirt . Shoes should either be plain black oxfords, or plain black slip-ons.
Click here to see a perfect example of a Bond suit!
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Fast forward 10 years, however, and what a difference - obviously tailored to Daniel's shape and stature, we can see he isn't afraid to don a very slim fitting look. Note, the 8 button waistcoat , only 7 on show with the bottom undone.
Daniel, also, wears a presidential pocket square and a stylish tie pin.
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I once heard it said that it is better to be the only one in a room wearing a tie, than it is to be the only one in a room not wearing a tie.
We are, after all, paid to do the jobs which we do and, whilst our employers may not pay for the clothes which we work in, there is a certain level of expectation that we will be well presented and we do, of course, want to be in with a chance of being promoted or at least being recognised (this is not to say we should not be noticed for our endeavours) and dressing appropriately and dressing to impress, is a tried and tested method.Given the increased popularity of the suit, it is not too difficult these days to find one somewhere that we at least like the look of, even if we can't find one that fits how we'd like it to.
And maybe this is what caused a significant demographic to breathe a sigh of relief (and in some instances laugh a smug laugh as if they always knew the suit was doomed) when smart casual became acceptable in the work place.I'll be honest, if you're a creative, then I don't expect to see you wearing anything but a casual uniform of a t-shirt (increasingly a blazer) and denim or an incredibly well tailored suit (preferably 3 piece) meticulously accessorised with the best finery: pocket handkerchief, tie, tie pin and cuff links. And, for the rest of us, I'll settle for well fitted suits of two or three pieces, a pressed shirt, and at the very least some polished shoes - and if I'm lucky, a tie.But, how to achieve a sartorially considered nation when the majority of men that I tailor suits for do not enjoy shopping, and the majority of women have only encountered personal tailoring when they had their wedding dress made - they are also currently limited to high street fashion outlets for their suits, not great?. Well, in my experience, when you take away the pain and embarrasment of shopping, the men will reveal their inner dandy and ladies will marvel at the choice of cloths available to them!In an ideal world, everyone would have a tailor and put their faith in their tailor to dress them well and dress them appropriately. Now, to some, this may sound like a bygone era but you'd be wrong, as tailors - and moreover affordable tailors - are alive and kicking.So, it may or may not be better to be the only one in a room not wearing a tie -depending on where you work - but it's certainly better to be the only one wearing a well tailored suit, than a poorly tailored one.
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Having a pocket square always adds a touch of sartorial elegance to your suit , so having a range of different folds in your breast pocket is always a good idea. Here, I demonstrate how to fold a three-point pocket square - ideal for a summer party!.
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Season 4 of the wonderful Mad Men was released today and in homage to the advertising men of 60's America I will be discussing their unique style.Don Draper co look undeniably well turned out in their sharp suits which were a staple of the 60's workplace in an age where 'business casual' didn't yet exist.
The suit will follow the contours of the body but will not be nipped aggressively at the waist. A single vent is almost always used, which is customary in American suiting. The trousers are flat fronted which allow for a slimmer cut than those with pleats.The tie and shirt collar will also be proportional in size to the suit lapels. The tie is again narrow, meaning a small knot which is harnessed in a shirt with narrow collar points.Suit colour is also very important. We see fabric choices and colours that are less prevalent today such as petrol blue and shades of brown. These are very distinctive of the era.
Accessories are also significant to achieving this look. Tie clips keep the tie from moving around unnecessarily, while a collar pin will pull the collar points together lifting the knot and providing a desirable arc to the tie.A pocket square can also be seen on many of the characters, invariably it will be white in keepingwith the clean, sophisticated look that is so indicative of the 60's and of Mad Men. .
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A true style icon of mine and the quintessential Italian dandy is, the industrialist heir, Lapo Elkann. A man with such a strong sense of style and character, that it is difficult to compare him with anyone else in the public eye.
He will always stick with classic detailing - a pocket square casually thrown in his pocket, sleeves cut to expose the correct amount of cuff but also be bold enough to wear a double breasted suit in a daring fabric . In fact, this (attempted) style is so prevalent in Italy that it has coined a term - 'sprezzatura' meaning simply, 'studied carelessness'. Few, however, manage to carry this off without looking awkward and affected. Lapo manages to turn this into something special, where we really feel his own personality reflected in his clothes.
To quote the words of the late Sir Hardy Amies, A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care-and then forgotten all about them.
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