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Tag >> notched lapels
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Have you been following the X-Factor this year? We have and we have spotted some serious style from some of the contestants this year.
This Saturday we saw Jahmene Douglas performing sensationally (as per usual) while sporting another dapper look.
A classic dinner suit with a modern twist. Jahmene wears a single buttoned black dinner jacket with satin lapels and slanted pockets with a simple white shirt . A classic and timeless look. However, Jahmene shakes up the classic look by teaming the dinner jacket and shirt with teal trousers , bow tie and pocket square to match. Adding a colourful pair of trousers and accessories to match is an inventive way to add some personalty to a suit .
If wearing bold colours or standing out from the crowd isn't really for you, why not wear a suit in all one colour and use a more subtle colour for the accessories ?
Jahmene Douglas does exactly that during the boot-camp weeks of the X-factor. He wears a grey two buttoned two piece suit with wide notched lapels and flap pockets . He teams this with a white shirt and white pocket square . Another classic and timeless look but maybe one for the dapper Gent that doesn't like to make such a bold statement with his clothing!
We are thoroughly enjoying this years X-factor at A Suit That Fits and we can't wait to see what Jahmene Douglas wears next week. Even if Jahmene doesn't win the X-Factor, he has definitely won the award for best dressed Gent from us!
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Now entering it's third season, Boardwalk Empire has become an international success thanks to it's Award Winning writer (Terence Winter) and director (Martin Scorsese). I must confess that my newly developed love of this programme is all down to my customers - I had no idea how many people had been inspired by their fabulous 1920's attire ! When one thinks of 20's fashion the mind instantly jumps to flapper dresses and spats with very high and wide trousers - but this has given us a more realistic, day-to-day fashion to relate to.
Enoch Nucky Thompson played by Steve Buscemi is our classic lovable rogue, leader of all things underhand and undisputed ruler of Atlantic City - and owner of a spectacular array of suits . If we look at the basics of this first suit you can see a three piece suit , 6 button Double Breasted jacket with peaked lapels and single breasted 6 button waistcoat . Pocket wise you're looking at straight flapped pockets with one right ticket pocket - very appropriate for the era. The double breasted jacket is always going to look wider when left un-buttoned due to the extra fabric but so long as it's well fitted it shouldn't have to look boxey or gaping when open.
If we then move on to some further examples you will notice that the fabric may change, but the principle components have stayed exactly the same. Never one to shy away from a bold fabric these checks and pinstripes certainly allow him to captivate the room.
A slightly rarer appearance of a single-breasted jacket from Nucky shows his obedience to traditional tailoring concepts. Double breasted = peaked lapels , single breasted = notched lapels . And he's even continued this less dramatic look by removing the lapels from the waistcoat and opting for a plain front. Though I think these images really emphasize the difference the peaked collar makes, going a long way to create the dramatic, powerful and masculine demeanour required for such a role. The consistent appearance of his signature red carnation in his buttonhole is just a lovely finishing touch.
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So, you've planned the party, the pimms are on ice, the cucumber sandwiches are cut and you've heard whispered on the winds that June (fingers cross) is going to be a heat wave, but suddenly it dawns on you, what are you going to wear to your Diamond Jubilee garden party?!!! Well fear not us Style Advisors at A Suit That Fits have ideas for every eventuality.
Keeping with the theme of Britannia I've gone with red linen trousers and a navy linen jacket. For the trousers I suggest two pockets on the back and turn ups at the bottom. If you have them cut a little tighter and shorter at the ankle than normal and wear them with loafers you'll get a great summer casual look. With the jacket I'd suggest slanted flapped pockets and a single vent to keep the style modern, going with a single button, continuing the casual theme. Some gents may want to stay with a notched collar but I think seeing as it's the Jubilee be bold and have a peaked. If you wanted to make the jacket really casual a half lined look with red piping would be a great option.
On the other hand, in keeping with our red, white and blue theme you could go with fully lined and have white lined and red piping. 'That's great!' I hear you cry, 'but what about the ladies?' Never fear I have thought of all eventualities. Now, with us ladies I think if the sun does really shine we should pass on jackets and instead go for a fitted shirt, umbrella skirt and a summer boater with a ribbon in red, white and blue tied round it, perfect! I think seeing as it is the Jubilee we shouldn't shy away from colours, have a shirt in a bold red and white stripe and pair it with a skirt in one of our VBC mohairs in royal blue. I wouldn't normally recommend a mohair for ladies but done it an umbrella style it really works.
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Men in Black; Valencia and Hernandez suits: Always slick both footballers look great in well cut slim fitting black suits with notched lapels and finished off with skinny ties.
Javier Little Pea Hernandez looks so smart in this in a midnight blue suit with notched lapels and a subtle herringbone. Teamed with a crisp white shirt and pink tie the colours really go well together.
Ashley Young does the casual smart look pairing jeans with a slim fit jacket and waistcoat. A look that is perfect for hitting the clubs and something that all the ladies love.
Rio looking every bit the stylish playboy. His peaked lapels hint at power with his one button making for longer lines and showing off his slim physic. The black pocket square matched with his black shirt finishes the outfit and tells us that he's a man that means business!
Ryan Giggs looks sharp is this sharkskin slim fit two piece. Again emulating power with his peaked lapels, one button jacket and slanted flapped pockets.
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Since its introduction as the everyday dress for the well-groomed man, the notched lapel suit has been considered the most formal and classic way of dressing. A businessman who needs to create an air of professionalism and conservatism should always stick with the tried and tested notch lapel.
While the misconceptions over the proper usage of the peaked lapel have grown more misleading in modern aesthetics, many fans of traditional tailoring and classic style consider peaked lapels more of an occasion look and not appropriate for a conservative suit. However, the reality is that the peak lapel gives off a certain aura of power that can never really be obtained from a notched. With it's fuller looking edges and arched angles, it can cut across any men's chest to create a broader, stronger silhouette - it's also a little dressier than it's notched counterpart and in line with modern trends for tailored menswear.
So the next time you need your suit to make an impression for that big business meeting, think single breasted peaked lapel - it will make you stand out and leave your more conservative colleagues trying to figure out your next move. If you choose a peaked lapel for your next suit from A Suit That Fits, don't forget to have it hand stitched. This bespoke feature will add a dash of sophistication and savoir faire to your power look. Just remember that hand-stitching looks best on lighter weight fabrics.
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