A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> edinburgh tailor
As many of you may know, I do like to include my clients in my blog content and when Paul and Catherine e-mailed me some stunning pictures of their recent wedding, I couldn't resist.
The wedding was held at Our Dynamic Earth, Edinburgh's local science centre. This was an absolutely perfect venue given Paul's love for computing and all things science.
As you'll all no doubt notice, even Paul's tie was customised to look like a microchip. Paul chose our Kid Mohair Light Grey cloth to build his wedding suit. He went with a three piece, always a favourite of grooms, with peaked lapels (half width), with a two button front, straight pockets with no flaps and a double vent at the rear of the jacket. His lining was the stunning B3 Burgundy with a large paisley design. The waistcoat was designed with five buttons so that it would show even when the jacket was worn. It had a notched base and the back of the waistcoat matching the suit lining.
Paul and Catherine were an absolute delight to work with. Looking at these pictures, it seems that, on the day, everything looked amazing. Guys, I hope you enjoy your honeymoon later this year, and remember, our Mohair is perfect for the warmer climate. You'll still look stylish on the beach.
Bespoke wedding wear at an affordable price.
Whilst we all love to be different from one another, one thing remains the same, we all want a well fitting suit. Unfortunately there are other factors at play and we loose sight of our original goal. How many times have you been swayed by a price tag, or a name, but been bitterly disappointed at some aspect of the garment you've just taken home? 'Sure, it's a lovely cloth, but the jacket is a little tight'.
'It'll do, as long as I don't button it up.' Or, 'Ooh it's Armani, or Hugo Boss, and it's on Sale. I've just got to have it.' Scenarios that happen probably every minute of every day on our high streets.
But the real question is Why?. We are all romanced by the shop windows, the magazine adverts, the TV adverts. We love to wear what the celebrities are seen in. How many of you guys have wanted The Beckham look at some point over the years. You take you hard earned wages to the shops, and you part with it just to be like your idols. You get home, look in the mirror only to find that, whilst it looked fantastic on Mr Beckham, it looks 'okay' on you. Bespoke is the answer to all of your questions. It is the plain and simple truth of the matter. A bespoke tailor will match your skin, hair and eye tones to the cloth that is perfect for you, not Russell Brand.
He or she will take measurements unique to your individual body shape, not Daniel Craig's. They will judge accurately your shoulder and back shape, not that of Ryan Reynolds. When the suit is ready to collect, you will put it on. You will stand in front of that mirror, and look at the person staring back. Then, and only then, will you realise - This is why the celebs look so good. Perfect shoulders, precise sleeve length, waist nipped in at the exact spot your body does. These are all attributes of a perfectly tailored garment. Not something you picked up one day after an hour on the high street. I mean, do you honestly think that Daniel Craig walks into Ralph Lauren, picks up a 40R jacket and 34R trousers, and emerges from the fitting room looking like he's ready for a magazine shoot? The truth is, that what is presented to you in a shop window, or a magazine advert, has been tailored on the model to within an inch of its life. This is what makes you think it'll do the same for you. And this is why you should take your hard earned money to your nearest tailor, and let him work his magic on you.
It really pains me to see so many people on the way to work nowadays with an open neck shirt. What happened? Forgot to finish dressing yourself this morning? And what pains me even more is that many of said people are in high powered roles within their organisations, or are customer facing.
So what's happened? Where's the ?. Maybe it's actually a case of changing attitudes towards the workplace. Maybe it's down to a lack of confidence.
Lack of knowledge perhaps. What tie should I wear? What colour? Stripes? Plain? Confused??? Well let me help you. I have some simple tips on how to choose the right tie for your outfit. Firstly, consider width. If you have a jacket with a narrow lapel, keep the tie narrow. Skinny is still the in thing right now. With so many suits with slim lapels out there, skinny ties are great. A good tip is that your tie should not be wider than your lapel. Try to match width where possible as it can be very complimentary. Chances are, if you're slim, so are your lapels - and so too should your tie be. Width can range from about 1.
75 (Skinny) to 4 (Extra Wide) and does help finish off your outfit. Second rule I tend to stick by, is the 2 out of 3 rule. Now, I'm not saying that you absolutely must follow this one, but I do find that it helps compliment your outfit well. Try to wear a plain tie if your suit and shirt are patterned. A patterned tie with patterned suit and shirt can look very busy. The plain tie will help to tone things down.
Third: Choose your knot carefully. I won't go into too much detail about this point, but I will give you a link to my colleague Rachel's blog Tweak your Collar and Tie to your face shape, which explains it perfectly.
Of course, there are people out there who have great difficultly in finding a tie that suits. Either for the reasons listed above, or because they are simply too tall, or too short to wear ties found in the shops. Well, I have some good news. A Suit That Fits now offer Bespoke Ties. We allow you to choose from our range of silk cloths, select your preferred width, customize with a nice lining colour and finally, tell us your height range. Click here to design your own.
Who would have thought that in a small country such as Scotland, there would be such a difference in tailoring tastes over the cities of Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen. It seems strange to me that, despite being only 45 miles apart, Edinburgh and Glasgow have such different tastes.
may be 130 miles north, and could be excused for having such variance, but the / style differences have really surprised me. In 7 short months, I have met a varied range of people from many different industries and backgrounds.
I love meeting new people and finding out about what they do for a living, or what their hobbies are. I've been surprised at the amount of interests I share with many of my clients too. I love to hear about their style preferences and even more so, the reasons behind them. Some people want to follow trends, some want to buck them. But I think that there are people out there that just want the little details to be a bit different and stand them out from the crowd. Nothing fancy, just something that you'd have to be sartorially minded to spot - like a breast pocket on the right hand side, or no buttonhole on the lapel of the jacket.
Simple, but effective. Edinburgh is the Business City. I have seen more Blue and Grey fabrics chosen here, mainly because many of my clients are building a working wardrobe. Spare trousers are a popular choice with precise measuring featuring more prominently. The trousers have to be spot on, sleeves must show a dash of shirt cuff. Pocket hankies are definitely sought after here. Now, I must add that most of the suits I design with my Edinburgh clients are not Statement pieces. They are smart pieces of kit for the office - sharp lines, often 3 piece , usually navy. But are well fitted to the wearer. Douglas is a great example of this. Aberdeen seems to be the place for the finer fabrics. Most of the clients in the Granite city like to choose Mohair or Wool and Silk mixes. Colour varies here, I have had selections made of most categories in the colour book. I think that given it's reputation as the Granite City, it's residents and workforce prefer to add some colour to the streets and offices.
Many of the Aberdeen clients also prefer a more relaxed fit, rather than a slim fit. It's a much more classic look compared to the central belt. I've also had a number of 3 button requests in the North East too.
Not surprisingly, the most trend-led part of Scotland is Glasgow. Former European City of Culture. There's a very wide ranging clientle in Glasgow. Some like ultra fitted suits, some like Mod styling. The biggest contrast here is that, even people looking for a business suit are a bit more bold and brave in their style choices and colour choices. Herringbone is popular, as is bold pin-striping. Tweed is also often asked for (See Ross, Below) and I do find that the styles being asked for are more in line with current trends. I really enjoy my visits to Glasgow and I do plan to be there more frequently in 2012.
All in all, Scotland is a great place to be as a tailor at the moment. It never ceases to amaze me how many people out there know exactly what they want from their garments. It gives me great pleasure to work with them to create a look that they are happy with. It does require patience to perfect the template, but once that is complete, the ideas keep flowing. Safe in the knowledge that the garments can be created in a style that suits, in a cloth that they have chosen and in a fit that has been perfected through a number of fittings.
Many of you may be very sad that the series of smash hit TV show, Downtown Abbey, has finished. I found the whole programme fascinating - particularly the sartorial aspect and indeed, the use of the White Tie .
(Or Evening Dress) is the most formal of dress types. Consisting of a , , and a white (All white's are to be Marcella* pattern), Traditionally, It was only acceptable to be worn after 6pm.
Nowadays, however, it is allowed before 6pm as long as it is dark outside. White Tie is the preffered option for ceremonies such as state dinners, very formal balls and ceremonial occasions such as evening weddings. When wearing evening tails , dress studs are generally the favoured shirt fronting. Always wear black patent Oxford shoes and never wear a cumberbund if you're wearing a waistcoat - as it'll spoil the look. Also, it is considered cheating if you wear a pre-tied bow tie. Follow this link for handy instructions on how to tie your own. http://bit.ly/howtotieabowtie
*Marcella is a weave that was specifically invented for formal evening wear. It is a rope weave and is made of 2 layers of cotton as opposed to the usual twill weave on 1 layer for standard shirtings.
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