A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> double breasted blazer
Cardiff, and moreover, Wales, has been on my sartorial radar since I moved to Bristol back in January 2010. When we first met, my partner in style, the amazing Saffron Darby, lived and worked in Swansea as senior designer for Toast no less and whilst Saffron has now decamped to Bristol to raise our daughter Grace Blake - whom regular readers will recognise as the purveyor of the 'dribble square' - the Welsh are a very large demographic for Bristol's local tailors.
It wasn't 3 months that A Suit That Fits' first studio outside of London had been open before it was evident that I had a lot of sartorially inclined customers coming over the bridge - and paying for the privilege upon their return to the valleys.
Outrageous! I thought. So we opened an A Suit That Fits tailorstop in Cardiff, first in the city centre and now in the historic Cardiff Bay.I think it's safe to say that wedding suits are the main staple of my tailoring here in the Bay and it's refreshing that so many of the grooms really do take an interest in what they wear on the big day.But seldom do I have the opportunity to make a double breasted suit for a wedding, and being a fan of the DB, what a treat it was to fashion one for patron James for his wedding in Siena. As James prefers a close fitting jib, our TLN cloth was chosen as it has plenty of stretch in it affording the wearer a closer fit but without being restrictive - which is just as well as to show-off a DB suit to full-effect it really must remain fastened at all times; I cannot abide these DB wearers who insist on wearing them unfastened.
wear a single breasted jacket man, ye gads!. James wears his lapel long - as does Bristol's local tailor, as it happens - affording the wearer a more svelte silhouette and avoiding the boxy appearance which DB's are oft associated with.
NB for a time, both double breasted and single breasted jackets were cut with a boxy silhouette but whilst the cut of a single breasted jacket has evolved to be more 'waisted' i.e. narrow in the middle, the db has been slow to follow suit, ahem.The pale grey colour of James' suit is a wedding staple, and as it suits more complexions than any other colour it is not surprising. And whilst I've always maintained that a tailor-made garment is a work in progress until such time as the owner wears it for the first time - after pressing, of course - it is then, and only then, that the dream is realised.I think that the photos of our James' suit proves this point unequivocally and so without further ado I'll leave you to enjoy a shining example of how double breasted can be worn, and, in my humble opinion, should be worn and more often!
Congratulations to the very happy couple..
As the daughter of a pretty 'traditional when it comes to tailoring' father there are certain garments I know and love but long to see refreshed and adapted for the modern gentleman. One such item is the navy blazer.
The popularity of which was brought to my attention when a customer came to see me in requesting the very thing. It is a relatively low-investment as you are not committing to a .
This single item though will effortlessly invigorate your outfit!. For many people this garment still carries the stigma of the wide, loose-fitting, double-breasted blazers of the past (see the image below). If we abandon this style and embrace a more contemporary, slim-fit, single breasted blazer the look can be kept more modern. A standard width notched lapel certainly gives a more casual and timeless look. Opting for single breasted will instantly slim the body and enable the jacket to be worn both open and buttoned. This is a look that can be adapted for all seasons, during the summer wear your blazer with a pair of beige chino, brown leather belt and white or pastel coloured shirt, glass of champagne optional.
In terms of colour you can't go wrong with a classic 100% wool navy cloth such as the twill or matt. If you'd really like to stand out why not try an electric blue mohair or deluxe pinstripe for a truly stunning boating blazer?
It is such a versatile item, you can also make your blazer part of a more casual look, a worn by JLS at the 2012 Brit Awards. I'm a big fan of Orits Williams' contemporary take on the classic blazer using a slim shawl collar with a wool and silk cloth which gives a fabulous sheen to the Jacket.
What better way to celebrate our return from France last week, than with lunch at Babington House, Somerset, with Mr Mrs Jack Wills.and what better setting for the maiden voyage of my new double breasted blazer (DB)?!Having had my first double breasted jacket made last year - a navy cashmere/wool HAB-5, herringbone bought as a suit as it's more cost effective to buy a jacket with trousers, don't you know - I've developed a penchant for wearing the jacket as blazer, more often than not with camel coloured flannel trousers.
The look is a bit preppy, a bit naval - especially when worn with a Breton top - and I really enjoy the high definition contrast between the navy and camel - and I really enjoy the fit of the db, as it's seldom unfastened.
In that regard, It's a little like a replacement to cardigan or sweater in some respects, but a lot more elegant.The inspiration for the latest acquisition, was the last couple of meters of one of A Suit That Fits limited edition cloths - the cloth is a medium to heavy weight multi-coloured puppy tooth check, with shades of red, green and blue running through it - with which it would have been difficult to fashion much from. These special cloths are sourced in London from a supplier to the rag trade since the 1960's!As there was so little of the cloth left I had to be ingenious with the design - sacrificing my trademark working cuffs - but the result was that I incorporated a burgundy velvet contrasting collar, which saved on quite a lot of cloth, and decided not to have a vent.
Having no vent means that, with ones hands in ones pockets, once can feel comfortably ensconced in the blazer, as the posterior cannot protrude. As the background colour of the cloth is pale grey, the blazer teams nicely with my pale grey or indeed blue jeans, which are in turn complimented by my beautiful tan leather Grenson loafers - worn without socks, obviously!If you would like to give the double breasted a try?. I'll see you at Babington House.
The most recent addition to my casual bespoke collection, was inspired by one of our Customers - it may not be obvious to all, but as the title suggests, we style advisors spend more time advising others, than we do designing fantastic looking clothes for ourselves!.
My indigo/navy double breasted blazer, was designed to be worn through autumn and winter, as an alternative to a blouson i.e. a Harrington, style jacket, or cardigan though I intend to wear the buttons fastened at all times to give a closer fit (than my suit jackets), like a cardigan!.
In contrast to my suit jackets, I have cropped the length an inch, and tapered the sleeves, to give it a more casual and fitted silhouette.
It is designed to be worn with jeans - narrow legged and distressed, in my case - but can work equally well with camel coloured slacks - very retro - or even as a suit, in which case I'd suggest a narrow legged trouser, tapering toward the ankle (word to the wise: buying the two items as a suit, is a more cost effective way of buying a jacket and trousers).
I opted for a 4 button, single fastening design on my jacket, as I don't like short lapels, and high fastenings - I'm not a fan of the lines of such a cut - and I find the lower fastening to be more elegant and less boxy (being only 5'9 on a good day, I need all the loft I can get). Also, there appears to be a trend of late for fastening only the top button of double fastening db jackets, which does not appeal to me. I think that if you are going to have a double fastening, then double fasten - this rule obviously does not apply to single breasted 2, 3 button jackets, where only a single fastening is required.
Traditionally, a blazers are cut from heavier cloth, and mine is no exception, being cut from cashmere/wool herringbone (HAB-5), which is beautifully soft, with a comforting weight to it What's nice about a double breasted jacket is that there are so many option with regard fastening and therefore design and also cut; 6 button 4 fastening, 4 button 2 fastening, double vent, no vent etc. etc. If you've yet to treat yourself this Christmas, why not consider something different, smarten up your old jeans, and revitalise your casual ensemble.
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