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Tag >> black tie
There has been a major announcement recently which has shaken the Batman fan base to it's core. That's right, Ben Affleck has been named as the man behind the; ahem, Suit, in the new Batman Vs Superman movie.
Hollywood hasn't seen shock waves like this since it was announced that pretty-boy, Australian actor, Heath Ledger, would play The Joker - which subsequently became on of the greatest portrayals of any movie villain in Hollywood history, ever.
Henry Carvill will continue to portray Superman (in my opinion, the only REAL superhero in the world. Why? Because he was actually born with his powers. The rest have been created/mutated). Many people expected Christian Bale to reprise the role for one more film, but producers have shocked film fans all over the world with this announcement. Now, Batman happens to be my favourite superhero of all. To think that a very wealthy man would put to use his resources to help rid the world of evil is something we can only dream of. But the thing I like most about Batman is that, when he's not wearing the magnificent Batsuit, Bruce Wayne is one snappy dresser.
Very often seen in Dinner Suit at the many lavish gatherings he holds, and always immaculately dressed when inside the walls of Wayne Enterprises. Bruce Wayne wins the fashion battle of the superheroes hands down. In the past, we've seen Michael Keaton, Val Kilmer, George Clooney and Christian Bale pull this off to the highest standards. Will Ben Affleck impress to the same degree? Well lets take a look. More often photographed at the various awards ceremonies, Ben Affleck seems to be more than accustomed to the formal look. Sometimes keeping it very classic, with satin lapels and single button fastening and other times, he seems to add some little individual touches like leather lapels, with hand-stitched detail or, leather edged pocket flaps. When not in a formal situation, we see a mixture of colours used in his wardrobe from Black to Navy to Light Grey . His palette is always well chosen and complimented by his shirt and tie choices. So, does Ben Affleck have what it takes? I think the pictures speak for themselves with regards to the Bruce Wayne role. As for Batman, well lets just wait and see.
Benedict Cumberbatch looks dodgy as Julian Assange in the just-released trailer for The Fifth Estate, a movie about Wikileaks' publishing of US state secrets. With his distinct, sometimes mismatched style, Assange himself might one day be a contender for the subject of this blog (remember his black shirt and jacket with a red-tie look?), but in the meantime let's talk about Cumberbatch.
Already something of an acting legend thanks to his stellar performances in , and (comparisons to Alan Rickman are now ubiquitous), what's 's record in the style stakes? Let's take a look.
Possibly thanks to his height (he's exactly 6'0) and despite being rather strange-looking according to some, Cumberbatch is a natural clothes-horse and looks especially good in a suit (there are even blogs on Tumblr devoted to pictures of him in one). His relationship to Spencer Hart, the Savile Row tailors, is unclear, but he's been been spotted in their creations numerous times, including the London Star Trek premiere, the South Bank Sky Arts Awards and the Golden Globes in Los Angeles. He's even modeled for them at London Collections. Obviously a man, like us, who appreciates bespoke tailoring, my favourite looks by Cumberbatch include his 2011 BAFTAs appearance (top image), in which he Goth-ed it up with what looked like a black velvet jacket, black tie and hair all ruffled and Romantic.
Another look to be proud of was his appearance at the 2012 BAFTAs (above) where he wore a midnight-blue tux with black lapels and, again, a black tie. Evidently Cumberbatch enjoys dressing dark and likes even more to pair very dark blues and blacks. We do not disapprove. Take a leaf out of Cumberbatch's book and try out some ultra-dark fabrics, like the textured blacks, from A Suit That Fits.
Although it's nothing more than a long piece of fabric , the tie is an elemental accessory when it comes to the creation of a sublime suited gentleman. Simply adorning the front of a shirt and thus being an undeniable focus of attention for the entire look, this simple piece is one of the most pervasive pieces in menswear.
Over the years, the classic has been reproduced into array different and distinct forms- from the colour, to the , the length and even the width.
On the matter of the suitable time to wear a skinny tie , I'd sincerely say that this accessory can be worn for both formal and casual occasions. When it comes to casual situations, the thin tie can be paired with a simple button-up with either the sleeves rolled-up or under a dashing contemporary blazer . Thus, for a more laidback look, I recommend that you knot the skinny tie in a loose manner that eschews excessive formality while embracing an easy-going nature. When it comes to formal attire, the skinny tie should be worn with a tailored suit in order to emphasise a more graceful profile. It should also be tied in a tight fashion that reflects the formality of the occasion.
Need more advise? Book an appointment to see one of our Style Advisors.
Many of you may be very sad that the series of smash hit TV show, Downtown Abbey, has finished. I found the whole programme fascinating - particularly the sartorial aspect and indeed, the use of the White Tie .
(Or Evening Dress) is the most formal of dress types. Consisting of a , , and a white (All white's are to be Marcella* pattern), Traditionally, It was only acceptable to be worn after 6pm.
Nowadays, however, it is allowed before 6pm as long as it is dark outside. White Tie is the preffered option for ceremonies such as state dinners, very formal balls and ceremonial occasions such as evening weddings. When wearing evening tails , dress studs are generally the favoured shirt fronting. Always wear black patent Oxford shoes and never wear a cumberbund if you're wearing a waistcoat - as it'll spoil the look. Also, it is considered cheating if you wear a pre-tied bow tie. Follow this link for handy instructions on how to tie your own. http://bit.ly/howtotieabowtie
*Marcella is a weave that was specifically invented for formal evening wear. It is a rope weave and is made of 2 layers of cotton as opposed to the usual twill weave on 1 layer for standard shirtings.
The party to be (and be seen) at this weekend took place at Battersea Evolution - the winter ball hosted by Elton John and Grey Goose. The annual black tie event seeks to raise awareness and support for the incredible global work carried out by the Elton John Aids Foundation.
As a volunteer for the foundation I was lucky enough to attend and enjoy a fantastic evening of glamour, fundraising, entertainment, extraordinary food courtesy of the world's best restaurant 'El Bulli' and to mingle with a plethora of famous faces.
With Elton John and David Furnish at the helm the guest list was packed with A-list friends and supporters. As a result it was a veritable feast of fashion, exquisite ball gowns, immaculate tailoring and of course the occasional paparazzi-pleasing curveball - Jamie Winston's sheer gown a prime example.
Not to be outdone by the ladies, the likes of Benedict Cumberbatch, Boris Becker, Marcus Waring, Giles Deacon, Jonathan Saunders and David Walliams personified dapper. Velvets, twills and similarly plush fabrics made a numerous appearances within the tailored offerings, either in full or as feature lapels, providing an opulent look that's ideal for the winter party circuit. Double breasted dinner jackets, as chosen by David Furnish and Graham Norton provided a classic and sophisticated look. Single breasted jackets gave a contemporary and flattering silhouette while finishing touches such as pocket squares, cufflinks and tie pins made for essential elements for all the gentlemen.
Here's an insider tip for completing your A-list party look...a key trend at the ball was the Patent shoe - literally lighting up the carpet, these shiny numbers inject fun and glitz to your party look. If you're feeling particularly brave you could follow in Benedict's Louis Vuitton footsteps and opt for silver sparkle and glitter.
Take a look through the images to see what the celebs (and this non-celeb) wore and for more information on the foundation's work visit www.ejaf.com.
Benedict Cumberbatch (velvet suit, sparkly LV shoes) Lee, Simon, Duncan (Blue). Complete with patent shoes. An injured Boris Becker (Who asked me to straighten his tie ready for the press) Hosts David Furnish and Elton John Joe Jonas - I particularly liked his unconventional tie choice. Notice the patent shoes.
Funnyman David Walliams in a textured jacket and patent shoes.
A Suit That Fits blogger Neil Walsh
Today when we are invited to black tie events it is hard to imagine that this simple smart jacket that we are encouraged to don has its lineage way back in the frock coat of the 1700s. Now that, is withstanding fashion!.
Georgian frock coatIn the late 1700s the frock was adapted into what is now known as the tailcoat for both comfort and style. The frock coat's long skirt was cut away to make it more practical for riding and by the end of the century all that was left was the rear of the skirt divide in half by a long centre vent.
This new coat became know as the tailcoat and was used for both day and evening wear. Top hat and tails But by the 1860's men were looking for a more relaxed attire that was still formal enough to wear to dinner. The main push behind this fashion was the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII and his tailor, Henry Poole Co. This could be seen as the real connection to today's dinner jacket, one that is surely visible today
It is interesting to see that even the dinner jacket of today is effect by those of the past. An example of this is the lapels that owe themselves to this jacket. The two most accepted styles both hark back to the jacket's parentage; the shawl collar from the smoking jacket and the peak lapel from the tailcoat. Looking at a garment's details you can see its history right there walking around in 21st century!
A fine bit of sci-fi hook'em, the old Wild West meets Aliens from outer-space well some one had to do it and the action skills of Harrison and Daniel are put through their paces....
Harrison Ford now looking older, but more refined cuts a strident figure through the film and is sartorially kitted out in the longer riding jacket of the day teamed with a and not that far removed from the .
In everyday life Harrison has changed his style slightly to encompass the lightening of his dark locks and beard.
Now with his silver hair he can wear the darker tones more strikingly as here with a black suit , black shirt and black silk tie.
Daniel Craig on the other hand sill has his darker hair and as such chooses from a wider range of colours for his everyday attire, grey , blue and brown being his preferred choices.
While in the film he wears a a darker black 3-piece, like Harrison.
All-in-all the film looks good fun and a fair vehicle for both Harrison and Daniel's action scenes.
Last weekend, I watched the film Heartbreaker (a French comedy about a man who breaks up couples for a living), and despite the glorious scenery, and a star turn from Vanessa Paradis, one scene really stood out - of the dashing lead, Romain Duris, strutting through an airport, clad in a white suit , sunglasses and a black shirt .
Maybe it was the swagger, the French insouciance, or his handsome face, but I found myself falling in love with his look and that . I am not alone in my love of a pale - the John Lennon wore on the cover of the Beatles' Abbey Road album was recently sold at auction in Connecticut for $46,000.
But what is it about white suits that are so iconic?. White suits to me scream stealth wealth of the playboy in the Med on his super-yacht, a high roller strolling the streets of Monte Carlo, or a distinguished businessman on his laptop in the upper class lounge. Or they remind me of old world travel to exotic climes - explorers on Safari, or diplomats keeping cool by sipping gin and tonics in the colonies. But you don't have to have a six figure salary or an expedition under way to wear a white suit . Mere mortals can look relaxed and keep cool whilst staying smart if they dare to wear white you just need to know how.
Here are my do's and don'ts for trying white suits this Spring: Dodo it in linen . Linen is best material for a white suit it will keep you cool and comfy but looks smart if you're trying to blag yourself an upgrade. Plus white doesn't look as glaringly bright in this fabric. Dobe neutral. Avoid wearing your white suit with a black shirt or you'll end up looking like a hotel waiter or seventies disco nightmare. Pair your white suit with neutral tones like camel, beige and cream. Dosteer clear of dark drinks.
If you have a penchant for red wine, black coffee or tomato sauce, then you'll need to be on 'stain watch' even the most agile of men can have a clumsy moment! If you do have a spillage, small stains can be washed out with a touch of fizzy seltzer water. Don't wear to work.
Unless you're having a dress down day, bright white suits are too loud for an office environment. If you want to lighten up in the summer, go for pale grey , off white, beige or cream linen for work. Don'twrite off a white tuxedo.
If you avoid seventies shapes (no wide legs please, you aren't John Travolta) a white tux is an original look for a formal event. Wear a white shirt underneath, but go for a black tie. Dowear to your wedding.
White tie is the most formal evening dress code, and, like black tie, may only be worn after 6pm (morning dress being the appropriate dress for afternoon formal occasions). It is worn to events such as balls, operas, state banquets etc.
The most frequent wearers of white tie are probably classical musicians, for whom such attire is commonly worn to perform in. The requirements for White Tie are strictly defined, and are as are follows.
White cotton with a stiff white marcella or boiled cotton front, single (not double!) link cuffs (rather tricky find!), stiff wing tip collar and black, white or diamond stud fasteners.
The TieWhite (obviously!) cotton Marcella Bow Tie
As for Black Tie, a dress waistcoat (but not a cummberbund) is of course required to smooth over the edge of the shirt and the trouser waistband! The traditional evening waistcoat has a low-buttoning design to conceal the trouser waist and the suspenders without obscuring the formal shirt's elegantly decorated bib. It is also notable for being dressed with lapels and has double-welted flapless pockets, to hold (if you have one!) a pocket watch. For White Tie, waistcoat should be made with white cotton marcella with three mother-of-pearl buttons - all of which should be fastened (unlike for non-formal waistcoats). The edge of the waistcoat should not extend beyond the edge of the tailcoat.
Trousers and SuspendersThe correct trousers for White Tie are 'fishtail' trousers that sit on the waist (rather than the hips) and have a high, split back with buttons to which the suspenders are fastened. The trousers should be in the same black fabric as the jacket and have a double stripe of either silk satin or grossgrain ribbon (matching the jacket lapels).
The JacketBlack wool tailcoat with shawl or peaked lapels of silk satin or grossgrain; the cut front reaches the waist and covers the waistcoat while the tails should not fall below the knees. The jacket has silk covered button on both breasts but is never fastened
The CoatChesterfield overcoat, Inverness Cape or Opera Cloak in cashmere, velvet or satin.
SocksBlack silk ribbed knee high socks; these are available in departments store such as Harrods and Selfridges and apparently the best are made by Pantherella.
HatThe correct hat to wear to a white tie function is a top hat. It is optional, but should be worn with with a coat or cloak.
Scarf and GlovesBoth in white silk
CaneBlack, optional (but certainly fun)
ShoesThe shoes required are a bit of a curiosity - black opera pumps with a grossgrain bow
Handkerchief and/or boutonierreWhite linen; gardenia
OtherMinature medals, neck riband and Sash
As you can see, full white tie is certainly an adventure in dressing, and something that, if attempted, must be done right - for if you are wearing it, you can be sure that you will be in the kind of company who will notice if it's wrong!
Although modern black tie is the most formal outfit that the majority of gentlemen ever wear, a dinner jacket was once the most informal option for evening wear, traditional white tie attire of tails and a white waistcoat being the only acceptable choice for formal evening occasions.
The first 'dinner jacket' was created in 1860, when Henry Poole Co. crafted a short smoking jacket for the Prince of Wales to wear to informal dinner parties as an alternative to white tie dress.
Throughout the 20th Century, what constitutes 'black tie' continued to evolve (most notably the invention of the cummerbund) to the point where the modern definition of the dress code is quite flexible. The most popular combination of black jacket, cummerbund and bowtie of course being immortalised by James Bond, the dress codes' most well-known proponent. Modern black tie can be worn for a variety of formal and semi-formal evening events taking place after 6pm. The dinner jacket is almost always black, but it doesn't have to be. Midnight blue is a very stylish and less common choice - an excellent example being our version here, worn for an evening Winter wedding - and white is acceptable for tropical climes.
The jacket should either have a one-button single breasted, or 4 button 2 fastening double breasted front, a shawl or peaked collar and silk satin or grosgrain covered lapels, pocket flaps and buttons - but I also love velvet rather than satin for an unexpected contemporary touch. Some modern jackets have notched lapels but I personally do not advise this style for evening. The shirt must be white with double cuffs and a wing collar, but aside from that the style can be quite flexible. Pin-tucked fronts and covered buttons are acceptable, as are marcella bib-fronted styles with studs as worn for white tie.
Unlike for white tie, split-back trousers with suspenders are not required. Regular black trousers with a satin or grosgrain side seam will suffice, but I would strongly advise choosing no belt loops, no back pockets and vertical side pockets for a clean look
It seems that these days cummerbunds - which have their origins in British Indian Military dress - are more popular than waistcoats for black tie. They are worn with the pleats facing upwards, traditionally in the same fabric as the facings on the jacket. Strictly speaking, the cummerbund should be black but for slightly less formal occasions, dark red and other jewel tone silks are acceptable - A Suit That Fits now makes beautiful bespoke cummerbunds in a variety of shades. If you choose a waistcoat, a low-cut U or V-shaped, double or single breasted black or white version can be worn
Black patent or highly polished Oxfords or brogues; black fine wool or silk socks.
The standard and often the only acceptable tie to wear with a dinner jacket is of course a black silk bow tie, in either satin or grosgrain. For less formal occasions, you may get away with a dark jewel-coloured bowtie - only you can be the judge of what is acceptable for your particular event! We now also do bespoke silk bowties, so you'll have no concerns over fit.
The pocket squareWhite handkerchief in linen, silk or cotton must be worn
Scarf and glovesWhite silk
TimepieceTraditionally, visible watches are not worn with formal dress, as timekeeping is not a priority. However, a pocket watch or slender, plain wristwatch may be worn.
Cufflinks and studsGold, silver, mother-of-pearl or onyx - we stock a variety of suitable options.
Most people hire black tie as required but there is nothing sloppier and more unbecoming than eveningwear that doesn't properly fit - so it's best to make the investment and and go bespoke. Here at A Suit That Fits we can create bespoke dinner jackets, waistcoats, shirts and dinner accessories in almost any style you desire - visit the dinner jacket style wizard to get started and create your perfect garment!
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