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Tag >> bespoke waistcoat
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It's been quite some time since I've seen such a stunning display and array of gentleman's dinner suits! Those attending this year's GQ Awards Ceremony in London provided quite the sartorial feast into which I most happily delved.
The use of a matching collar to the jacket but contrasting to the peaked lapels really gives some striking lines and shape to the overall outfit. I like how the skinny tie and satin buttons on the waistcoat, again bring out the darker black satin. With such a toned, slim physique a four button waistcoat looks really sharp and shows off a muscular chest, very tastefully!. Now on the completely opposite end of the scale we have Jimmy Carr David Walliams looking simply superb in their complimentary velvet dinner jackets. Again they've both gone for a single breasted, one button jacket with peaked satin lapels.
The smoking jacket style gives an elegant opulence that is finished perfectly with the addition of a black satin bow-tie. fabulous!. If you like the idea of a velvet dinner jacket but don't quite have the confidence to go for a bold Maroon or Green- why not stick to black like David Gandy? He's opted for a textured velvet jacket with satin shawl collar. The use of velvet really creates the look of a lounge suit. I can just picture the over-sized brandy glass being swirled in his hand! Needless to say a flawless outfit choice by Gandy.
The last time I saw Tinie Tempah he was arriving at the Olympic Closing Ceremony in a beautiful Phantom Series II Drophead Coupe! His recent entrance was no less exceptional with a shawl collar dinner suit, though unlike the previous suits he's gone for, this being a dinner suit he had flapless pockets. Tinie has gone for a cloth with a diagonally stripe in the weave, reminicent of a grosgrain and an overside bow-tie.
The key to the dinner suit is without doubt the satin lapel and flapless pockets. By keeping these two details constant you can really be creative with the choice of cloth, maintaining an incredibly dapper look!
Having been voted the Sexiest Man Alive in 2011 it makes sense that Bradley Cooper should look good in a suit. He stood out in his almost retro style dinner suit! The choice of a six button double breasted jacket is relatively unusual in today's fashions and the extra-wide lapels really remind me of the classic 40's/50's suits. Regardless, Cooper pulled this look off and definitely showed us that double breast is definitely not dead and buried.
As bizarre as it may be to think of winter already, this is the time to start thinking about evening wear for the festive season. Up in Manchester I've already seen an influx of orders for dinner suits and overcoats. So if you've got any special events coming up and fancy taking a look at some cloths just book in at any of our studios or have a play online.
As bizarre as it may be to think of winter already, this is the time to start thinking about evening wear for the festive season. Up in Manchester I've already seen an influx of orders for dinner suits and overcoats. So if you've got any special events coming up and fancy taking a look at some cloths just book in at any of our studios or have a play online.
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With Rachel now covering Oxford and Reading the City Road team has had a bit of a re-shuffle. The City Road girls, me and Rach are only together two days a week and in honour of this we decided to collaborate on a blog, me on the words, Rach on the pics.
Our normal turn around is 6-8weeks plus fittings so even if you are still swanning around in your light grey suit and shades don't leave your Autunm option to the last minute. My favourite time of year is Autunm, the evenings have only just started to get dark and the colours are brilliant, perfect inspiration for your suiting designs.
Me and Rach have come up with three outfit ideas to get you started. First up, 'A Classic Three Piece with an edge.'
This is a great outfit for the more classic gent. The use of a contrast collar, pocket flaps and waistcoat give it that extra special something. The contrasting colour choice can be as wild or as subtle as you like. For this design we've gone with FLA-26, a grey heavy weight wool and cashmere cloth contrasted with HAB-2; a light brown herringbone cloth, also a heavy weight wool and cashmere. This is a real winner for Autumn and an idea that can be adapted for all seasons, events and occasions.
Fashion Forward suiting
Now, if you want something a little more on trend but still subtle, concentrate on your detailing. It is said that menswear is all about the details, something quite small can make all the difference. Again we've gone with a herringbone;HAB-3A, a grey wool and cashmere. The HAB's are such great cloths for the Autumn and can be really jazzed up with a splash of bright colour. With this outfit we've gone with straight flapless pockets with an extra ticket pocket all edged in red velvet. The red theme is carried on through to the cuff and lapel buttonhole stitching as well as a fushia lining.
Wild Autumn Oranges
Sometimes, classic and trendy are not what you want, sometimes, you want to walk into a room and make everyone go, wow! Our Sharkskin 5603-6 is a bronze cloth with a tonic weave that can do that. Keep the design very simple with a notched collar, slanted flapless pockets and straight leg trousers. With a really simple design you can afford to add a silk orange tie and really turn heads. The main thing to remember is that although suiting has a strong connection to the world of the nine to five it does not have to be dull. Tailoring is all about beautiful garments and amazing details.
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Planning a wedding is a challenge, ask any one, but it can become even harder when you're instructed to stick to a theme. Hands up guys if you've ever been faced with 'sticking to the theme' for either your own or a friends wedding? Or indeed if you are currently faced with such a hurdle and all you want is a classic stylish suit that fits like a dream and you can maybe wear again? The desire to fulfil both the role of wedding suit and future use is becoming increasingly important to the dapper chap as the purse strings are pulled ever tighter.
My quick fix guide will hopefully give you a few ideas to make sure the theme is met and you've got a suit you love for however long you want it. Remember, sometimes thinking out side the box can lead to stunning results. This week I'm looking at 'Reds and pinks.'. Pink and Red
This is a lovely option if you want to keep your suit classic. Go for the contrast detailing on the button holes and a bold red splash of paisley in the lining. This option looks fantastic with the mid to dark greys or black. If you wanted to be bolder with your pink theme choose the orchid lining and slip a hot contrast colour in for added fun. When using lighter pink and red tones you can also happily play with the lighter greys.
For something really stunning go with the the image below. The mixture of both a tailcoat and waistcoat in red tones is kept classic with grey trousers and a white shirt. It's got an amazing Ascot-esk feeling and for future use you could get the lounge jacket to match.
If you going for a more subtle look you could go with a light grey two piece suit with red melton. This way you wedding suit can more easily morph into an events or work suit.
One of my clients really pulled off a more classic interpretation of the red theme by sticking with burgundy tones:
Mark really shined in his suit on his wedding day. He was a little worried at first but now he really loves it. A great outfit for versatility; the jacket works well with jeans for casual honeymoon wear and it looks good with a floral Hawaiian shirt, although I did promise Mark I wouldn't put up that picture.
Mark really shined in his suit on his wedding day. He was a little worried at first but now he really loves it. A great outfit for versatility; the jacket works well with jeans for casual honeymoon wear and it looks good with a floral Hawaiian shirt, although I did promise Mark I wouldn't put up that picture.
So, reds and pinks are a relatively easy one but getting the balance right is very important. If you really don't suit bright reds as a colour pick on softer shades and blend tones rather than having perfect matches. Having everything in just three shades can be harsh on the eye and while you do want to follow the theme, you don't want to look as if you are the theme.
As for Zombie themes, it's not something I'd advice but a background level of red works really well!
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With the explosion of One Direction in the last few months in America all eyes are on this band. Most pop groups have a main person, someone that all the magazines focus, someone that everybody swoons over.
He generally wears a very smart slim cut Jacket with a slim lapel detail and pocket square with chinos. This is a good look for someone of Harry's slight build. Slim lapels and skinny ties look on narrow shoulders, a style that can get lost on the broader gent.
Here we see him wearing an over-sized bow tie. This type of neck tie has a youthful, playful feel but paired with a three piece mid grey suit it looks like Harry Stiles is going for a more serious suiting look.
This fitted black shirt shows of his slim waist and worn with a cropped grey Jacket that is cut very slim to show off his modern take on traditional tailoring.
It is great to see such a young gent flying the flag for suits. Harry Stiles loves the very slim tailored suiting. He normal sports a two piece but has been know to wear a waistcoat on occasion.
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Well, this year has already given us a glimpse of summer, and that can mean only one thing, time to lighten up our wardrobes in the hope that we reach those temperatures again. When it comes to suiting, we really should be pushing the heavy wools to the back and bringing out the light weight wools and linens.
If you're heading off on holiday, or just want something more casual, try our Linens. There are some fantastic colours on offer this year. Have a look at my Linen Suiting blog to see some ideas. Of course, the three piece can be just as useful in summer as it is in winter. Think about leaving your jacket in the office when out for lunch. Wear your waistcoat instead. This will maintain the ultra smart appearance, whilst still keeping you cool. I've seen many of Edinburgh 's streets recently swarming with blokes who are cutting a dash with a waistcoat and trouser combo as well as a few famous faces.
Two of A Suit That Fits favourites do this look in the own way; Gary Barlow goes with his signature high chested six button waistcoat with a slight lossening of the tie to give it just a dash of the casual. David Beckham goes for a light grey waistcoat and trousers, worn with a tie but rolling up his sleeves to give his otherwise smart look a sporty feel. Colour also is an important factor when getting a new summer suit. I wouldn't advice a light grey or cream linen suit in the winter for instance but when the sun shines they are perfect colours. Light grey is a great shade for the office and cream for casual. It has never really gone out of style, proven by the image above. On the very far left we have Robert Redford in his younger days showing that separates are the way to go in his double breasted cream waistcoat with lapels and matching trousers. In the middle is Brad Pitt in a more relaxed outfit, wearing a two piece cream suit with an open collar shirt and last but not least we have P Diddy. He is wearing a two button notched collar, linen, cream suit with silver pocket square.
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On Monday night, I attended the seventh annual Scottish Fashion Awards in Glasgow, hosted by Style Icon Alexa Chung. It was a glitzy and glamorous spectacle but, with Swarovski as a sponsor, who would expect any less! I had the pleasure of meeting a whole host of interesting people from across the industry, but more importantly, I met a few dapper ladies and gents sporting suits, separates and tuxedos.
Next, we have a very daring double breasted jacket with eight buttons, three fastening, worn with a pair of light grey flannel trousers, again, finished off with a pocket square in a presidential fold. Third from the left is a classic two piece in light grey pinstripes, worn with slim lapels to give width to the shoulder line. Last but not least a modern two piece charcoal grey suit with slim lapels, worn with a skinny tie. Next, was James Robert Faulkener. Edinburgh's very own Rogue Milliner.
James' designs are fantastic, but not as fantastic as his plush velvet tuxedo, with shawl collar in satin, complimented by his waistcoat and scarf. Also in this picture, we see another velvet jacket with notched, split lapel in suit cloth, edged with satin.
In this final picture, I managed to snap a lady in a tuxedo, rare, but a great look. With a single fastening, satin edging, and full satin collar (rather than suit cloth). It really is a stand out tuxedo. Our gent is wearing a classic peaked collar tuxedo, with a one button fastening and straight flapped pockets. Pocket squares were really prevalent on the night.
All in all, it was a brilliant event with guest appearances from Dionne Blomfield, Millie Mackintosh of Made in Chelsea, Karen Gillan of Doctor Who fame and New York stylist Derek Warburton, who sported a striking pink turban. Congratulations to all the winners, and I'm sure you'll all be household names in the future.
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Men in Black; Valencia and Hernandez suits: Always slick both footballers look great in well cut slim fitting black suits with notched lapels and finished off with skinny ties.
Javier Little Pea Hernandez looks so smart in this in a midnight blue suit with notched lapels and a subtle herringbone. Teamed with a crisp white shirt and pink tie the colours really go well together.
Ashley Young does the casual smart look pairing jeans with a slim fit jacket and waistcoat. A look that is perfect for hitting the clubs and something that all the ladies love.
Rio looking every bit the stylish playboy. His peaked lapels hint at power with his one button making for longer lines and showing off his slim physic. The black pocket square matched with his black shirt finishes the outfit and tells us that he's a man that means business!
Ryan Giggs looks sharp is this sharkskin slim fit two piece. Again emulating power with his peaked lapels, one button jacket and slanted flapped pockets.
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The phenomenal success of English boy band One Direction, after coming third in the 7th series of the X Factor, has culminated in a number one spot in America for their debut album Up All Night.The band, comprising members Niall, Zayn, Liam, Harry and Louis, are now embarking on what looks like a sell out US tour to promote their album.
35 million Twitter followers already, the boys are proving to be a music sensation, and they're also showing a great sartorially individual style in their choice of suits too.Maybe better known for their trendy casual gear, the boys have also been cutting a dash in a series of sharp suits. I have already noticed an increase in popularity in my Oxford, Reading and Camberley studios of their preference for an ultra-fitted cut. In the above picture of the band at an X Factor gig, from left to right, Liam is wearing a charcoal two button suit in a mohair cloth, with narrow notch lapels, straight flapped pockets and narrow flat front trousers .
Harry sports a black one button suit in a wool/silk mix, again with a narrow notch lapel and flat front trousers. Zayn has a black one button suit in a mohair cloth, with a narrow shawl collar, slanted flapless pockets and narrow flat front trousers . Louis has gone for a very on-trend maroon one button suit in a sharkskin cloth, again with a shawl collar and slanted flapless pockets, with narrow flat front trousers. Finally, Niall has chosen a dark charcoal one button suit in a mohair cloth, with shawl collar and contrast black trim, slanted flapless pockets and narrow flat front trouser. They have all chosen white shirts and skinny black ties to complete their outfits. In this picture, Harry has gone for a three piece single breasted suit in a mid grey mohair cloth, with a one button notch lapel jacket, four button waistcoat and flat front trousers, complementing it with a white shirt and oversize black bow tie! Zayn on the other hand has opted for a light grey double breasted suit in a mohair cloth, with peak lapels, straight flapped pockets and contrasting black buttons. All the boys have accessorized their suits with pocket squares. The 'Fab Five' certainly know how to look dapper and trendy on stage!
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Unless you are a groom, there is no better time of year than winter to consider making the transition to a three piece suit - by which I mean adding a waistcoat, not an extra pair of trousers - and with temperatures threatening to hit -10 this week, now is the time to gird oneself against the cold!.
For those who believe waistcoats are for the older generation, I give you Plan B (the rap star and actor), who has incorporated a breast pocket into his - enabling him to sport a dapper pocket square - and wears it as jacket. And for those who believe it is for the younger generation, I give you Robert Vaughn, now in his 70's, who as Albert Stroller in Hustle wears a double breasted waistcoat cut straight across the bottom - a design we do not often see since King Edward VII infamously unfastened his bottom button, and the notched base waistcoat was created.
In fact, it was only last week that I was introduced to Hustle, yet I was quick to appreciate what a dash Robert Vaughn cuts in his three piece suit - as he always has; whether an action man in The Man From U.N.C.L.E, a nasty mayor in Steve McQueens Bullit, or as a conman in Hustle.
However I digress, what is interesting about Robert Vaughn's style is his uncommon double breasted style waistcoat, cut straight across the bottom, not very common these days. What this means (and I'm not saying that Robert Vaughn is sporting his for this reason), is that the buttons are not running down the middle of ones stomach, or paunch, and so will show no signs of 'stress'. Additionally the straight bottomed design puts the hem in line with the trouser waistband, so it is not easy to see how much the bottom of ones waistcoat protrudes in front of ones trousers, genius!
Anyway, I cannot extol the virtues of the humble waistcoat enough; it dresses up a two piece suit, separates the men from the boys when ones jacket is removed, and can even be worn as a means to an end - every snooker player that ever prowled around a table, can't be wrong! Moreover, with another cold snap looming, and a harsh winter predicted, nobody in their right mind is going to give the cold shoulder to the idea of an extra layer.
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Here at A Suit That Fits.com we are always working to improve our products and services - at the moment, our IT manager Vitaly is hard at work on a new-and-improved version of our clever suit designing tool, the suit wizard.
Last Thursday, Product Development Manager Mighel and myself were discussing potential improvements to the wizard. Mighel, high on the possibilities that a new wizard could bring, came up with idea for a 'Pimp my Suit' page at the end of the suit wizard. The page would provide options for adding all the little extra details that are often overlooked when going through the existing wizard - pocket options, contrast stitching options, lapel width options and the like. Users could add just a few from a list of extra attributes or simply click a large 'pimp' button at the bottom of the page to add the whole lot in one go.
While it is unlikely the a 'pimp' button is going to make the cut for the beta version of the suit wizard, the existing wizard still contains many little opportunities to make your suit a little more individual and rise it above the suiting norm. Keep reading to find out how. JacketThe first thing to do, if you have not already done it, is to add a rich coloured lining to your jacket. My favourites are those in the mystique range, especially the royal purple (AE106), and the blue paisley jaquard (B1 Navy).Once you've got your coloured lining, you'll definitely want to add a touch of that colour to the exterior of the jacket. Chose from adding colour to cuff buttonholes, lapel button holes or (for ladies), the lapel edge.Next thing to add is some interest to the lapels. For those who want to keep it classic, add a handstitched edge; the more daring could choose a narrow or a wide lapel. For a ladies suit, how about a contrast lapel and collar made out of one of our luxurious velvets?. Then the pockets - we have 8 different options for jacket pockets, from simple flapless to pleated patch to button down.Finally, add an individual lapel, and (of course!) a pocket square of your chosen lining.
WaistcoatI'm a big fan of double breasted waistcoats, especially for ladies. Another great addition to a waistcoat is a lapel - not something commonly found on off-the-peg garments, so going A Suit That Fits bespoke is the perfect opportunity to chose something a little more unusual.
TrousersLike the jacket, the first thing to add is a bit of lining colour stitching - this appears in the bar tacks at the top and bottom of the front pockets, and at the side edges of the back pockets. On trousers, you can also choose options for turn ups, reinforced gusset, front pleats (single or double) or flapped back pockets.
ShirtsThe opportunities for adding a bit of individuality to our shirts are almost endless. My favourite additions are contrasting buttonhole stitching and contrasting undercollar and cuff, which are both great ways to add detail to classic white shirts. You can also choose coloured buttons, contrast cuffs on collars (great on striped and textured shirts), monograms, and lets not forget our myriad of cuff and colour options.
Click here to go the suit wizard and here for the shirt wizard - have a look this time at all the optional extras at the bottom of the page and get designing!
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