A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> bespoke trousers
The festive season is upon us and it's time to think about your party suit. Forget about your average business suit: this year's holiday season coincides with an exciting '70s revival in the fashion world from Tom Ford's glamorously loungey, floral-patterned spring/summer 2014 collection to Daft Punk's glittery tuxedos in the promo video for Get Lucky.
This December your should ideally reflect the fun nature of the season. Some ways you can incorporate fun into your wardrobe include opting for opulent fabrics like and , wearing bolder colors such as , or , and choosing showy details like and contrast piping.
There's no better time to think disco and let your inner playboy run wild than during the holiday season. Some words of advice: mix in your party elements subtly by balancing a showy staple (usually a jacket) with tailored elements. Consider a velvet jacket with black tailored trousers and patent leather shoes. Or perhaps a silver gray, black-lapeled jacket and black trousers. Make sure you balance ostentation with classical taste. One way to ensure you do this is to check out A Suit That Fits' ready-designed creations, particularly our purple velvet dinner suit (above right) with black satin lapels, lilac lining and purple piping: my favorite!.
Flat-fronted, slim-fitted trousers remain the preferred choice of the fashion industry and the modern man. But this year's Autumn/Winter catwalks saw an influx of pleated designs from the likes of Burberry Prorsum, Vivienne Westwood and Giorgio Armani.
Whether this trend will translate into greater public preference for the pleated trouser or will remain this year's fashion oddity is yet to be seen. Pleated aren't an absolute no-go; a decent style advisor will consider their clients' preferences while keeping one eye on what they consider to be the most flattering design for the individual.
A few things should be considered, however, when deciding whether to dress with pleated or flat-fronted trousers. The first is function. Where will you be wearing your suit and in what capacity? If you're buying a suit for the office, pleated trousers offer greater comfort, especially if you're sitting at a desk for long periods. Pleated trousers also create a formal business-y look and might therefore be appropriate for the mature gentleman who wishes to distinguish himself from his flat-fronted/skinny-fitted suit-wearing subordinates. Pleats are also more flattering for men with larger builds, because they create an attractive shape around the waist-area.
The argument against pleats is more than a matter of taste. If you're tall and slim, no functional reason for wearing pleats exists. If you like them, go for it! But be aware of the effect they produce: the aesthetic, besides being business-y and therefore less attractive for the evening, is decidedly 80s. Pleated trousers were ubiquitous in the 80s (think Richard Gere in American Gigolo); if that's the style you're going for, I applaud your retro stylings, but I do recommend mixing your pleats with a slim-fit leg for a more modern interpretation of a classic style. Click on Get the Look to start designing your pleated trousers now. Happy shopping!.
Here we have one of my clients; Indy, who is showing off the wedding suit I helped him to design a few months ago.
In the end Indy went for a stylish three piece suit in a navy cloth which worked perfectly with the colour theme for the wedding day. The jacket Indy designed had a classic feel to it with two button fastening at the front, slanted pockets and a notched lapel.
All of these design options are a very formal choice and would look perfect at any wedding; however, we decided to remove the flaps from the pockets to give the suit more of a relaxed feel and to make sure it felt like more of a wedding suit as opposed to something that Indy would wear to the office!. The waistcoat is again a very classic design with five buttons, a notched base and two pockets. The five button placement on the waistcoat allows it to be visible once the jacket is done up (as you can see from the image). This gives a very smart, stylish and simple look. To complement the rest of the garment Indy teamed his new bespoke suit, with a bespoke shirt and gold tie to match the colour theme of the wedding.
The trousers are a very simple design with cross pockets and no back pockets to help hold the shape and keep an overall slimmer look throughout. A suit like Indy's can be found in our professional range starting from 379 and would add an elegant touch to your special day.
Designing a bespoke suit can seem scary at times, especially when there are so many options to choose from. The first big decision; I think, that needs to be made is do you go for a two or three piece suit?My advice if you want to take your suit up a notch would be to go for a three piece!.
A three piece suit consists of a jacket, trousers and a waistcoat. The addition of a waistcoat to the suit, adds that touch of elegance, class and stratification to your suit.It's a versatile look that you can dress up, dress down and even wear as separates.
Gary Barlow dons a three piece really well and always makes a strong fashion statement! Here, he shows off a classic six button waistcoat in heavier weight wool worn as a full three piece but the suit could also be used as separates to make the most of the suit.
Whether you have a two or three piece suit design in mind, or have no idea what to go for, come and visit one of our studios and get your bespoke creation well and truly under-way!
Despite being updated with modern silhouettes for the contemporary era, the corduroy suit will always have that sexy, masculine, '70s-era kind of vibe. One of the best things about owning one, though, according to style guru Dan Trepanier, is that you get three wardrobe essentials in one: a suit, a go-to pair of trousers and a casual sports jacket.
Investing in a custom means you'll have some figure-flattering for the weekend and a sharp to wear with jeans at semi-casual events.
Whether you're going for the raffish air of an Oxbridgian English gentleman or the autumnal beauty of a thick, warm suit, corduroy is a classic fabric with a hint of unconventionality guaranteed to lend character to your wardrobe. Every man who wants to complete his collection of business suits and sports coats should think about investing in one. I hear there's even something quite seductive about those velvety corduroy lines on a man's figure. A Suit That Fits offers corduroy in all the classic tones usually associated with that fabric: black, chocolate brown, green, grey, light brown and navy.
So whether you want to invest in a full suit, a pair of trousers or a sports coat, plenty of options are available to you, including whether you want your trousers pleated, your sports coat single-buttoned or your suit slim-fitted. Enjoy shopping!. .
How to suit your shape
The thought of getting a bespoke suit made can be a daunting one; especially if it's your first. So, here a few hints and tips for you gents to help you create the perfect bespoke suit.
An untailored suit that is too long in the sleeves and jacket length will swamp your shape and make you look smaller than you actually are. This is the same for your shirt. Your shirt should fit like a second skin so when you remove your jacket you still look just as suave. You can avoid your suit and shirts being too big by going bespoke. There's nothing quite like having a suit made just for you!
How to make sure you bespoke suit fits perfectly
Going for a two button jacket with a notched lapel instantly makes you look slimmer as it puts the first button on the widest part of your body. Wearing your jacket just under your seat will lengthen your torso and make you look taller. Showing some shirt cuff from under your jacket not only looks very smart but also lengthens the look of your arms.
When you sit down, your trousers should not pull (if they do they are too tight) but, nor should they feel like they have lots of room if they do, have them taken in. In regards to the trouser length, there should be one break as they hit your shoe. If there's more than one break they are too long for you and will therefore make you look shorter than you are.
Wearing a pocket square brings focus to your chest and adds pops of colour and personality making your suit something different and the talking point of the office!
Using these hints and tips will make sure that you bespoke suit fits like a glove and you look as dapper and the gent in picture above. If you would like some further help and advice, feel free to book an appointment with me here in Manchester, Leeds, Liverpool, Sheffield Chester.
Why not get your tweed blazer out? The tweed jacket is a trademark of classic British style and has played a big role in recent seasons making it a menswear essential.
Tweed blazers are a versatile yet stylish piece to have in your wardrobe as they are an easy way to introduce textures and colours into your wardrobe.They are an easy throw on piece that can transform an outfit in an instant! Pair your tweed jacket up with denim jeans or for a casual look, or a smart pair of and a for a more formal occasion.
David Beckham does this well;
No matter how subtle or loud you want to go with your cloth choice, we can help! Have a look at our tweed cloths here.
Click here to see my personal favourite tweed.
Want to take your jacket one step further? Adding a leather or suede elbow patch to your jacket will give it an edgier look.
It is quite possible that that last statement was fueled by the third cup of coffee that I consumed this morning. Reading that back it sounds it a little over enthused, normal service shall now resume.
So where do these devilishly retro lovelies come from and how did they trickle into formal wear? Well those of us who ride horses will be familiar with gaiters used for effectively turning shoes into boots and protecting your leg.
This is the origin of the spat. Their original purpose was to protect stockings, dresses and trousers from splashes. The word spats stems from an abbreviation of the word 'splatterdash' denoting their humble beginnings. By the time we started the 20th century they had become a fashion must have for the dapper gent becoming widely associated with gangsters by the 30's in a shorter ankle boot like format. In spite of a brief 90's come back as a fashion accessory was sadly short lived since they were replaced by the rubber galosh (i.e. the rubber welly). To be fair these did do a much better job of keeping feet dry but they have never looked good with a suit.
Now there has been hot debate in our office today since I said I was advocating spats comments from 'ew so not cool' to 'aren't they a bit... you know kinky?' Well I am here to set the record straight, not only on they an amazing accessory to jazz up your every day suit, they have also been echoed in fashion.
Take these beautiful ankle heels; notice the buttons just like a 1920s dinner spat. Or below these lovely leather and tweed boots the concept of the canvas and leather ankle boot is so spatty and yet refined.
Coming into the autumn they'll keep you ankles warm and it's cheaper than a whole a new wardrobe, and ladies, if you're going out after work and don't want to take multiple pairs of shoes with you? Why not grab a pair of spats and slip them on to accessorise your attire, see Hana's new blog on vintage dressing if you want to go all the way.
Who knows, maybe I've been reading 'The Chap' too much of late but in my view if they're good enough for Depp? They're good enough for me!
This isn't one of the most popular themes these days but is definitely one of the most fun. It's something you can really play around with and something I've had a few guys coming to me in a panic over recently.
The most common set of questions are as follows; How do I pull this one off? These are the boots we picked out, what will they go with? Can I get something that looks like Will Smith in Wild Wild West?.
Now, if you are going to go full cowboy you do need a longer jacket with button down patch pockets, boot cut trousers and the bolo or Texan tie with gaudy slide. It's never going to be a suit that can transfer into a work day staple but what the hell, you'll look great for the big day. Ultimate Cowboy suit!
Links to ultimate cow boy suit:
If you're aim is something a little more subtle and reuseable think about picking aspects that nod to theme without being over powering. Go with classic and not too slim suiting making the accessories wild; cowboy hat being a must. Everything you never knew about the bolo tie info graphic. Other wise make sure you've got you lasso handy in case your filly tries to get away!
With Rachel now covering Oxford and Reading the City Road team has had a bit of a re-shuffle. The City Road girls, me and Rach are only together two days a week and in honour of this we decided to collaborate on a blog, me on the words, Rach on the pics.
Perfect little setup as I think I am the only fashion graduate who can't draw. Now, it may still be summer but if your want a new for Autunm this is the time to start thinking about it.
Our normal turn around is 6-8weeks plus fittings so even if you are still swanning around in your light grey suit and shades don't leave your Autunm option to the last minute. My favourite time of year is Autunm, the evenings have only just started to get dark and the colours are brilliant, perfect inspiration for your suiting designs.
Me and Rach have come up with three outfit ideas to get you started. First up, 'A Classic Three Piece with an edge.'
This is a great outfit for the more classic gent. The use of a contrast collar, pocket flaps and waistcoat give it that extra special something. The contrasting colour choice can be as wild or as subtle as you like. For this design we've gone with FLA-26, a grey heavy weight wool and cashmere cloth contrasted with HAB-2; a light brown herringbone cloth, also a heavy weight wool and cashmere. This is a real winner for Autumn and an idea that can be adapted for all seasons, events and occasions.
Fashion Forward suiting
Now, if you want something a little more on trend but still subtle, concentrate on your detailing. It is said that menswear is all about the details, something quite small can make all the difference. Again we've gone with a herringbone;HAB-3A, a grey wool and cashmere. The HAB's are such great cloths for the Autumn and can be really jazzed up with a splash of bright colour. With this outfit we've gone with straight flapless pockets with an extra ticket pocket all edged in red velvet. The red theme is carried on through to the cuff and lapel buttonhole stitching as well as a fushia lining.
Wild Autumn Oranges
Sometimes, classic and trendy are not what you want, sometimes, you want to walk into a room and make everyone go, wow! Our Sharkskin 5603-6 is a bronze cloth with a tonic weave that can do that. Keep the design very simple with a notched collar, slanted flapless pockets and straight leg trousers. With a really simple design you can afford to add a silk orange tie and really turn heads. The main thing to remember is that although suiting has a strong connection to the world of the nine to five it does not have to be dull. Tailoring is all about beautiful garments and amazing details.
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