A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> bespoke tailoring
Jim is a gentleman, and a chap. He appreciates the finer things in life, like fine suits, bespoke tailoring (by A Suit That Fits, naturally) pocket squares from Aspinal and contrasting ties.
Jim has friends in high places, and also friends who, like Jim, appreciate the finer things in life.
Jim's current suit of choice - as sported here by the man himself - is a navy Prince of Wales check, with contrasting blue lining and is hot-off the cutting table.
Jim is one of an increasing number of aspiring chaps who have learned that 'going bespoke ' is not only attainable but an easier journey to embark upon than one might think; it's simply a matter of finding a tailor who is right for you.
You too can find just such a tailor in Bristol, Birmingham, Cardiff, Exeter, Manchester, Liverpool, Norwich, Brighton, Leeds, Newcastle, Aberdeen, Edinburgh and myriad other locations that A Suit That Fits has set-up shop.
It never ceases to amaze me, the number of my patrons who stare at me blankly when I inform them that their trousers ought to be stored upside down; hanging from the ankles, of course!
I say of course, but what I oft forget is that the majority of my customers grew up with off-the-peg clothing which typically displays on a hanger whereby are draped/folded at the knee, as opposed a clamp-hanger which suspends from the hems.
The genius of this contraption, which resembles a bear-trap, is that the weight of the waistband/pocket construction pulls the trousers straight along the crease and at the same time eradicating any stretching and wrinkling at the knee that your trousers may have acquired through-wear. So, what other words of sartorial wisdom were not imparted to those of us born since the demise sartorial correctness and the birth of off-the-peg;
Storage: Hanging your Jacket
Your jacket, if tailor made, will have been made to fit you perfectly. Most importantly, your jacket will have been made to fit your shoulders, from which your jacket hangs. In essence, you are the mold for your jacket and it is at it's happiest being draped over you than at any other time; particularly when it is taken off and hung in your wardrobe - assuming not on the floor..
Ideally, all pieces of your suit will be stored separately: after each wear, they should be hung outside of your wardrobe overnight giving them opportunity to breathe, in much the same way we would rest a pair of fine handmade leather shoes between outings.
Dry Cleaning: The Myth
It is a myth that our suits require regular dry-cleaning. Just because suits can be dry cleaned (woolen ones at least, and, ergo, to avoid the risk of shrinking them but also to prevent the internal construction being damaged they should not be washed in a washing machine) does not mean we should clean them as often as we wash our shirts!
Freshening-up and Sharpening-up: Steaming and Pressing
From time-to-time, however, our suits will require freshening-up, and sharpening-up; if not least to keep hygienically clean. Asking your trusted valet (dry cleaner) to steam and press your suit will not only cost you less but is often all a suit requires to keep it looking sharp.
Your trousers , having been hung and weighted to pull them taught, and your jacket, having been wrapped around an inflatable mannequin which inflates inside the jacket to fill the garment are blasted with hot steam in a steaming cabinet, eradicating the cloth of any wrinkles/creases, and odours. Your trousers will then be bench-pressed to ensure a perfectly straight and sharp crease - it pays to be aware that, depending on your valet, creases can run from hem, through seat, to just below the waistband and may be a little high for some tastes so be sure to mention this as required.
The Clothes Brush: The Brush Off
The humble clothes brush has been almost completely consigned to the annals of time, but it should be the next investment one makes after purchasing a fine suit. Your suit should be brushed, in a downward direction, after each and every outing. The woolen-fibres of your suit's cloth, known as nap, want to be kept standing to attention. Brushing them regularly will keep the dust and lint free, and reinvigorate the fibres after a days wear; this also helps prevent your suit becoming shiny at the elbows, knees and seat.
So, there you have it. Elementary really. Look after your suit, and your suit will look after you. Bristol's local tailor provides this public service to the initiated and uninitiated alike - whether they want him to or not - free of charge, with each and every suit purchased.
Those interested in keeping their garments looking tip-top can procure the aforementioned accoutrements from Kent brushes and Caraselle Direct.
We would suggest adding a tie pin for a stylish finish!
Brandon dressing fore-sure for a day in the office as Clarke Kent! Slightly disheveled or could he be heading for the blue red! May be a power plant is in melt down near by?.
We surely can't mention Superman with out looking back at the late great talented actor Christopher Reeve who took on the red blue suit for 4 outings, from 1978 to 1987!
The nationwide prohibition on alcohol was ignored by many. There was a revolution in almost every part of human activity. Fashion was no exception!
From left to right we have an elegant evening suit with a wider lapel creating a wider shoulder shape with a narrow waist created by a low fitted waistcoat.
Next we have a morning suit , with contrasting footwear to set off the contrast waistcoat! Please also note the use of the peaked lapel again for that statement look!
Then we move onto our third outfit a tweed jacket with a notch lapel and contrast waistcoat and fashionable bow tie in front of a white collar on a blue shirt! If you look closely even though it's the same model his shoulders look slimmer! As your eye line is drawn to his waistcoat and bow tie! A slightly less formal attire!
Finally we have a contrasting Jacket, these are known as either boating jackets or even a smoking Jacket! After dinner attire the simple pocket square colour co-ordinates the light coloured trousers for a formal look! Darker colours are used on the torso for a slender looking silhouette!
Mr Dicaprio we can certainly say you have dressed suitably for the era and stand shoulder to shoulder with your predecessors below! It would'nt be right not to mention the previous elegant gentlemen who have also played Jay Gatsby! Alan Ladd, the dashing Robert Redford and our own Toby Stephens! They all look so elegant! Contrasting colours also used with bespoke tailoring can set you apart from the normal attire!
All comic book fans have been spoilt for choice this year with the release of such films as 'The Avengers, Avengers Assemble', 'Men In Black 3', and most recently 'The Amazing Spider-Man'. And with every great film comes a glamorous premiere providing a super sartorial spectacle! I was particularly impressed when leafing through the photographs from the event, to find such a variation of suit customisations.
Leading lady Emma Stone looks absolutely stunning (as always) yet her outfit is simple and chic. A pair of lengthens the leg, and with a thin gold buckled belt it draws the eye into the smallest part of the waist.
Even with a dangerously daring plunge neckline everything is secure, adding the perfect amount of glamour to the ensemble. Spider-Man himself, Andrew Garfield, was looking sharp in a simple black single breasted two button suit. A little controversial going for a navy tie with a black suit but that's just personal taste!
Next we have villain and infamous Welshman Rhys Ifans with girlfriend Anna Friel, wearing a fabulously green suit, definitely in keeping with his character, The Lizard. Green might seem quite a bright colour but as long as you keep it rich and dark you can really make a statement, a flannel in forest green would be perfect.
And finally we have director Marc Webb, who has also chosen a classic black single breasted suit. Webb is wearing another example of a half-width notched lapel. He's extended the theme to his tie and shirt collar to ensure the whole outfit is balanced.
Attention to detail: Hand stitched lapels Similar to the ticket pocket, hand-stitching on the Lapels isn't a feature you'd necessarily think about when designing a suit but once you've had it brought to your attention it's a subtle detail you'll notice on every other jacket from then on!
Some people love it, some people hate it, but on a simple suit such as Marc Webb's it adds a little something to make the outfit all the more distinctive. I would certainly recommend using hand-stitching on lightweight cloths verses thicker ones as it is less likely to sink in and will stand out. You can choose to have hand-stitching on any of our jacket lapels at A Suit That Fits so if you love it - we'll make it happen!
With the explosion of One Direction in the last few months in America all eyes are on this band. Most pop groups have a main person, someone that all the magazines focus, someone that everybody swoons over.
For One Direction that person is Harry Stiles. The fresh faced singer stole the hearts of adoring fans in the UK and U.S.A but here at A Suit That Fits we've got our eye on one thing, it seems that while everyone is falling for Harry, his stylists are in love with tailoring.
Here we see him wearing an over-sized bow tie. This type of neck tie has a youthful, playful feel but paired with a three piece mid grey suit it looks like Harry Stiles is going for a more serious suiting look.
This fitted black shirt shows of his slim waist and worn with a cropped grey Jacket that is cut very slim to show off his modern take on traditional tailoring.
It is great to see such a young gent flying the flag for suits. Harry Stiles loves the very slim tailored suiting. He normal sports a two piece but has been know to wear a waistcoat on occasion.
Unlike a lot of enthusiastic cyclist I came late to apprieciating the beauty of the bike. For various reason I did not own a bike past the age of a about ten so my real first experience of cycling as a form of travel was at the ripe old age of 25! I was interning for a design company in London and need a cheap and fast way of getting there.
My super healthy friend suggested I get myself a bike, thus beginning my love of cycling. Now I have got used to the roads in London I feel safe enough to survey my surroundings.
I myself tend not to wear my suit on my way to work but you would surprised the amount of people that do. My old studio manager, our very own David Minns always cycles to work wearing a three piece suit. This dapper gent has even been know to cycle down the street, one hand on the handle bars and the other holding aloft his beautiful vintage umbrella, I kid you not!
With this in mind, if you are more like David than me and wish to don your dapper suit while hurtling through traffic there are a few things you need to remember. Firstly, I would definitely invest in some good bicycle clips for your trousers. This will stop you legs getting catch in the spokes and keep your suits immaculate. I would suggest a more tapered trouser purely for this reason and try and stick to a light weight cloth as cycling can be hot work. Another thing to remember, that I know David Minns swears blind by is to ask for more space across the back of your suit jacket. Tailoring is the art of controlling the body within clothes, for this reason it is not always the most cycle friendly active so extra room across the back is always welcome.
A great option for ladies is to go with separates. A lovely summer dress with a suit jacket, keeps you cool for summer but smart for work. Another option would be to have an A line suit skirt or go with trousers.
But don't forget about your luggage! What about a stylish removable basket for your handbag? Or maybe like this gent you could just sling you briefcase over the handlebars and hope for the best. Great for Amsterdam but I fear this could be a bit more hair raising in a city not know for it's cycle friendly roads!
It's not just about cycling in a suit, what about cycling in an overcoat? Many a time I have been pelting it along the road and all of a sudden the heavens open up and the rain begins to fall, usually as I've just embarked on a half an hour cycle! Sometimes a mac just doesn't cut it, they keep you dry but unlike an overcoat they don't keep you warm. I would advice going for a medium, to light weight cloth though as cycling can sometimes by hard work and soon makes you steam. And what about the accessories? When I design tailored garments with my customers I always try and picture the scene. If a gent wants a casual jacket in tweed, where is he going to wear it? With what trousers is he matching it with and what scarf? Every detail should be consider. In that vain I love the photo below. This gent has teamed his two piece beige tweed suit with a vintage looking bike and the ice on the cake are his fingerless gloves, perfect for a country tailored look.
Being a bit of a rock and metal head myself I must admit that I somewhat over looked 'One Direction.' When they first hit the UK. I thought to myself 'well they'll be gone by the end of the year' and now they're storming the states.
Hats off to you lads, you've definitely gone up in my estimation. Lets face it, whether you love them or hate them they are are definately bring tailoring back into the lime light.
They are suiting ambassadors for a younger generation. One that would have otherwise totally miss out on how good a suit can look. Having a younger brother I have some understanding of the inner workings of a teenagers mind. They generally associate suits with their dads and a lack of cool. With One direction getting themselves suited and booted I think we are going to be seeing a general smartening up in the 16-25 age group over the coming year. I say lets make this the decade of the really cool suit. A nice nod to Elvis with the suede shoes in this shoot for Nokia (looking down at my desk this may even be the shot that made me get my new phone).
But really what I want to focus on here is their use of casual slim line jackets paired with bold colours. Since the Puritans got involved in British culture and the French killed their monarchy, menswear has generally been on the sombre side. There have been brief periods where men have step out of the shadows but these have had a tendency to be short lived. But these days I see more and more gents coming in to the studio wanting something a little different and 'One Direction' are a great example of how a man can wear colour.
One of the more subtle looks, a real winner for casual summer evenings. My favourite of the boys looks, understated and contrasting. Straight flapped pockets allow the mis-match of colours to remain separate and balanced as the eye is not drawn up. Liam has paired his trousers and jacket with a simple shirt with contrasting black buttons Niall Horan Get the jacket as part of a two piece to give this super look more versatility
This is a really slick casual look; a classic jacket worn with a shirt with a button down collar. My only point of contention would be the extremely low slung trousers, but this is a personal choice. I would suggest going with a more classic rise.
This look shouts 'I want to be Elvis!'
A bit of a 'Wow' look, to really glam up the jacket get a black satin lapel and contrast satin details. If your going bold, don't be shy, go the whole hog! The skinny collared shirt ads a nice break point between the face and the rest of the outfit which would otherwise be unbalanced. The trousers add a more sombre tone to keep the everything together.
Bright blue is the colour of summer, mixing it can add that certain something.
This is the 'Hoxton' look with a large dose of colour! It's a great for spring/summer 2012 and in keeping with the season. I've used a fine puppy tooth lambs wool for the trousers and combined this with a jacket in ultra chique cobalt blue from our VBC wool/mohair range. An electric red pocket square finishes the look although I'd go for a white shirt over a T-shirt (what can I say I'm a tailor).
Cheeky with a touch of geek chique.
I am a great lover of bow ties so this one naturally wins me over. A nice balance in the jacket with tonal nods to the trousers in the velvet contrast collar and stitch detail. This could work well in orange or red too. I like the weight contrast between the jacket and trouser; very light trouser with a moderately heavy cloth. This lends itself to summer evenings with a short sleeved shirt.
A few things to remember when emulating these looks; The trouser shape is important, ask your style advisor for an ultra skinny leg and a lower crotch measure. Adding a prominent seat to an other wise flat one will help by give extra space in the back, keeping the front flat.
Choose a funky suede brogue or another statement shoe to go with this outfit. My favourites this season are from Grenson's and Dr.Martin's.
What a thrill then, when Bristol's local tailors were afforded the opportunity to design a suit for a tattoo connoisseur who has travelled the world for his art in search of original, unique quality design and execution.
Ryan, who happens to be 's local barber - with 15yrs experience to boot - has so many pieces that he no longer keeps count!Though Ryan has sampled the skills of tattoo artists from Blitey to the US of A, most of the work was carried out here in the UK by friend and tattoo artists Chris Hatton: Physical Graffiti, Cardiff Ben Boston: The Tattoo Studio, and Leah Moule: Spear Studio, Birmingham.
We are very proud to have been commissioned by Ryan and Jen' - Ryan's betrothed, who has an impressive amount of tattoos herself . We can't wait to see the union of respective bespoke ink and cloth!. For outstanding service and a haircut to match, visit Ryan at Mack Daddy's, Park Row Bristol - tattoos optional.
With the whole country gearing up for the diamond jubilee all eyes are on the Royal family and here at A Suit That Fits we have an extra special interest in the Duchess of Cambridge. Kate Middleton is a great example of how tailoring can enhance your potential, both visually and socially.
Since her wedding to Prince William last April her tailored outfits have been showing us her more serious side. While the shapes Kate has chosen have enhanced her figure the tailored look has portrayed her as a lady that means business.
On a recent trip accompanying the Queen to Leicester Kate Middleton wore a very stylish skirt suit. With the belt emphasizing her small waist and the layers around her hips giving her small figure a more hourglass shape. Kate not only looks stunning beside the Queen but she also gives the impression of a worthy companion. Another perfect example of the Duchess of Cambridge looking great in tailored garments is that of the coat that she wore to meet the Irish Guards. Kate donned a navy blue double breasted coat dress with three quarter length sleeves and a short mandarin collar. The dress like overcoat was ultra fitted with a high neckline to keep it demure.
Kate Middleton is also a great advocate of mixing up tailored garments with more relaxed items. She was recently photographed wearing a heavy woollen three button jacket . It had slanted flapless pockets with a curved edge. The Duchess team this fitted piece with a relaxed patterned scarf and a beret at a jaunty angle. I perfect outfit for a royal.
It seems that Kate has really settled into meeting and greeting the nation and with a wardrobe to match she's definitely giving ladies tailoring the thumbs.
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