A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> bespoke tailor
Nothing is sharper than a fine tailored suit . It evokes a certain kind of confidence and I think that is the most important part of a gentleman's wardrobe. However to my surprise, a lot of men get it all wrong when it comes down to the nitty-gritty.
In this blog, I am going to break it down to five simple rules, so you always look your best. Wear a !
If you are going to wear a suit, make sure it's a full suit and a combination of a suit jacket and a pair of trousers . They may be the same color, but the texture and shade can vary dramatically and anyone in the know will be able to tell the difference. Suit trousers always wear out faster than the jacket , so when purchasing a suit , it is always a wise investment to buy an additional pair of trousers.
To button or not to button that is the question most confusing for a lot of guys. Follow these rules and you will never get it wrong again.
Two-button jacket : The rule is very simple here. Never button the bottom button of your jacket ever!
Three-button jacket : The rule here is Sometimes (top button), Always (middle button) and never (bottom button).
Double-breasted jacket : Follow the same rules here as the single breasted jackets. 6x2 double breasted is the most popular style. As seen in the picture, the bottom buttonhole is never buttoned, just like its 2 button single-breasted counterparts. Functional cuffs : A fine tailored suit will always have working buttonholes. In this case, you want to always leave the bottom buttonhole opened. Waistcoat : Does not matter how many button is on the waistcoat . You want to always leave the last buttonhole on your waistcoat opened. Jacket length is very tricky because of the current crop jacket look. Unless you are going for a super trendy look, I recommend you to follow the classic jacket length rule. Jacket length should be half of your total body proportions. This way, you ensure that your seat is always covered, which is the most appropriate for the office. You can go shorter if you like, but make sure that the back of your jacket falls below your seat. Sleeve length is a very personal thing. Some guys like to show sleeve cuff while others prefer not. If you like to show a little cuff , make sure to show about 3/8 to 1/2, anything more than that will make your jacket sleeve length seem way too short. If you are not a fan of showing cuff , then make sure your jacket sleeve length falls right where the biggest part of your thumb begins, right below your wrist.
From left to right:
Sleeve is way too long.
Perfect amount of shirt cuff shown here
Sleeve is way too short.
The most contemporary style right now is the flat front trouser , no cuffs with a slight break. (Yes, showing socks is definitely a plus, so make sure you wear the nice ones!)
The more classic and elegant way to wear a pair of trouser is pleated with a cuff. It is definitely more of a retro look . If you are going to go with this style, the trick to making it more modern is to wear it with a 1 to 2 cuff with a very narrow bottom and a slight break.
Whilst we all love to be different from one another, one thing remains the same, we all want a well fitting suit. Unfortunately there are other factors at play and we loose sight of our original goal. How many times have you been swayed by a price tag, or a name, but been bitterly disappointed at some aspect of the garment you've just taken home? 'Sure, it's a lovely cloth, but the jacket is a little tight'.
'It'll do, as long as I don't button it up.' Or, 'Ooh it's Armani, or Hugo Boss, and it's on Sale. I've just got to have it.' Scenarios that happen probably every minute of every day on our high streets.
But the real question is Why?. We are all romanced by the shop windows, the magazine adverts, the TV adverts. We love to wear what the celebrities are seen in. How many of you guys have wanted The Beckham look at some point over the years. You take you hard earned wages to the shops, and you part with it just to be like your idols. You get home, look in the mirror only to find that, whilst it looked fantastic on Mr Beckham, it looks 'okay' on you. Bespoke is the answer to all of your questions. It is the plain and simple truth of the matter. A bespoke tailor will match your skin, hair and eye tones to the cloth that is perfect for you, not Russell Brand.
He or she will take measurements unique to your individual body shape, not Daniel Craig's. They will judge accurately your shoulder and back shape, not that of Ryan Reynolds. When the suit is ready to collect, you will put it on. You will stand in front of that mirror, and look at the person staring back. Then, and only then, will you realise - This is why the celebs look so good. Perfect shoulders, precise sleeve length, waist nipped in at the exact spot your body does. These are all attributes of a perfectly tailored garment. Not something you picked up one day after an hour on the high street. I mean, do you honestly think that Daniel Craig walks into Ralph Lauren, picks up a 40R jacket and 34R trousers, and emerges from the fitting room looking like he's ready for a magazine shoot? The truth is, that what is presented to you in a shop window, or a magazine advert, has been tailored on the model to within an inch of its life. This is what makes you think it'll do the same for you. And this is why you should take your hard earned money to your nearest tailor, and let him work his magic on you.
Recently working in our studio in Manchester I have noticed a new style creeping in. It seems that the 1920's is all the rage at the moment. This era included a lot of interesting suiting choices, making it still a very popular decade that my customers reference.
There were two very distinct suiting fashions during 1920s, with being one of the very few constants. were usually only worn for formal occasions.
In the early twenties men's fashion was characterized by extremely high waisted trousers, often worn with belts. Lapels on suit jackets were not very wide as they tended to be buttoned up high. This style of jacket seems to have been greatly influenced by the uniforms worn by the military during the First World War.
Trousers were relatively narrow and straight (never tapered) and they were worn rather short so that a man's socks often showed. Trousers also began to be worn cuffed, something we are seeing more of in our Manchester studio.
By 1925, wider trousers commonly known as Oxford Bags came into fashion. Lapels on suit jackets became wider and were often worn peaked. Loose-fitting sleeves without a tapper were another trade mark of this time. During the late 1920s,double-breasted waistcoats, often worn with a single-breasted jacket, also became quite fashionable.
For formal occasions in the daytime, a morning suit was usually worn. In the evening a short tuxedo jacket was preferred.
We have seen many characters come and go from this well loved soap, but the east-end gent has always been a big part of what EastEnders is all about. What one thing do these chaps love more than anything else? Well a well fitting sharp suit of course!.
And it is not just the good guys who like a , it's the characters we love to hate. Derek, played by Jamie Foreman is a well groomed rogue. seen here in a navy with a notched collar and two button front.
Alfie, on the other hand is a bit more retro. He loves his his flower patterned shirts, often over powering his well made and well fitting suits with the loudness that they create.
Here he is wearing a fine pinstripe suit with a 4 button waistcoat and a double cuffed shirt. He finishes it off with a cashmere overcoat in charcoal grey and of course a pocket square.
The real east-end gents were always very dapper with their bespoke Saville Row suits and obligatory Crombie overcoat.
The Kray twins were known for their love of well fitting suits and helped bring about the idea that the archetypal east-end gangster could not be seen without one. They would regularly don a two piece and team it with a black skinny tie. It is even thought that the character Peggy Mitchell was loosly based on Violet Kray, the twins mother. The Kray twins, seen here both in two piece suits with two button, notched collar jackets, pocket square optional.
An ever-present question when I tell people what I do, is what is it that makes me love menswear and tailoring in particular? I must admit that I do love being asked this, purely because it lets me rant on about a subject that is very close to my heart.
The beginning of my reply always starts with the statement that I love tailoring for its subtlety and attention to detail. A lot of my customers like to make their suits extra special with the use of contrasting stitching around their cuff buttonholes.
This can be anything from an accent of just one button to a larger statement where all the buttonholes are in a contrasting colour. Another amazing use of the bespoke tailoring experience is the working cuff. This was originally so that surgeons and soldiers alike could undo and roll up their sleeves. This was owing to the fact that they needed bare arms for fighting and surgery; it is now truly a sign of a man who loves attention to detail.
During my time at the Bristol studio I've seen some great detail choices and some amazing use of lining. Something as rich and as plush as a red paisley lining goes so well with a heavy tweed. Team that with a waistcoat and make it a three piece and the effect is fantastic. A look of classic country style with the lining giving a touch of decadence!
Next time your out and about on the streets take a look at the gent in front of you wearing a beautifully tailored suit. You might get a glimpse of his character when you get a flash of his lining!
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