A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> bespoke overcoats
Now entering it's third season, Boardwalk Empire has become an international success thanks to it's Award Winning writer (Terence Winter) and director (Martin Scorsese). I must confess that my newly developed love of this programme is all down to my customers - I had no idea how many people had been inspired by their fabulous 1920's attire ! When one thinks of 20's fashion the mind instantly jumps to flapper dresses and spats with very high and wide trousers - but this has given us a more realistic, day-to-day fashion to relate to.
With and wedding seasons upon us have been looking for an alternative to the more summery Pale , and Boardwalk Empire seems to have been the motivator of so many of their designs! So I've taken a look at some of the most popular requests and my personal favourites from the first couple of seasons:.
Enoch Nucky Thompson played by Steve Buscemi is our classic lovable rogue, leader of all things underhand and undisputed ruler of Atlantic City - and owner of a spectacular array of suits . If we look at the basics of this first suit you can see a three piece suit , 6 button Double Breasted jacket with peaked lapels and single breasted 6 button waistcoat . Pocket wise you're looking at straight flapped pockets with one right ticket pocket - very appropriate for the era. The double breasted jacket is always going to look wider when left un-buttoned due to the extra fabric but so long as it's well fitted it shouldn't have to look boxey or gaping when open.
If we then move on to some further examples you will notice that the fabric may change, but the principle components have stayed exactly the same. Never one to shy away from a bold fabric these checks and pinstripes certainly allow him to captivate the room.
A slightly rarer appearance of a single-breasted jacket from Nucky shows his obedience to traditional tailoring concepts. Double breasted = peaked lapels , single breasted = notched lapels . And he's even continued this less dramatic look by removing the lapels from the waistcoat and opting for a plain front. Though I think these images really emphasize the difference the peaked collar makes, going a long way to create the dramatic, powerful and masculine demeanour required for such a role. The consistent appearance of his signature red carnation in his buttonhole is just a lovely finishing touch.
Unlike a lot of enthusiastic cyclist I came late to apprieciating the beauty of the bike. For various reason I did not own a bike past the age of a about ten so my real first experience of cycling as a form of travel was at the ripe old age of 25! I was interning for a design company in London and need a cheap and fast way of getting there.
My super healthy friend suggested I get myself a bike, thus beginning my love of cycling. Now I have got used to the roads in London I feel safe enough to survey my surroundings.
I myself tend not to wear my suit on my way to work but you would surprised the amount of people that do. My old studio manager, our very own David Minns always cycles to work wearing a three piece suit. This dapper gent has even been know to cycle down the street, one hand on the handle bars and the other holding aloft his beautiful vintage umbrella, I kid you not!
With this in mind, if you are more like David than me and wish to don your dapper suit while hurtling through traffic there are a few things you need to remember. Firstly, I would definitely invest in some good bicycle clips for your trousers. This will stop you legs getting catch in the spokes and keep your suits immaculate. I would suggest a more tapered trouser purely for this reason and try and stick to a light weight cloth as cycling can be hot work. Another thing to remember, that I know David Minns swears blind by is to ask for more space across the back of your suit jacket. Tailoring is the art of controlling the body within clothes, for this reason it is not always the most cycle friendly active so extra room across the back is always welcome.
A great option for ladies is to go with separates. A lovely summer dress with a suit jacket, keeps you cool for summer but smart for work. Another option would be to have an A line suit skirt or go with trousers.
But don't forget about your luggage! What about a stylish removable basket for your handbag? Or maybe like this gent you could just sling you briefcase over the handlebars and hope for the best. Great for Amsterdam but I fear this could be a bit more hair raising in a city not know for it's cycle friendly roads!
It's not just about cycling in a suit, what about cycling in an overcoat? Many a time I have been pelting it along the road and all of a sudden the heavens open up and the rain begins to fall, usually as I've just embarked on a half an hour cycle! Sometimes a mac just doesn't cut it, they keep you dry but unlike an overcoat they don't keep you warm. I would advice going for a medium, to light weight cloth though as cycling can sometimes by hard work and soon makes you steam. And what about the accessories? When I design tailored garments with my customers I always try and picture the scene. If a gent wants a casual jacket in tweed, where is he going to wear it? With what trousers is he matching it with and what scarf? Every detail should be consider. In that vain I love the photo below. This gent has teamed his two piece beige tweed suit with a vintage looking bike and the ice on the cake are his fingerless gloves, perfect for a country tailored look.
Bespoke wedding wear at an affordable price.
With Merly Streep's recent Oscar win it is just a reminder that there is so much to love about this amazing actress. Already this year she has not only won an Oscar but a Bafta too, with many other awards to follow I expect.
Streep is condsidered one of the best actress' of her time with her career stretching from roles like Kramer and Kramer to her most recent depiction of Margeret Thatcher in 'The Iron Lady.
' But Merly Streep is not just a great actress, she is also condsidered a major style icon. It seems that her appeal stems from the fact that Streep never tries to be fashionable, having regularly claimed she knows nothing about fashion.She never looks uncomfortable or unsure in what she wears. This relaxed feeling she emulates comes across in the way she carries herself. When Merly Streep dresses for an event she does it in a way that is not over considered. Merly Streep's Oscar winning dress.Unlike a lot of actors and actress' Streep's style is very much her own. She does not always look perfect but she manages to always come across as natural even when looking extremely glamours.
Meryl Streep recently won a the Bafta for best actress. In many of her roles as well as her personal life Merly Streep has chosen a more tailored look. This is a style that really suits her shape and angular face. In 'The Devil Wears Prada' Streep's character was very hard and austere. By using large sharp collars and contrasting colours the director used Streep's angular face to emphasis this feeling of power and control. Looking at Meryl Streep's overcoat you can see how the stark difference between the black and white collars emphasis' her pale complexion giving a harsh look.
This is a look that Streep has donned in the past for earlier roles in her career. While playing Joanna Kramer in 'Kramer and Kramer' she wore the same style collar on an overcoat. The look had a softer feel than her later role in 'The Devil Wears Prada.' This was done by giving her a relaxed floaty hair style, with loose strands. This softened Streep's face and although she still looks very professional in her overcoat it is a more relaxed look than that of Miranda Priestly.
Meryl Streep in Kramer Vs Kramer In more recent years Meryl Streep has taken this more tailored look into her own personal wardrobe. For a promotional evening for the musical 'Mamma Mia' Streep attended wearing a ladies large shawl collar jacket. The jacket had a one button fastening and an extremely cut away front, enhancing Meryl Streep's natural curves. Merly Streep at the photocall for Mamma Mia The most amazing and recent transformation of Meryl Streep into character is that of her role as Margeret Thatcher. Not only is her acting superb but her grasp of the iron ladies' speech is uncanny. The shoulder pads and server cut do help though. These extra large shoulder pads on ladies really signifie the eighties, with wide notched collars and nipped in waist, you could be forgiven in thinking that old Maggie had risen again! Meryl Streep as Margeret Thatcher in the Oscar winning picture 'The Iron Lady.' Here Streep wears a dark heavily pad suit with contrasting collar.
Whether you are in need of a new winter overcoat, or you are going to treat yourself, or perhaps someone is going to treat you to one as a gift, you will be hard pressed to find an overcoat of such quality and elegance as an A Suit That Fits bespoke number.
A lot of people do not consider 'going bespoke' for an overcoat, mainly because of cost I suppose, but I have it on good authority from my Customers that our overcoats are very good value for money compared to the High Street.
By going bespoke you have the choice of every detail; whether that be cashmere or wool cloth, the length and the cut, and all the details that you could possibly want in an overcoat, such as gun flap, epaulettes, storm flap, the list goes on (see Mighel's top 10 overcoat attributes post for more details!). If, like the majority of my Customers, you are unsure whether or not you want to wear your overcoat over your suit, fear not, A Suit That Fits offers no fewer than 4 lining options, including a pop-out quilted option. If you decide you'd like to wear your overcoat sans jacket, having tried it on for the first time, we can of course alter it to fit a little more snugly, genius!.
Having designed your dream overcoat using our Style Wizard, if you have any questions regarding our overcoats, please feel free to contact your local style advisor, or email me directly firstname.lastname@example.org.
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