A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> Tweed Suit
So you can imagine one's glee when Giles made an appointment with A Suit That Fits to discuss just that!
Giles' own style is what I call British preppy; well-fitting and check shirts teamed with either handmade Northamptonshire shoes, or, in Giles case limited edition training shoes; and he wears it well.
So I wondered what he might want with a tweed suit but given the country location of the wedding and Giles penchant for the best in cloths that the fashion world can provide, tweed was a natural choice.
Whilst the order of the day was to be grey, at least for the groom's suit, it was a black and white herringbone tweed, giving the appearance of grey, which provided a muted backdrop for the wedding colour scheme of green, which adorned Giles's chest in the form of his tie.
Now traditionally, black would be the shoe colour of choice for a grey wedding suit, or any other grey suit for that matter. But Giles is not a fan - understandable given his penchant for high-end trainers. And whilst I encourage individuality, there can be no better guide for what shoes (or any other accouterments) to wear than those which complimentary one's ensemble.
Hence (and before you sniff take a look ) Giles' very own green Vans sneakers were worn with aplomb, perfectly complementing his green tie, and moreover, affording him two cracks of the wedding-colour scheme whip - bravo!
I'm not against Christmas. In fact, I rather enjoy it. In my adulthood, however, I find it increasingly difficult to get in the mood as it were until very late in the season - Christmas has become a rather busy time for weddings and so I am busy in my Queen Square studio discussing whether the groom is required to wear the colour-scheme chosen by his betrothed, in the lining, or not.
Or whether or not Tweed is an acceptable alternative to morning dress - to which the answer is of course yes!I'd prefer not to see anything pertaining to Christmas in shops or on billboards until at least the 30th November, but as that is unlikely to happen, I thought I'd get in there first with a seasonally-inspired blog, or title at least, concerning surely the most important part of Christmas: Dressing-up!Picture the scene; Bristol's local tailor - and one of his patrons as it happens, one Darren Lewis (looking resplendent in his HAB-6 petrol navy cashmere herringbone 3 pc suit) await the 07:22 to Southampton for this week's Tailorstop (A Suit That Fits' regular pop-up shops that take our tailoring services around the country) it quickly becomes apparent that there is a festival taking place this weekend - summer is not quite over it would seem - and the already short train that takes us across the beautiful Salisbury Plain is going to fill-up rather quickly!Fortunately, A Suit That Fits' organiser extraordinaire Margarita, has reserved me a seat into which I shoehorn myself.
I am hemmed-in (haha-Ed) by 3 young festival goers - and their myriad bags of camping equipment -psychology students it transpires, and one a graduate, no less!And as I look around at the multifarious branded backpacks, it occurs to me that there is not only no wet-weather gear being worn by this throng, but no Tweed being worn by a single one?!. Tweed, you see, is my go-to festival and camping canvas of choice, and I'll tell you why; unlike denim Tweed will keep you dry owing to it's clever weave of coarse yarn which keeps water from the wearer. And, unlike wet weather gear, including Gortex, it breathes - and anyone who has ever donned their waterproofs to make the pilgrimage from tent to main stage will know that once you have arrived at your destination the rain will almost certainly have stopped and the sun will be beating down, leaving you simmering in your own juices and praying for a downpour!A Suit That Fits range of Tweeds (so named, it is said, after an English tailor mis-read 'Twill' on the sales-note of a Scottish mill close to the RiverTweed) are from Italian mill, Campore and are of the highest quality.
Some are fine and others hand-woven and coarse - and not dissimilar to that Tweed institution Harris.So, Tweed, I tell you - and anyone that will listen - is the way forward for such unpredictable jaunts into the countryside and not just for Christmas - or weddings!. .
One of my favourite trends in non-formal suiting recently has been the cropped trouser. The look has, over the summer been seen in all the fashion capitals of Europe, cementing it as a credible style for the smart gent.
The designer Thom Browne is the original trailblazer for and they are still very much his signature item today. He wears them with anything from a , to a and even a dinner suit!.
One thing the Brits know how to do well is wear a good suit - and we have certainly not been short of sartorial inspiration during the celebrations. The chap that has stood out to me the most as looking especially suave at every occasion of the Olympics is David Beckham.
Beckham has played a role in the journey of the Olympic torch since May when it was brought from Athens to the UK at the start of the Torch Relay. As shown above Beckham went for a , the texture of which gives a little more depth to the without the need for a or .
A beautifully tailored suit, David wears a single breasted, two button jacket with notched lapels, double vents and straight flapped pockets paired with straight leg trousers. The pale pink shirt with black contrast tie works perfectly. You'll struggle to find Beckham without a Tie-pin when wearing a day suit- love it!. When the torch arrived in Britain David Beckham accompanied Princess Anne and Lord Coe, the chairman of the London Organising Committee for the Olympic Games. They had the honour of lighting the cauldron to celebrate the flame's official arrival. For this special occasion he returned to a notched collar and selected a darker suit colour, going with a navy.
Rachel's Wedding Themes: Part 2, Sweet as Pie
In the first installment of my wedding themes blog I looked at reds and pinks. This time we're going to look at a very popular theme at the moment, the sweetie theme.
'Honey, sugar, cup-cake, I'm sure you've called your partner at least one of these terms, love has inherent sweet connotations and it's something you can really have fun with. So this one is fairly straight forward and a really charming theme as you can have lots of fun with the decorations and table gifts. This website is a great place to get all the things you need, they even have proper liquorish root and kola cubes! (Yes I have a sweet tooth) http://www.aquarterof.co.uk/ But for this blog our focus will be the suiting potential.
You don't have to go for a giant splash of colour like these gents above, but if you want a subtle hint why don't you try what I like to call the Cadbury's suit; rich brown with our AE104 Dark Purple lining. It looks really great if you've got a winter wedding, go with a tweed cloth or if you prefer jaffa cakes, the paraquette lining with a cream shirt and a blue tie.
With this theme the devil is in the details. Choose classic suiting shades adding that touch of sugar with love heart cufflinks or candy tones in the contrast details, maybe even powder blue brogues for those with a bold heart.
For the more classic gent go with a light grey silk and wool mix with a subtle purple and blue stripe. Give the detailing a pastel twist with a violet lining, light blue piping and a powder blue melton, keeping everything bold without being brash.
It's not just the suit that can take on the sweetie theme, this is a wedding idea that you can go as far as you like with. It all depends on how crazy you and your bride want to make it! And if all this sweetness is is starting to make your head spin and your teeth ache I recommend a cup of bitter coffee to bring you back down to earth!
The summer is done and the autumn has just began. In looking back at the past season I have never before had such a demand for heavier cloths. Tweed was definitely In this summer. In a season where one would expect to see more clamor for Mohair and lightweight wools, Tweed stole the show.
Above are photos from our and customers, choosing bespoke garments for a variety of reasons; , business wear, casual wear and even a performance at a music concert.
I can't fault the choice of cloth. It's vintage, which is HUGE right now, it's bold, it's long lasting and it's very very stylish. At A Suit That Fits, we have over 40 different ranges of Tweed to catch your eye. Some are Limited Edition, so you'll have to move fast! The appeal of bespoke seems to be related to it's unique quality. People are drawn to the fact that it allows you to create your own individual style and choose attributes which suit you best. This level of freedom can never be found in the shops.
When you put aside sound it is vital that all visual details are highly considered. The focus now relies on what we can see, a person's dress becomes highly important, telling us a lot about the character.
With this in mind The Artist has also cast colour aside to boot. Textural depth steps forward and striking the right balance between white and black becomes paramount.
Above all it's the shades of grey that give the detail, but the extremes that define and hold focus on the image. All these tools and observations are things you can use to your advantage in your day to day life. Peaked lapels feature heavily and this stunning double breasted three piece in a tweed cloth fits this gentleman's (Al Zimmer) rounder body shape. The lapel gives him presence when compared to the gentleman next to him. The key thing to remember though when picking a work suit is context. Bear in mind your profession and ask yourself the relevant questions, such as, is a peak too much for your job? As an accountant probably yes but for a PR executive this more flamboyant look could be perfect.
The Artist features iconic tails, satin peaked lapels, double breasted waistcoat and satin covered buttons. The difference in textures carry well in black and white. If you're getting married this year and want to go black tie this is the look I'd go for! Classic, classy and a real stand out style. It screams elegance and success from the tip of the peak, to the fall of the tail. The subtle textures carry as well across a room full of guests as they do through the media of film.
'Disheveled' I think is the word, with the rumpled suit emphasising George's state of mind. Keeping sharp will always give you more confidence and make you more effective in you work life, it's also a good trick for catching a ladies eye. Remember Barney from 'How I Met Your Mother,' the cheesy lines don't work but the sharp suit will turn heads.
And what mention of The Artist would be complete with out a mention of little Uggy. He ultimately proves that subtle detail like a bow tie can make even a dog fit for the red carpet.
An ever-present question when I tell people what I do, is what is it that makes me love menswear and tailoring in particular? I must admit that I do love being asked this, purely because it lets me rant on about a subject that is very close to my heart.
The beginning of my reply always starts with the statement that I love tailoring for its subtlety and attention to detail. A lot of my customers like to make their suits extra special with the use of contrasting stitching around their cuff buttonholes.
This can be anything from an accent of just one button to a larger statement where all the buttonholes are in a contrasting colour. Another amazing use of the bespoke tailoring experience is the working cuff. This was originally so that surgeons and soldiers alike could undo and roll up their sleeves. This was owing to the fact that they needed bare arms for fighting and surgery; it is now truly a sign of a man who loves attention to detail.
During my time at the Bristol studio I've seen some great detail choices and some amazing use of lining. Something as rich and as plush as a red paisley lining goes so well with a heavy tweed. Team that with a waistcoat and make it a three piece and the effect is fantastic. A look of classic country style with the lining giving a touch of decadence!
Next time your out and about on the streets take a look at the gent in front of you wearing a beautifully tailored suit. You might get a glimpse of his character when you get a flash of his lining!
Sherlock Holmes the second series is a contemporary update of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's Sherlock Holmes detective stories. It was created by Steven Moffat and Mark Gatiss, and stars Benedict Cumberbatch as Sherlock Holmes and Martin Freeman as Doctor John Watson.
I must say they look very dapper in there bespoke attire. In the picture below you see Sherlock in lovely bespoke overcoat with contrasting lapel button hole with extra wide lapels and slanted flapped pockets this really looks great.
Underneath he is wearing a smart black cord two piece suit which is a good hard wearing fabric which can be made to look very smart when dressed up with a smart formal shirt or smart casual with knitwear and casual shirt. The series was produced by Hartswood Films for the BBC, and co-produced with WGBH Boston for itsMasterpiece anthology series. Filming took place at various locations, including London and Cardiff. Critical reception has been overwhelmingly positive and the first series won the 2011 BAFTA Television Award for Best Drama Series.
Dr John Watson played by Martin Freeman is very casual in his attire, using light weight cardigan in the picture above and a smart black casual shirt teamed up with denim jeans. He plays a great part with Benedict Cumberbatch they just seem to bounce of each other. This is a must see its one of the best series on the BBC for while now.
Who would have thought that in a small country such as Scotland, there would be such a difference in tailoring tastes over the cities of Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen. It seems strange to me that, despite being only 45 miles apart, Edinburgh and Glasgow have such different tastes.
may be 130 miles north, and could be excused for having such variance, but the / style differences have really surprised me. In 7 short months, I have met a varied range of people from many different industries and backgrounds.
I love meeting new people and finding out about what they do for a living, or what their hobbies are. I've been surprised at the amount of interests I share with many of my clients too. I love to hear about their style preferences and even more so, the reasons behind them. Some people want to follow trends, some want to buck them. But I think that there are people out there that just want the little details to be a bit different and stand them out from the crowd. Nothing fancy, just something that you'd have to be sartorially minded to spot - like a breast pocket on the right hand side, or no buttonhole on the lapel of the jacket.
Simple, but effective. Edinburgh is the Business City. I have seen more Blue and Grey fabrics chosen here, mainly because many of my clients are building a working wardrobe. Spare trousers are a popular choice with precise measuring featuring more prominently. The trousers have to be spot on, sleeves must show a dash of shirt cuff. Pocket hankies are definitely sought after here. Now, I must add that most of the suits I design with my Edinburgh clients are not Statement pieces. They are smart pieces of kit for the office - sharp lines, often 3 piece , usually navy. But are well fitted to the wearer. Douglas is a great example of this. Aberdeen seems to be the place for the finer fabrics. Most of the clients in the Granite city like to choose Mohair or Wool and Silk mixes. Colour varies here, I have had selections made of most categories in the colour book. I think that given it's reputation as the Granite City, it's residents and workforce prefer to add some colour to the streets and offices.
Many of the Aberdeen clients also prefer a more relaxed fit, rather than a slim fit. It's a much more classic look compared to the central belt. I've also had a number of 3 button requests in the North East too.
Not surprisingly, the most trend-led part of Scotland is Glasgow. Former European City of Culture. There's a very wide ranging clientle in Glasgow. Some like ultra fitted suits, some like Mod styling. The biggest contrast here is that, even people looking for a business suit are a bit more bold and brave in their style choices and colour choices. Herringbone is popular, as is bold pin-striping. Tweed is also often asked for (See Ross, Below) and I do find that the styles being asked for are more in line with current trends. I really enjoy my visits to Glasgow and I do plan to be there more frequently in 2012.
All in all, Scotland is a great place to be as a tailor at the moment. It never ceases to amaze me how many people out there know exactly what they want from their garments. It gives me great pleasure to work with them to create a look that they are happy with. It does require patience to perfect the template, but once that is complete, the ideas keep flowing. Safe in the knowledge that the garments can be created in a style that suits, in a cloth that they have chosen and in a fit that has been perfected through a number of fittings.
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