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A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> Three Piece Suit
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Suits, the hit series on TV channel Dave is sweeping across the UK. Here at A Suit That Fits we do love the style of one of the central characters Harvey Spector. He looks amazing in his three piece bespoke suits.
Harvey Spector played by Gabriel Macht is one of New York City's top attorneys who has recently been promoted to senior partner at his firm. He is forced by company policy to hire an associate and after an accidental interview hires Mike Ross, played by Patrick J. Adams. Harvey is impressed by the younger man's quick wits, his encyclopaedic knowledge of the law, and his genuine desire to be an attorney. Due to the fact that Mike lacks a law degree, and because the firm prefers Harvard alumni, they both pretend that Mike is a Harvard graduate. Harvey's dapper fashion sense is starting to rubber off on the young Mike.
Being more of a renegade Mike though prefers a two piece suit. He teams them with a belt and a more classic notched collar. By wearing a belt he gives the traditional lapel a modern twist.
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White collar, is a hit American TV series staring Matt Bomer as Neal Caffrey a skilled forger and thief who is imprisoned after being captured by FBI Special Agent Peter Burke. When Burke calls on Caffrey to assist in him tracking other crimminals he realizes he has a valuable source on his hands.
With his sharp style and smooth looks this guy is definitely creating waves, think Cary Grant in 'To Catch a Thief' with a modern twist. This is a gentlemen with an edge. Neal Caffrey is definitely a lover of the slim fit suit. Be it a two or three piece he always wears a suit with a silhouette that is cut close. He's suits tend to be two button with flapped straight pockets and notched lapels. If he's wearing a three piece the the notched lapels are a thin width and he sports a five button waistcoat.
Matt Bomer's character is the quintessential bad boy with a heart of gold. His actions are extremely well considered and so too are his clothes. As well as his well tailored suits Neal Caffrey has a penchant for beautifully tailored overcoats, turning up the collar to give that extra look of ruggedness.
Now, a man of style is not complete without his accessories, the little things that cut him above the rest, Caffrey is no different. He is nearly always seen with a vintage tie and tie pin, finishing off the outfit with a pocket square and well placed fedora. People would forgive us for being ever so slightly envious of this imaginary characters effortless style!
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As we mark the 200th anniversary of the birth of the greatest British writer of all times, Charles Dickens, it surprises me that the man on the back of the 10 note was only 58 when he died of a stroke at his home.
When looking at photos and images of Dickens you can see that during the Victorian era a longer length, broad notched collar was very much in vogue. This style of jacket is nowadays called an 'Edward' jacket; the piped edges show real quality to the heavy weight hand sewn garment.
The waistcoat was for Victorian men what the tie is to the 21st century gent. Dickens was known for his dapper waistcoats, he would have had multiples in varying different colours to accessories one suit. His waistcoats would nearly have always had pockets and regularly sport either a notched or shawl lapel. Through the period that Dickens was writing trousers styles changed but generally favoured a high waist, straight-legged look with braces and no belt loops.
Today the gents generally go for a lighter weight cloth, with shirting colours that match their neckties, a more casual suiting look being the order of the day. Back though when Dickens was writing Oliver Twist among many others, cloths were heavie. We would think nothing of a man waltzing down the high street without a suit jacket. In the Victorian era being seen in just a waistcoat was the equivalent of being in public in just your underwear.
A lot has changed since Charles Dickens strolled the streets of London observing and recording the plight of the poor. As we enter his bicentennial year it is interesting to look at all aspect of the world he inhabited, from the style of dress to the culture he was part of.
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Gone are the days when Brides only wear white and so to it seems are the restrictions of the kind of suits that bridegrooms can don for their big day. With the advent of many alternative wedding styles it is quite exciting to be in the studio at the moment and see what interesting ideas walk through my door.
His father also wanted something jazzy to wear and opted for a brown tweed two piece, also with orange lining. Another vintage trend that is really having a renaissance for bridegrooms suits at the moment is the morning coat. When worn with a waistcoat and top hat it adds that extra pizzazz that makes the big day all the more special.
But what if you decided to elope for your big day? With so many people going abroad to tie the knot by the sea how can the bespoke tailor revamp the archetypal wedding suit? The answer is the white linen two piece. Although not technically a new concept the light colour and light weight gives a freshness to a tailored suit that is perfect for a beach wedding.
Another great trend at the moment is the rockabilly suit. An idea that David and I recently had the good fortune of putting into practice. Ryan came to us wanting a suit for his wedding that matched his personality and style and we did not disappoint. He went for a very slim fitting two piece suit made from HB-6 , a lovely heavy weight herringbone perfect for a spring wedding. He adding red paisley lining and went for a peaked lapel, two button jacket. Ryan added some amazing two tone shoes and a great retro shirt. Perfectly dapper for his big day!
These retro choices show that grooms today really are following their ladies lead and getting into the spirit of dressing up. A great thing I think and something I hope is an on going trend. With the world of bespoke suiting being so varied it's definitely something we can help them with.
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An ever-present question when I tell people what I do, is what is it that makes me love menswear and tailoring in particular? I must admit that I do love being asked this, purely because it lets me rant on about a subject that is very close to my heart.
This can be anything from an accent of just one button to a larger statement where all the buttonholes are in a contrasting colour. Another amazing use of the bespoke tailoring experience is the working cuff. This was originally so that surgeons and soldiers alike could undo and roll up their sleeves. This was owing to the fact that they needed bare arms for fighting and surgery; it is now truly a sign of a man who loves attention to detail.
During my time at the Bristol studio I've seen some great detail choices and some amazing use of lining. Something as rich and as plush as a red paisley lining goes so well with a heavy tweed. Team that with a waistcoat and make it a three piece and the effect is fantastic. A look of classic country style with the lining giving a touch of decadence!
Next time your out and about on the streets take a look at the gent in front of you wearing a beautifully tailored suit. You might get a glimpse of his character when you get a flash of his lining!
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I try to maintain a selection of 5 or so shirts to wear during the working week. However, as a result of building works being carried out at No. 73 (no, not the 80's TV show but my new home in Totterdown) I found myself without a washing machine and vis-a-vis the ability to launder my shirts conveniently, and upon demand.
Whilst it took me some time to be convinced of these light weight shirting cloths they really came into their own in this time of need. With hand-washing the only option - which is a much wetter affair than machine washing which offers a spin cycle - I wondered if my shirt would be wearable come the morning. However, given the lightweight nature of these summer plains, they were dry in no time - without the need to hang them near a radiator, which I find renders shirts as stiff as cardboard.
However, my only remaining shirt looks best when worn with my blue flannel suit and did not compliment the suits which I'd yet to wear: a blue pinstripe - which I'd rather hoped would work given the blue cloth and beige shade of the stripe - grey flannel PoW, or my grey two-tone mohair.
The only other alternative was to break-out one of my w'end suits which are both blue suits, but which are both 2pc, and I only ever wear 3pc during the week; my OCD was beginning to spike at this point, but I was also running out of options.
So with only a 2pc mohair lounge suit or a 2pc double breasted cashmere/wool herringbone suit to choose from, the choice was effectively made, given that it's not really the climate for mohair - unless worn as a 3pc - in Bristol at present and I tentatively donned the db...and it felt wonderful!
Though the notion of wearing one of my occasional weekend suits Mon - Fri is an uncomfortable one to say the least, I feel my wardrobe has been liberated in giving my db the chance to shine in front of a wider audience. I also have an increasing number of eccentric and adventurous customers who swear by a db, and I too have begun to feel rather comfortable in this Edwardian cut number.
The maiden voyage also happened to be the the day that I was to meet with Peter Robinson, Publisher of Lansdown Place magazine to fit him for a suit - about which he will be writing of his experience ahead of my taking over the publications style column in the spring - and so, no sooner had I ventured out, but the moment was immortalised with the click of a photographers camera lens!
I hope you like the new style...
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Last weekend, we joined the boys from Bonhams at The Goodwood Revival . The festival celebrates automotives of the 40's, 50's and 60's and to get into the spirit of the event, visitiors are also expected to dress the part.
The guys were ready and raring to auction an admirable collection of classic and vintage cars, so they had to look the part. They went for our HAB-6 fabric; a petrol navy fabric, with a herringbone finish and opted for a three piece design to fit the vintage theme of the show. They differentiated the suits by wearing different coloured ties and choosing different coloured linings for a personal touch.
We think they looked great and it just goes to show that whichever era you take your suit inspiration from, we can help to create it!
Here are some of our favourite pictures from the show...
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George Lamb is a radio and TV presenter, he's the son of Larry Lamb who was formerly in EastEnders. He's presented a host of radio and television shows which included Celebrity Scissors Hands, The Restaurant and most famously he has presented Big Brother's Little Brother on E4.
Below, George is wearing a three-piece suit in a brown and green check he has gone for a standard peaked lapel with a pocket square in his breast pocket, he's sporting a classic 4 button waistcoat with no lapels and a crisp white shirt with a long and pointed standard long collar.
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Tom Felton, the English actor, is best known for his role as Draco Malfoy in the Harry Potter series, appearing in all eight films.
More recently, in addition to acting he has tried his hand at singing, releasing an album, In Good Hands, in 2010.
Away from the film set Tom certainly knows how to look dapper in a suit.
Here Tom wears a charcoal grey 3 piece single breasted suit. The slightly slimmer peak lapels keep the suit modern looking, while the right hand ticket pocket and pocket square add classic styling too. The crisp white shirt and skinny silver tie finish off the outfit perfectly.
Tom pulls off the smart casual look very well too. Here he is looking very relaxed in a navy, one button, notch collar single breasted jacket over an open necked black shirt.
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Starring in one of this year's biggest movies The Adjustment Bureau and with a string of blockbusters behind him including the Bourne trilogy, Matt Damon also knows a thing or two about looking sharp away from the film set.
Pictured here with his Argentinian actress wife Luciana Barroso, Matt is wearing a three-piece, peaked lapel dinner suit. It has a jacket with two-button fastening, and straight, jetted pockets with a five-button, single-breasted waistcoat underneath. He eschews the traditional bow tie normally worn with a dinner suit, wearing instead a normal black silk tie over a crisp white shirt. Here again he favours the peaked lapel style, but in a very fashionable mid-grey check. Straight, flapped pockets and a two-button fastening complete the look. Teamed with a crisp white shirt and a complementing striped tie, Mr.
Damon certainly looks the business.
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