A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> Three Piece Suit
An adaptation of 'A Servant and Two Masters' by Goldoni it is set in the 1960's and perfect for a modern, British audience. I failed to go and see it while James Corden was in the role of Francis Henshall but the other week I treated myself to a little after work outing with a girlfriend.
I'm inclined to believe that Owain Arthur does an even better job in the lead role. I loved it, the timing and atmosphere was amazing. If you intend to go and see this show I strongly recommend popping to the bathroom in the interval otherwise the level of laughter is likely to cause accidents, a tribute to it's Comedia dell'arte roots.
I loved the way the production focused on taking visual clues from the costume to inform us of the character types and their function within the plot. This was subtle but still visable to the theatre savvy. But probably my favourite aspect of the performance (given my profession) was the attention to detail in the costume of this 60's extravaganza.
Here we see one of the iconic 60's looks; carefully contrasting cloths, trousers with a single pleat and braces with a sports jacket with a slight longer length. In the context of the play it shows the rakish vanity of the character when combined with the slick hair and general demeanour. To bring this look up to date create a slimmer line to your trousers and jacket, cut out the pleats, airing on the slim side with your lapel. White collar and cuffs are really in style at the moment and mixed with a striped cloth for the rest of the shirt, this look is just super!
A note for any ladies reading; the use of suiting separates and carefully mis-matching cloths gives you great versatility. When choosing your suiting go for a few full suits in cloths that will work with each other. Then pick a few stand out cloths for single garments again remembering versatility is the key here. Bold trousers and skirts with simpler blouses and jackets are must this year.
I find the costume of the character Francis utterly charming. A little nod perhaps to the diamond print of the harlequin role that he presides within. Checks and tweeds within suiting have been really winners on the catwalks the past couple of seasons. Brown and blueish tones work beautifully together and something like the Check-875083-2 or our TPO range are all appropriate here. With summer not far off though it might be a good idea to bear in mind the CB range of checks as light weight alternatives.
Looking at other characters within the play we come across the use of crisp white shirts. This look is simple but kept almost comically 60's with this crazy paving tie with a diamond print. A style tip here would be to try not to mix check suiting with bold print ties. Another great tip this play has to offer is the use of classic men's tailoring on women. Provide you are not to full in the chest this can create a bold look. A slim fit dinner jacket can give you great taster of this look, a great advocate of this being Kate Moss (see Hana's blog for more info). These slim line slightly masculine jackets offer great options for pairing with jeans for a more casual look.
One of the reasons the characters costumes are so important is that visual character clues are a must in any comedy of errors. The importance of dress is also true in every day life. A persons first impression of you is often based on the your handshake, your smile and the way you dress. A crisp well cut suit speaks volumes but the devil is in the detail
-A slim lapel can give a slick modern look suggesting you're a forward thinker and like to keep up to date. But be warned if it's wrong for your build (such as a very broad or boxy shape) it may suggest that you follow fashions blindly and need a lot of direction even if you are a hard worker.
-Peaked Lapels look great and ladies can wear them all the time but gents need to be careful as they suggest power and if you're a young guy in a low level job it might come across as arrogance. It might be best to keep it for sports jackets until you've got a few more years under your belt.
- Small, bright contrasting details on a very sombre suit hint to a fun side of your personality. It's a nice detail and subtle enough for a day in the office but be careful, a full set of contrasting button holes is a statement not a detail.
If you have any worries about coming over as 'just another man in a suit' come and see your local Style Advisor. We'll help you pick details that are right for you.
The phenomenal success of English boy band One Direction, after coming third in the 7th series of the X Factor, has culminated in a number one spot in America for their debut album Up All Night.The band, comprising members Niall, Zayn, Liam, Harry and Louis, are now embarking on what looks like a sell out US tour to promote their album.
They have generated so much excitement, that some commentators have likened it to the Beatles first visit to the States in 1964, and the necessity for 20 bodygurds for each member on the tour!With 2.
35 million Twitter followers already, the boys are proving to be a music sensation, and they're also showing a great sartorially individual style in their choice of suits too.Maybe better known for their trendy casual gear, the boys have also been cutting a dash in a series of sharp suits. I have already noticed an increase in popularity in my Oxford, Reading and Camberley studios of their preference for an ultra-fitted cut. In the above picture of the band at an X Factor gig, from left to right, Liam is wearing a charcoal two button suit in a mohair cloth, with narrow notch lapels, straight flapped pockets and narrow flat front trousers .
Harry sports a black one button suit in a wool/silk mix, again with a narrow notch lapel and flat front trousers. Zayn has a black one button suit in a mohair cloth, with a narrow shawl collar, slanted flapless pockets and narrow flat front trousers . Louis has gone for a very on-trend maroon one button suit in a sharkskin cloth, again with a shawl collar and slanted flapless pockets, with narrow flat front trousers. Finally, Niall has chosen a dark charcoal one button suit in a mohair cloth, with shawl collar and contrast black trim, slanted flapless pockets and narrow flat front trouser. They have all chosen white shirts and skinny black ties to complete their outfits. In this picture, Harry has gone for a three piece single breasted suit in a mid grey mohair cloth, with a one button notch lapel jacket, four button waistcoat and flat front trousers, complementing it with a white shirt and oversize black bow tie! Zayn on the other hand has opted for a light grey double breasted suit in a mohair cloth, with peak lapels, straight flapped pockets and contrasting black buttons. All the boys have accessorized their suits with pocket squares. The 'Fab Five' certainly know how to look dapper and trendy on stage!
If you like Louis maroon suit click here: http://bit.ly/GUqVqU
One Direction hit the States: http://bit.ly/GIBziS
When you put aside sound it is vital that all visual details are highly considered. The focus now relies on what we can see, a person's dress becomes highly important, telling us a lot about the character.
With this in mind The Artist has also cast colour aside to boot. Textural depth steps forward and striking the right balance between white and black becomes paramount.
Above all it's the shades of grey that give the detail, but the extremes that define and hold focus on the image. All these tools and observations are things you can use to your advantage in your day to day life. Peaked lapels feature heavily and this stunning double breasted three piece in a tweed cloth fits this gentleman's (Al Zimmer) rounder body shape. The lapel gives him presence when compared to the gentleman next to him. The key thing to remember though when picking a work suit is context. Bear in mind your profession and ask yourself the relevant questions, such as, is a peak too much for your job? As an accountant probably yes but for a PR executive this more flamboyant look could be perfect.
The Artist features iconic tails, satin peaked lapels, double breasted waistcoat and satin covered buttons. The difference in textures carry well in black and white. If you're getting married this year and want to go black tie this is the look I'd go for! Classic, classy and a real stand out style. It screams elegance and success from the tip of the peak, to the fall of the tail. The subtle textures carry as well across a room full of guests as they do through the media of film.
'Disheveled' I think is the word, with the rumpled suit emphasising George's state of mind. Keeping sharp will always give you more confidence and make you more effective in you work life, it's also a good trick for catching a ladies eye. Remember Barney from 'How I Met Your Mother,' the cheesy lines don't work but the sharp suit will turn heads.
And what mention of The Artist would be complete with out a mention of little Uggy. He ultimately proves that subtle detail like a bow tie can make even a dog fit for the red carpet.
Oxford bags were a loose fitting, wide legged trouser worn by students at the University of Oxford in the 1920s and remained popular until the 1950s.
The style originated from a ban in 1924 on the wearing of knickerbockers, which were intended for use in sport, by undergraduates at lectures. At the time golf was extremely popular and men who attended the University wanted to get to the links quickly after class so they had their made extra wide to enable them to be worn over the knickers.
When classes were over for the day, the men would drop their trousers and be ready for golf!
The style made a comeback in the 1970's, often worn with platform shoes, and a shorter variant of Oxford bags with tartan trimmings was made popular by a Scottish boy band, The Bay City Rollers.
If you have a hankering for this stylish trouser, come and see me at my Oxford, Reading or Camberley studios, and let me tailor a pair for you.
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For a little inspiration, some Madness!
We have seen many characters come and go from this well loved soap, but the east-end gent has always been a big part of what EastEnders is all about. What one thing do these chaps love more than anything else? Well a well fitting sharp suit of course!.
And it is not just the good guys who like a , it's the characters we love to hate. Derek, played by Jamie Foreman is a well groomed rogue. seen here in a navy with a notched collar and two button front.
Alfie, on the other hand is a bit more retro. He loves his his flower patterned shirts, often over powering his well made and well fitting suits with the loudness that they create.
Here he is wearing a fine pinstripe suit with a 4 button waistcoat and a double cuffed shirt. He finishes it off with a cashmere overcoat in charcoal grey and of course a pocket square.
The real east-end gents were always very dapper with their bespoke Saville Row suits and obligatory Crombie overcoat.
The Kray twins were known for their love of well fitting suits and helped bring about the idea that the archetypal east-end gangster could not be seen without one. They would regularly don a two piece and team it with a black skinny tie. It is even thought that the character Peggy Mitchell was loosly based on Violet Kray, the twins mother. The Kray twins, seen here both in two piece suits with two button, notched collar jackets, pocket square optional.
Suits, the hit series on TV channel Dave is sweeping across the UK. Here at A Suit That Fits we do love the style of one of the central characters Harvey Spector. He looks amazing in his three piece bespoke suits.
He tends to wear a , which gives a powerful masculine look. This works really well as his tall and slender shape is broaden at the chest allowing for a very smart silhouette from the shoulders to waist, In the picture below Harvey is wearing a , you can not beat a fine bespoke , very dapper!.
Harvey Spector played by Gabriel Macht is one of New York City's top attorneys who has recently been promoted to senior partner at his firm. He is forced by company policy to hire an associate and after an accidental interview hires Mike Ross, played by Patrick J. Adams. Harvey is impressed by the younger man's quick wits, his encyclopaedic knowledge of the law, and his genuine desire to be an attorney. Due to the fact that Mike lacks a law degree, and because the firm prefers Harvard alumni, they both pretend that Mike is a Harvard graduate. Harvey's dapper fashion sense is starting to rubber off on the young Mike.
Being more of a renegade Mike though prefers a two piece suit. He teams them with a belt and a more classic notched collar. By wearing a belt he gives the traditional lapel a modern twist.
White collar, is a hit American TV series staring Matt Bomer as Neal Caffrey a skilled forger and thief who is imprisoned after being captured by FBI Special Agent Peter Burke. When Burke calls on Caffrey to assist in him tracking other crimminals he realizes he has a valuable source on his hands.
With the insentive of Caffrey's freedom and Burke's continued FBI success rate, so begins an unusally partnership. Not only has this show been a hit on TV it has set off a whirl wind in the style world due to the dapper look of its lead character Neal Caffrey.
With his sharp style and smooth looks this guy is definitely creating waves, think Cary Grant in 'To Catch a Thief' with a modern twist. This is a gentlemen with an edge. Neal Caffrey is definitely a lover of the slim fit suit. Be it a two or three piece he always wears a suit with a silhouette that is cut close. He's suits tend to be two button with flapped straight pockets and notched lapels. If he's wearing a three piece the the notched lapels are a thin width and he sports a five button waistcoat.
Matt Bomer's character is the quintessential bad boy with a heart of gold. His actions are extremely well considered and so too are his clothes. As well as his well tailored suits Neal Caffrey has a penchant for beautifully tailored overcoats, turning up the collar to give that extra look of ruggedness.
Now, a man of style is not complete without his accessories, the little things that cut him above the rest, Caffrey is no different. He is nearly always seen with a vintage tie and tie pin, finishing off the outfit with a pocket square and well placed fedora. People would forgive us for being ever so slightly envious of this imaginary characters effortless style!
As we mark the 200th anniversary of the birth of the greatest British writer of all times, Charles Dickens, it surprises me that the man on the back of the 10 note was only 58 when he died of a stroke at his home.
Having started life on the factory floor at the age of 12, he did not let the dour surroundings end his passion for writing. He used his experiences to write of the working mans plight and although a dapper gent he had a great sense of where he began.
The waistcoat was for Victorian men what the tie is to the 21st century gent. Dickens was known for his dapper waistcoats, he would have had multiples in varying different colours to accessories one suit. His waistcoats would nearly have always had pockets and regularly sport either a notched or shawl lapel. Through the period that Dickens was writing trousers styles changed but generally favoured a high waist, straight-legged look with braces and no belt loops.
Today the gents generally go for a lighter weight cloth, with shirting colours that match their neckties, a more casual suiting look being the order of the day. Back though when Dickens was writing Oliver Twist among many others, cloths were heavie. We would think nothing of a man waltzing down the high street without a suit jacket. In the Victorian era being seen in just a waistcoat was the equivalent of being in public in just your underwear.
A lot has changed since Charles Dickens strolled the streets of London observing and recording the plight of the poor. As we enter his bicentennial year it is interesting to look at all aspect of the world he inhabited, from the style of dress to the culture he was part of.
Gone are the days when Brides only wear white and so to it seems are the restrictions of the kind of suits that bridegrooms can don for their big day. With the advent of many alternative wedding styles it is quite exciting to be in the studio at the moment and see what interesting ideas walk through my door.
Vintage wedding dresses have for a while been in vogue and now it seems the grooms have got the bug. A recent bridegroom who came to see me in requested a with a bright orange lining.
His father also wanted something jazzy to wear and opted for a brown tweed two piece, also with orange lining. Another vintage trend that is really having a renaissance for bridegrooms suits at the moment is the morning coat. When worn with a waistcoat and top hat it adds that extra pizzazz that makes the big day all the more special.
But what if you decided to elope for your big day? With so many people going abroad to tie the knot by the sea how can the bespoke tailor revamp the archetypal wedding suit? The answer is the white linen two piece. Although not technically a new concept the light colour and light weight gives a freshness to a tailored suit that is perfect for a beach wedding.
Another great trend at the moment is the rockabilly suit. An idea that David and I recently had the good fortune of putting into practice. Ryan came to us wanting a suit for his wedding that matched his personality and style and we did not disappoint. He went for a very slim fitting two piece suit made from HB-6 , a lovely heavy weight herringbone perfect for a spring wedding. He adding red paisley lining and went for a peaked lapel, two button jacket. Ryan added some amazing two tone shoes and a great retro shirt. Perfectly dapper for his big day!
These retro choices show that grooms today really are following their ladies lead and getting into the spirit of dressing up. A great thing I think and something I hope is an on going trend. With the world of bespoke suiting being so varied it's definitely something we can help them with.
An ever-present question when I tell people what I do, is what is it that makes me love menswear and tailoring in particular? I must admit that I do love being asked this, purely because it lets me rant on about a subject that is very close to my heart.
The beginning of my reply always starts with the statement that I love tailoring for its subtlety and attention to detail. A lot of my customers like to make their suits extra special with the use of contrasting stitching around their cuff buttonholes.
This can be anything from an accent of just one button to a larger statement where all the buttonholes are in a contrasting colour. Another amazing use of the bespoke tailoring experience is the working cuff. This was originally so that surgeons and soldiers alike could undo and roll up their sleeves. This was owing to the fact that they needed bare arms for fighting and surgery; it is now truly a sign of a man who loves attention to detail.
During my time at the Bristol studio I've seen some great detail choices and some amazing use of lining. Something as rich and as plush as a red paisley lining goes so well with a heavy tweed. Team that with a waistcoat and make it a three piece and the effect is fantastic. A look of classic country style with the lining giving a touch of decadence!
Next time your out and about on the streets take a look at the gent in front of you wearing a beautifully tailored suit. You might get a glimpse of his character when you get a flash of his lining!
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