A Suit That Fits Blog
The Number One Suiting Resource
Tag >> Tailored Waistcoat
Here at A Suit That Fits.com we are always working to improve our products and services - at the moment, our IT manager Vitaly is hard at work on a new-and-improved version of our clever suit designing tool, the suit wizard.
Last Thursday, Product Development Manager Mighel and myself were discussing potential improvements to the wizard. Mighel, high on the possibilities that a new wizard could bring, came up with idea for a 'Pimp my Suit' page at the end of the suit wizard. The page would provide options for adding all the little extra details that are often overlooked when going through the existing wizard - pocket options, contrast stitching options, lapel width options and the like. Users could add just a few from a list of extra attributes or simply click a large 'pimp' button at the bottom of the page to add the whole lot in one go.
While it is unlikely the a 'pimp' button is going to make the cut for the beta version of the suit wizard, the existing wizard still contains many little opportunities to make your suit a little more individual and rise it above the suiting norm. Keep reading to find out how. JacketThe first thing to do, if you have not already done it, is to add a rich coloured lining to your jacket. My favourites are those in the mystique range, especially the royal purple (AE106), and the blue paisley jaquard (B1 Navy).Once you've got your coloured lining, you'll definitely want to add a touch of that colour to the exterior of the jacket. Chose from adding colour to cuff buttonholes, lapel button holes or (for ladies), the lapel edge.Next thing to add is some interest to the lapels. For those who want to keep it classic, add a handstitched edge; the more daring could choose a narrow or a wide lapel. For a ladies suit, how about a contrast lapel and collar made out of one of our luxurious velvets?. Then the pockets - we have 8 different options for jacket pockets, from simple flapless to pleated patch to button down.Finally, add an individual lapel, and (of course!) a pocket square of your chosen lining.
WaistcoatI'm a big fan of double breasted waistcoats, especially for ladies. Another great addition to a waistcoat is a lapel - not something commonly found on off-the-peg garments, so going A Suit That Fits bespoke is the perfect opportunity to chose something a little more unusual.
TrousersLike the jacket, the first thing to add is a bit of lining colour stitching - this appears in the bar tacks at the top and bottom of the front pockets, and at the side edges of the back pockets. On trousers, you can also choose options for turn ups, reinforced gusset, front pleats (single or double) or flapped back pockets.
ShirtsThe opportunities for adding a bit of individuality to our shirts are almost endless. My favourite additions are contrasting buttonhole stitching and contrasting undercollar and cuff, which are both great ways to add detail to classic white shirts. You can also choose coloured buttons, contrast cuffs on collars (great on striped and textured shirts), monograms, and lets not forget our myriad of cuff and colour options.
Click here to go the suit wizard and here for the shirt wizard - have a look this time at all the optional extras at the bottom of the page and get designing!
Dick Valentine, the lead singer and songwriter, of Electric Six, wears some extremely fetching attire on the High Voltage video, including a three-piece stunner in the opening scenes. The outfit consists of a skinny lapel, two button, puppy tooth tweed jacket with contrasting tweed high-necked six-button notched-base waistcoat, paired with cream jodhpurs with suede patches on the inner thighs and knee-high riding boots.
Here at A Suit That Fits.com, we love to design classic looks such as the one dick wears in this stunning music video. Unfortunately for health a safety reasons, we cannot make suits with light bulbs inside the crotch area of a trouser. We can, however, recreate almost any style you desire, such as the outfit featured in the video - click here for a similar jacket and here for the tweed waistcoat.
Like all good Scotswomen, I love a man in a kilt. My English girlfriends think Im a bit strange and claim they cannot see the appeal, but Im adamant - kilts are hot! Theres something very appealing about a guy who is man enough to wear what is, essentially, a skirt.
So with Burns night just around the corner, A Suit That Fits.com brings you this timely style guide to kilts and tartan.
Sadly for some, there are some criteria that must be met before you can think about wearing a kilt. Firstly, you must either be A) Scottish, B) live in Scotland C) be accompanying your Scottish girlfriend to a formal event (wedding, burns night etc) or D) Marc Jacobs. Im afraid that if youre English and wear a kilt in England, you will be (quite rightly!) ridiculed by the first Scotsman to cross your path. Secondly, you must have good legs. (You may assume that kilts only expose the knees, but actually they are more revealing than you think.)
Now weve got those brief requirements out of the way, let us examine how to successfully and stylishly wear kilts and tartan to various occasions:
Kilts...casual? How? Surprising as this may seem, kilts can be worn as casual items - in my opinion this is the sexiest way to wear them! This is the look that Scottish rugby fans have got down to a tee - the kilt is paired with scruffy boots, rolled down socks, a rugby shirt and a few days of stubble (can of Tennents beer is optional). The best promoter of this particular look is Gerrard Butler, who likes to rock his with a pink sweater - something that perhaps only he is manly enough to pull off!Smart Casual to Slightly Formal
Usually reserved for ceilidhs and parties (Hogmany, birthday, christening etc). Its when dressing for these events that you men realise something that us girls have known forever - that a regular jacket is too long to be worn with a skirt! Whats a man to do? If youre at a ceilidh youre not going to need a jacket anyway, so you can just wear a shirt and tie. The shirt must be plain - any prints or stripes will fight with the tartan - and must fit perfectly, as youll be tucking it into the kilt - excess fabric flapping around the waist ruins the look. Our individually tailored fitted shirts in cream or white textured fabrics are perfect; the tie can be any colour present in your tartan. (But no, a matching tartan tie is not recommened!)A lot of kiltmakers sell Jacobite or Ghillie shirts - the kind with a lace up at the neck. Dont be tempted by these...they may keep you cool while you ceilidh but dont really look that good on anyone, no matter how manly your chest (except possibly Mel Gibson, and the jurys still out on that one). If you cant bear to wear a tie, go for a pin-tucked dress shirt instead, leaving the neck openWhat if you feel the cold and really want to wear a jacket? A tweed jacket is the best choice - it works because the fabric is similar in finish to the tartan worsted wool used in kilts. Pick a plain tweed in colours that complement your tartan, in a style known as the Argyll Jacket - a single-breasted, single-button short jacket with buttoned flapped pockets and turned up cuffs. Argyll style separates jackets (minus the buttons) can be created using the A Suit That Fits suit wizard (Ive created an example here ) - remember to order such a jacket 3-4 inches shorter than your regular suit jacket!Formal (Weddings, Burns Dinners and other black tie events)Were now into the territory of full-on Scottish Formal Dress - this involves a special type of jacket known as the Bonnie Prince Charlie Jacket or Highland Tuxedo, which (like a traditional tuxedo) has contrast satin lapels and (unlike a tux jacket), a multitude of silver buttons. (For less formal events, an Argyll Jacket in regular suiting fabric will do).If you feel that you cant handle the Ghillie Brogues, then you can substitute them with regular dress shoes. Be careful with the Sgian Dubh if youre wearing it south of the border - Ive heard some tales of English policemen not appreciating that is an essential accessory and booking the carrier for a possession of an offensive weapon.Seeing as the jacket is going to come off at some point during the evening, then wearing a kilt is an excellent excuse to get yourself a really smart waistcoat. Tartan looks great with velvet in a complementary shade and a double or single breasted velvet waistcoat with contrast satin lapels (such as the ASTF velvet separates waistcoat ) is the perfect way to stand out from the kilt-wearing crowd.Even if you dont think you can pull of a kilt, you can still wear tartan. Almost all clan tartans are available in dupion silk. This beautiful fabric looks great in ties, cravats, cummerbunds and (for the more adventurous) waistcoats.
Christmas, tis' the season to be jolly.... So jolly in fact that everyone seems to be getting engaged!
Being a single man, I am trying my hardest not to resent those couples who have decided to take the next step, and have attempted to focus my attention on what to wear at the wedding, rather than feeling distain to these power couples who will spend the rest of their lives together in blissful happiness.
So here are my tips on what a 'lonely' gentleman should wear to a wedding in 2010. In fact if you follow these tips, you will look so sharp and dapper you will be certain to have a ring on your finger by 2011!. The Summer Wedding
1. Wear a waistcoat. Jacket trousers and waistcoat is essential for summer weddings because if it is a hot sticky summer day, your jacket can be removed and you will remain looking smart with the trousers and waistcoat. Also waistcoats always hold your tie in, so you can lean in for another slice of pavlova without dunking your new silk neck tie in the cream. Click here to start designing your three piece.
2. Chose a mohair fabric . Because of how it is woven, mohair breaths better meaning you will be a little bit more comfortable sitting through those long, hot summer weddings. Mohair is not the hardest wearing of all our fabrics so it is a perfect material for occasion wear such as a summer wedding.
3. Keep it relaxed. I really love to wear my suit with brogues and no socks. This instantly makes your suit look summery and a little more relaxed. Also perhaps just wear a suit and shirt and no tie, this makes the outfit feel slightly more relaxed while stile remaining smart.
The Winter Wedding
1. Wear a waistcoat. Wearing a waistcoat at winter weddings is great because on the whole its cold in that church and the more layers the better. Saying that this is not the reason for the waistcoat. The reason is people always tend to overheat a marquee in the winter, and you don't want to be sweltering in your jacket. Wearing a waistcoat means that one can still be respectably dressed for dinner even when your jacket is removed. Very clever!
2. Wear great statement accessories. Bright socks, graphic tie, chunky scarf, pockets square and cool cufflinks are a great way of jazzing up a grey wool three piece. Also everyone else at the party will be wearing muted wintery clothes, why not stand out a little. They always say don't steal the limelight from the bride, however they never say that about the groom though do they, so you might as well have some fun.
3. Pack an umbrella. Again this sounds obvious but there is nothing worse than getting to the reception smelling like a wet dog. Also single ladies NEVER pack umbrellas so it is the perfect time for you to offer up half of yours and see if she suits you as well as your suit, suits you.
The time has come for cricket teams around the country to start thinking about what their kit is going to look like for the summer. Some of you may have already seen the highly personalised bespoke tailored waistcoat from Shepherds Bush Cricket Club .
Inspired by the notion of creating the perfect sporting waistcoat, our tailors set to work immediately. The final product with its rich forest green wool and coloured satin back (featuring the yellow and maroon tones of ) perhaps displays the versatility of our tailors like never before.
This bespoke tailored waistcoat is a joy to behold but even better to wear. Its triple-buttoned fastening and streamlined lack of lapels make it a particularly light and summery affair perfect for cricket or any sporting activity. The final touch is the satin coat of arms and the inscription on the upper left breast. Working closely with our customer's designs, our tailors promised a detailed finish and a product that any sportsman would be proud to wear.
If your team is thinking of getting some new team outfits and would like to see what A Suit That Fits.com can do, please call 020 3355 3560 to book a consultation.
A tailored suit has always been thought of as an investment. Most people would prefer to have anything made for them; with clothes it would be great to have everything bespoke. From choosing the cloth, what kind of pockets, to how many buttons on your cuff and the width of the hem on the trouser! All this has, in the past, cost the interested parties lots of money with suits starting at some of the more historic Savile Row tailors at 2000 - 3000.
This, I expect, is the main deterring factor for most people. However, with the cost of excellent quality garments being reduced, more and more of us can experience what it feels like to have tailored garments.
So now that cost is a less of a factor what prompts people to opt for clothes that are designed by them, for them?. It all starts with how retailers work. To make maximum profit they will sell suits at sizes that most people are. This is why in a lot of shops you will not be able to mix and match the suiting sizes, due to the fact that according to statistics most people with a 40 inch chest will have a 6 inch drop to the size of their trouser waist, 34. Then you have to take into account every other factor of a suit. So, the sleeve length may not show the amount of cuff you like, or your thighs may be proportionally larger making it harder for you to fit into your actual trouser waist.
Accompanied with the fact that you really do still have to like the fabric and the style of the suit it isnt any wonder that not many people enjoy their suits. I always used to hate wearing my old off the peg suit. I thought I hated all suits. I thought I needed a job where a suit was not necessary. I was wrong- what I hated was a suit that did not fit. Not very surprising really!. A bespoke suit enables a customer to have control (obviously with the tailors advice!) over the style, fit, fabric.everything! Once the cost is reduced leaving the quality high there really is nothing stopping everyone having their perfect suit. Have a go at creating your own tailored suit here
Or simply tweak this grey suit , navy suit , black suit that I have created here. Enjoy my chosen linings!!
Today, if men wear a suit to the office they almost immediately take off the jacket. It would be too hot and probably uncomfortable to work at a computer with all day long. So they walk around the office in suit trousers, a shirt and possibly a tie.
If the man goes outside, it is likely that he will either put on both the jacket and a coat (in winter) or nothing at all (in summer). Either way, the jacket is redundant.
This redux of the classic lounge suit is often unflattering. Gone, for most of the day, is the waist-concealing silhouette of a well-made suit. That most attractive of outfits, which flatters many men like nothing else, is lost.
Here's my solution. It's logical and practical; though obviously that doesn't mean anyone will take it up.
The key is the waistcoat. Men don't wear suit jackets because there's no need in an air-conditioned office; the waistcoat will not make you too hot. Men don't wear suit jackets because it can be uncomfortable to work in at a computer; the waistcoat does not restrict you. A man without his suit jacket can look scruffy if his shirt becomes untucked; the waistcoat keeps it hidden. Without his suit jacket a man's tie can look untidy; the waistcoat keeps it buttoned up and prim. It's hard to fault the logic.
So basic office attire could be a two-piece suit of waistcoat and trousers. A man can then wear any weight of coat over it when he goes outside. Wearing waistcoat and trousers is not quite as flattering as a jacket. But it does lengthen the figure in a similar way, maintaining that long line of smart dark wool.
Any pictures included in these entries are free of copyright to the best of the author's knowledge. If you are the copyright holder of any imagery displayed, please contact email@example.com for immediate removal.