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Tag >> Tailored Suit
We've been waiting for the biggest music award show in the UK, and it has come and gone! BRITs 2013 has brought the music world together just for one night at the 02 London. As anticipated, all the celebrities turned up looking very elegant and sophisticated- with few exceptions; I can't explain what happened.
Perhaps their stylist isn't on the same wavelength- you can make up your own conclusions. However, the gents on the red carpet at this year's BRITs Awards are certainly not opting for subdued looks.
There's no doubt they'd have tried on numerous suits and considered countless accessories to finish off their desired looks. First up, we've the man of the moment, Justin Timberlake. He arrived ahead of his performance sporting a classic grey two piece suit with peak lapels. He wore this with a brilliant white shirt with collar bar. The 'Suit and Tie ' singer finished off his style with a classic black tie which acts as a focal point and a printed pocket square. Although he looked a bit spooked out on the red carpet, this gifted and talented individual delivered a great performance on stage.
Justin Timberlake hits the stage for his performance donning a dinner jacket in a reversal of the traditional black jacket with satin lapels. He opted for matt shawl lapels with gleaming jacket . To complete his look, he wore a white dress shirt with studs and oversized bow tie. Pictured here, we've the JLS lads all looking very dapper in their three piece suits - look at their shoes too! It's obvious these lads have paid attention to the details, just like their music. Despite being snubbed in the nominations, JLS made an outstanding appearance; displaying attributes of bespoke tailoring . In the mix, we have peak lapels , shawl lapels , notched lapels , slanted pockets and contrasting lapels and pockets. Their choice of fabrics reflects the versatility of their music- from tweed to checks and solid colour. For representing the best of British tailoring, kudos to their stylists!. Seen any style you like? Book an appointment to see one of our Style Advisors.
Although it's nothing more than a long piece of fabric , the tie is an elemental accessory when it comes to the creation of a sublime suited gentleman. Simply adorning the front of a shirt and thus being an undeniable focus of attention for the entire look, this simple piece is one of the most pervasive pieces in menswear.
Over the years, the classic has been reproduced into array different and distinct forms- from the colour, to the , the length and even the width.
On the matter of the suitable time to wear a skinny tie , I'd sincerely say that this accessory can be worn for both formal and casual occasions. When it comes to casual situations, the thin tie can be paired with a simple button-up with either the sleeves rolled-up or under a dashing contemporary blazer . Thus, for a more laidback look, I recommend that you knot the skinny tie in a loose manner that eschews excessive formality while embracing an easy-going nature. When it comes to formal attire, the skinny tie should be worn with a tailored suit in order to emphasise a more graceful profile. It should also be tied in a tight fashion that reflects the formality of the occasion.
Need more advise? Book an appointment to see one of our Style Advisors.
Let me ask you a simple question. Has your dry cleaner ever blamed the quality of your garment after ruining it? I'm afraid that there are few dry cleaners out there that haven't mastered their trade successfully.
Whilst you strive to purchase good quality , made from excellent thus they last; the dry cleaner you take your to might just be the catalyst to damage the that your are made with.
So what is the solution? I hear you cry. Kick them to the kerb. I'm going to share with you, three signs of a bad cleaner. So, next time when you pick up your garments from your dry cleaner, look out for these signs. If you spot any of these signs, don't hesitate to switch. The so called 'deal' you're getting from the dry cleaner will not be worth it when they damage your expensive tailored suit .
Why shouldn't you bother? It's her day- fine, but it's also your day.
Men prefer to hide behind the statement; it's her day thus they get less involved with the wedding planning, agreed. However don't allow this attitude to reflect on your effort.
Try to complement your bride's remarkable wedding gown with a befitting suit, dinner suit or a morning coat - which ever you opt for. Your big day is one of those very few exceptions where everything must be perfect as it is in any man's life. I'm certain you and your bride have gone through utmost diligence to ensure the day is exquisite; but did you discuss what you and your best man (or groomsmen if you are having an army) will be wearing on the day? Some men don't discuss this with their brides as it seems trivial to them; only if they knew that all eyes will be turned on the groom as well as the bride on the day.
Would you agree, you need to discuss what you're going to wear?. The question you need to ask yourself is, will I be hiring, buying off-the-peg or going bespoke? If you decide on hiring because it's economical, fine. However, look at it from this perspective, would you hire a suit for 130 (this is the rough price you'll pay for three piece suit ) when you can get a tailored suit from 259? My opinion, that's not worth it; why should I pay for 50% of the suit's cost for one day hire? Besides the price factor, it will be tricky for you to get a suit that will perfectly fit you- and I don't think your bride will appreciate it if you're wearing an ill-fitted suit on your big day.
On the other hand, off-the-peg suit you can buy and own- for life! The prices are even attractive; you'll be able to pick one up from 180. Fitting? You might be lucky to pick one off-the-peg that needs no adjustments (if you already know the store where their size fits you well) or little adjustment. In which case, you can take to your local alteration centre to get it adjusted. Ahh..wait, not that simple! Two questions, first, who will be responsible for the suit if the alteration center ruin it? Second, how are you going to ensure none of your guests will show up at your wedding wearing the same suit as you- the groom (that's happened before)?! After-all the entire store you bought the suit from is not exclusive to you, is it? Think about it.
These are the three secrets suit retailers don't want you to know
On the contrary, you've the option of going bespoke- not as expensive as you think. You can get your hands on your fully tailored wedding suit from 259. I know, hard to believe, but the Nation's Local Tailor made this possible. I can guarantee three things if you go down this route.
We've all been waiting for it. Been teased and tempted by various clips, reports and photographs. and FINALLY we have the official premiere of the newest James Bond film Skyfall back where it belongs in London.
The last year of anticipation has only served to increased every man's desire to be James Bond and every woman to be wooed by James Bond. If you can't get the Licence to Kill or afford the insurance for the Aston Martins - dressing the part is absolutely the next best thing.
So with all eyes undoubtedly on the man of the moment, James Bond himself in the form of Daniel Craig - he certainly didn't disappoint. A classic black dinner suit worn with a crisp white dress shirt , dress studs, matching pocket square and bow tie - simple, fabulous. Though in a reversal of the traditional black jacket with satin lapels , Craig has gone for a matt shawl collar with textured satin jacket . If you're looking for something similar our blue collection-D5 would be the best selection.
Pictured here with Bond Girl Berenice Marlohe who looks absolutely divine in this sumptuous Vivienne Westwood creation (I have an obsession with her incredible bodices) you can see the Bond suit in more detail with his straight flapless pockets and straight tapered trousers - even a satin cummerbund . He's stuck to a thoroughly classic tailored suit which I think is quite appropriate for the occasion celebrating one of Britain's finest.
Shedding the black cape of 'You Know Who', villain Ralph Fiennes gave us another excellent example of a classic dinner suit , complete with satin shawl collar , flapless pockets and satin piping down the trouser seam. You'd normally see a slightly wider satin stripe but this finer piping looks rather edgy!
Amongst the glamourous cast of Skyfall there was also a glittering array of celebrities including Ms Naomi Campbell. I mentioned this new trend of the female interpretation of the dinner suit and I was delighted to find another superb example!The extra-wide peaked lapels enhance the jacket 's feature shoulder pads which give a really dramatic shape to the jacket , and the sweeping cross-over of the striking white lapels bring your eyes into her already tiny waist - very elegant. You'll also notice the back-to-front double vent - most probably intended as more of a stylish slit than a vent but I certainly appreciated the irony!
It has been said that there are only seven stories in the world and every story written is just a variation on these seven basic themes - the same could be said for tailoring , but just as every story feels new and exciting despite having the same basic concept as those that have gone before it, so does every trend.
We also look back on the classics with fondness and just as writers take inspiration from the past masters, so do tailors .
Each generation adds its own twist on the classics, with designers throughout the '50s and '60s taking inspiration from the narrower cuts created through necessity in the '40s. Suits then exploded into the '70s with lapels stretching out to the shoulders and trousers matching the bell bottom trend seen in jeans.
The 1980s power suit saw a revamped version of the 1930s wardrobe staple with double breasted , square cut jackets and pleated trousers often in bold stripe fabrics.
The 2000s saw a revival of the close cut styles seen in the 1960s; with close cut jackets, ankle skimming drainpipe trousers and skinny ties.
Our attitude towards tailoring has also changed throughout the decades. Up until the 1950s a smart jacket was a staple in every man's casual wardrobe and he would rarely be seen without a tie but youth culture and casual denim pushed suiting out of favour and it soon became reserved for office and occasion.
Tailoring came back into favour in the 1980s with pastel coloured blazers being paired with casual items such as t-shirts and jeans. However, once again the 1990s, we have seen casual suiting working its way back into the everyday wardrobes of men. We can now see blazers and tweeds as they were in the early 20th century.
With suits no longer being reserved for special occasions it is more important than ever to look back at those basic principles that have been laid down to make sure they can stand up to the pressures of everyday life. With proper fitting, quality materials and excellent workmanship a suit will work hard and last a lifetime.
Although trends may change over the years a well fitted suit will always work, after all style never goes out of fashion.
Nothing is sharper than a fine tailored suit . It evokes a certain kind of confidence and I think that is the most important part of a gentleman's wardrobe. However to my surprise, a lot of men get it all wrong when it comes down to the nitty-gritty.
In this blog, I am going to break it down to five simple rules, so you always look your best. Wear a !
If you are going to wear a suit, make sure it's a full suit and a combination of a suit jacket and a pair of trousers . They may be the same color, but the texture and shade can vary dramatically and anyone in the know will be able to tell the difference. Suit trousers always wear out faster than the jacket , so when purchasing a suit , it is always a wise investment to buy an additional pair of trousers.
To button or not to button that is the question most confusing for a lot of guys. Follow these rules and you will never get it wrong again.
Two-button jacket : The rule is very simple here. Never button the bottom button of your jacket ever!
Three-button jacket : The rule here is Sometimes (top button), Always (middle button) and never (bottom button).
Double-breasted jacket : Follow the same rules here as the single breasted jackets. 6x2 double breasted is the most popular style. As seen in the picture, the bottom buttonhole is never buttoned, just like its 2 button single-breasted counterparts. Functional cuffs : A fine tailored suit will always have working buttonholes. In this case, you want to always leave the bottom buttonhole opened. Waistcoat : Does not matter how many button is on the waistcoat . You want to always leave the last buttonhole on your waistcoat opened. Jacket length is very tricky because of the current crop jacket look. Unless you are going for a super trendy look, I recommend you to follow the classic jacket length rule. Jacket length should be half of your total body proportions. This way, you ensure that your seat is always covered, which is the most appropriate for the office. You can go shorter if you like, but make sure that the back of your jacket falls below your seat. Sleeve length is a very personal thing. Some guys like to show sleeve cuff while others prefer not. If you like to show a little cuff , make sure to show about 3/8 to 1/2, anything more than that will make your jacket sleeve length seem way too short. If you are not a fan of showing cuff , then make sure your jacket sleeve length falls right where the biggest part of your thumb begins, right below your wrist.
From left to right:
Sleeve is way too long.
Perfect amount of shirt cuff shown here
Sleeve is way too short.
The most contemporary style right now is the flat front trouser , no cuffs with a slight break. (Yes, showing socks is definitely a plus, so make sure you wear the nice ones!)
The more classic and elegant way to wear a pair of trouser is pleated with a cuff. It is definitely more of a retro look . If you are going to go with this style, the trick to making it more modern is to wear it with a 1 to 2 cuff with a very narrow bottom and a slight break.
One thing the Brits know how to do well is wear a good suit - and we have certainly not been short of sartorial inspiration during the celebrations. The chap that has stood out to me the most as looking especially suave at every occasion of the Olympics is David Beckham.
Beckham has played a role in the journey of the Olympic torch since May when it was brought from Athens to the UK at the start of the Torch Relay. As shown above Beckham went for a , the texture of which gives a little more depth to the without the need for a or .
A beautifully tailored suit, David wears a single breasted, two button jacket with notched lapels, double vents and straight flapped pockets paired with straight leg trousers. The pale pink shirt with black contrast tie works perfectly. You'll struggle to find Beckham without a Tie-pin when wearing a day suit- love it!. When the torch arrived in Britain David Beckham accompanied Princess Anne and Lord Coe, the chairman of the London Organising Committee for the Olympic Games. They had the honour of lighting the cauldron to celebrate the flame's official arrival. For this special occasion he returned to a notched collar and selected a darker suit colour, going with a navy.
Unlike a lot of enthusiastic cyclist I came late to apprieciating the beauty of the bike. For various reason I did not own a bike past the age of a about ten so my real first experience of cycling as a form of travel was at the ripe old age of 25! I was interning for a design company in London and need a cheap and fast way of getting there.
My super healthy friend suggested I get myself a bike, thus beginning my love of cycling. Now I have got used to the roads in London I feel safe enough to survey my surroundings.
I myself tend not to wear my suit on my way to work but you would surprised the amount of people that do. My old studio manager, our very own David Minns always cycles to work wearing a three piece suit. This dapper gent has even been know to cycle down the street, one hand on the handle bars and the other holding aloft his beautiful vintage umbrella, I kid you not!
With this in mind, if you are more like David than me and wish to don your dapper suit while hurtling through traffic there are a few things you need to remember. Firstly, I would definitely invest in some good bicycle clips for your trousers. This will stop you legs getting catch in the spokes and keep your suits immaculate. I would suggest a more tapered trouser purely for this reason and try and stick to a light weight cloth as cycling can be hot work. Another thing to remember, that I know David Minns swears blind by is to ask for more space across the back of your suit jacket. Tailoring is the art of controlling the body within clothes, for this reason it is not always the most cycle friendly active so extra room across the back is always welcome.
A great option for ladies is to go with separates. A lovely summer dress with a suit jacket, keeps you cool for summer but smart for work. Another option would be to have an A line suit skirt or go with trousers.
But don't forget about your luggage! What about a stylish removable basket for your handbag? Or maybe like this gent you could just sling you briefcase over the handlebars and hope for the best. Great for Amsterdam but I fear this could be a bit more hair raising in a city not know for it's cycle friendly roads!
It's not just about cycling in a suit, what about cycling in an overcoat? Many a time I have been pelting it along the road and all of a sudden the heavens open up and the rain begins to fall, usually as I've just embarked on a half an hour cycle! Sometimes a mac just doesn't cut it, they keep you dry but unlike an overcoat they don't keep you warm. I would advice going for a medium, to light weight cloth though as cycling can sometimes by hard work and soon makes you steam. And what about the accessories? When I design tailored garments with my customers I always try and picture the scene. If a gent wants a casual jacket in tweed, where is he going to wear it? With what trousers is he matching it with and what scarf? Every detail should be consider. In that vain I love the photo below. This gent has teamed his two piece beige tweed suit with a vintage looking bike and the ice on the cake are his fingerless gloves, perfect for a country tailored look.
I feel it's appropriate to begin my first post in several weeks with a confession. So here it is - I am short. Really very short - 5'1'' on a good day. On the rare occasions that I confess this statistic to acquaintances, I am often met with surprise - sure, people know I'm short, but most don't seem to realise quite how short I am.
Why is this, you may ask? Well, I have to confess that big hair, big heels and a direct personality certainly help, but it's also down to what I wear.
If, like me, you are on the more petite side then there are lots of dressing tricks you can use to disguise this fact. Dressing a short or petite body can be challenging if you are shopping on the high street, but it's not as hard as you might think. Here are my top tips for the vertically challenged (a lot of these tips are also appropriate for slim builds, regardless of height). 1) Fit
This is absolutely crucial. Wearing properly fitting garments is the single most effective thing that you can do to downplay the fact that you are lacking in the height department. One of the biggest 'give aways' that you are short are garments that are too large and long - perfectly cut and fitted tailored items will do more for you than a pair of 'lift its' ever will.
- Always go for a slim fit shirts, jackets and trousers even if you are not used to it. Don't drown your smaller from frame in too much fabric - keep it tailored and neat. Our bespoke suits and shirts are made exactly to your measurements are and ideal.
- Too-long sleeves, trousers and, most importantly, jackets will draw attention to your size; conversely correct proportions will conceal.
- A petit man in a too-long jacket will always look like a teenager in a hand-me-down - make sure that your jacket comes no lower than your crotch in front only just covers your seat.
- avoid low waisted trousers, as they shorten the legs.
-trouser hems can be 0.5 longer than 'standard' to add extra length to the legs, but should under no circumstances bunch up at the back! Similarly, suit sleeves can be a little longer than the standard so long as you maintain that perfect 0.5 of cuff.
2) ProportionAn oft-forgotten contributor to overall look, the proportions of your garment should be considered second only to fit. If all the details of your clothing are proportional to your frame then it's harder for the frame to look small.
- avoid any outsize details such as chunky belts, big buttons or wide lapels. A lightly narrowed lapel is flattering on a compact, slim gentleman.
- Petite ladies should consider short, hip-length jackets and high-waisted skirts to lengthen the legs; tall heels paired with long trousers will also give you inches. Generally I find straight trousers (wide or slim) more leg-lengthening than bootcut.
3) StyleAlways think neat, clean, and streamlined - don't overwhelm your small frame with extras.
- For jackets, stick to one or two button fastenings; their longer lapels lengthen the torso. Ladies should go for a sharp, nipped-in one-button blazer.
- Slanted pockets on the jacket lengthen the upper body.
- Chose 3 rather than 4 buttons on the sleeve to maintain proportion with arm length.
- Avoid ticket pockets that clutter the torso.
- Chose side adjusters on your trousers. Wearing a belt shortens the legs and creates an unwanted horizontal line right across the torso; beltless trousers with no loops create a cleaner look and allow the eye to run right down the body, creating an illusion of extra height
- Flat-fronted slim cut trousers lengthen and streamline the legs.
- No more than 2 pockets on waistcoats! As always, avoid extra horizontal lines
- ladies - avoid frou-frou styles with lots of fabric
4) Colour and fabricIt's a myth that short people should wear only dark colours - it doesn't add any inches! However, I do recommend that shorter people avoid large, busy patterns and stick with more subtle alternatives and plain colours (for example, I own very few printed items).
- patterns with vertical details, such as a herringbone, work better on shorter frames than other patterns such as birdeyes and checks; I recommend our RTallwool-100215 range
- patterns should always be proportional - so look for smaller herringbones and closer, finer pinstripes. Large patterns can overwhelm small frames.
- for shirts, chose a stripe over a check
- generally, avoid heavy, bulky fabrics
5) WardrobeAll these tips are all very well but what about putting it all together? Careful wardrobe planning is the icing on the cake for the perfect petit look.
- Keep it clean and uncluttered - don't have too much going on in your outfit at once. A patterned suit should be paired with a plainer shirt and tie, and vice versa
- Similarly, don't bring in too many colour families. Keeping things in the same 'tone' adds a lean, uncluttered air
- Exercise careful use of accessories.
- A tailored suit is an ideal garment for a petit man, simply because having the top half of the body matching the bottom lengthens things out. Ladies - this tip goes for you, too!
- For jeans, stick with more slim, tailored styles. Avoid both low-rise skinny jeans and bulky, baggy styles with lots of pockets.
- Be wary of the garment layering that is oh-so-popular in modern times - it breaks up the body.
- A simple sheath dress is a great choice for ladies
- Match your socks to your trousers, and some advocate matching your shoes as well. (Personally, I like an interesting shoe so I disregard this tip with relish).
For further advice and help with wardrobe planning, just drop me an email to email@example.com or book an appointment with me in our City Road branch.
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