A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> Size
I feel it's appropriate to begin my first post in several weeks with a confession. So here it is - I am short. Really very short - 5'1'' on a good day. On the rare occasions that I confess this statistic to acquaintances, I am often met with surprise - sure, people know I'm short, but most don't seem to realise quite how short I am.
Why is this, you may ask? Well, I have to confess that big hair, big heels and a direct personality certainly help, but it's also down to what I wear.
If, like me, you are on the more petite side then there are lots of dressing tricks you can use to disguise this fact. Dressing a short or petite body can be challenging if you are shopping on the high street, but it's not as hard as you might think. Here are my top tips for the vertically challenged (a lot of these tips are also appropriate for slim builds, regardless of height). 1) Fit
This is absolutely crucial. Wearing properly fitting garments is the single most effective thing that you can do to downplay the fact that you are lacking in the height department. One of the biggest 'give aways' that you are short are garments that are too large and long - perfectly cut and fitted tailored items will do more for you than a pair of 'lift its' ever will.
- Always go for a slim fit shirts, jackets and trousers even if you are not used to it. Don't drown your smaller from frame in too much fabric - keep it tailored and neat. Our bespoke suits and shirts are made exactly to your measurements are and ideal.
- Too-long sleeves, trousers and, most importantly, jackets will draw attention to your size; conversely correct proportions will conceal.
- A petit man in a too-long jacket will always look like a teenager in a hand-me-down - make sure that your jacket comes no lower than your crotch in front only just covers your seat.
- avoid low waisted trousers, as they shorten the legs.
-trouser hems can be 0.5 longer than 'standard' to add extra length to the legs, but should under no circumstances bunch up at the back! Similarly, suit sleeves can be a little longer than the standard so long as you maintain that perfect 0.5 of cuff.
2) ProportionAn oft-forgotten contributor to overall look, the proportions of your garment should be considered second only to fit. If all the details of your clothing are proportional to your frame then it's harder for the frame to look small.
- avoid any outsize details such as chunky belts, big buttons or wide lapels. A lightly narrowed lapel is flattering on a compact, slim gentleman.
- Petite ladies should consider short, hip-length jackets and high-waisted skirts to lengthen the legs; tall heels paired with long trousers will also give you inches. Generally I find straight trousers (wide or slim) more leg-lengthening than bootcut.
3) StyleAlways think neat, clean, and streamlined - don't overwhelm your small frame with extras.
- For jackets, stick to one or two button fastenings; their longer lapels lengthen the torso. Ladies should go for a sharp, nipped-in one-button blazer.
- Slanted pockets on the jacket lengthen the upper body.
- Chose 3 rather than 4 buttons on the sleeve to maintain proportion with arm length.
- Avoid ticket pockets that clutter the torso.
- Chose side adjusters on your trousers. Wearing a belt shortens the legs and creates an unwanted horizontal line right across the torso; beltless trousers with no loops create a cleaner look and allow the eye to run right down the body, creating an illusion of extra height
- Flat-fronted slim cut trousers lengthen and streamline the legs.
- No more than 2 pockets on waistcoats! As always, avoid extra horizontal lines
- ladies - avoid frou-frou styles with lots of fabric
4) Colour and fabricIt's a myth that short people should wear only dark colours - it doesn't add any inches! However, I do recommend that shorter people avoid large, busy patterns and stick with more subtle alternatives and plain colours (for example, I own very few printed items).
- patterns with vertical details, such as a herringbone, work better on shorter frames than other patterns such as birdeyes and checks; I recommend our RTallwool-100215 range
- patterns should always be proportional - so look for smaller herringbones and closer, finer pinstripes. Large patterns can overwhelm small frames.
- for shirts, chose a stripe over a check
- generally, avoid heavy, bulky fabrics
5) WardrobeAll these tips are all very well but what about putting it all together? Careful wardrobe planning is the icing on the cake for the perfect petit look.
- Keep it clean and uncluttered - don't have too much going on in your outfit at once. A patterned suit should be paired with a plainer shirt and tie, and vice versa
- Similarly, don't bring in too many colour families. Keeping things in the same 'tone' adds a lean, uncluttered air
- Exercise careful use of accessories.
- A tailored suit is an ideal garment for a petit man, simply because having the top half of the body matching the bottom lengthens things out. Ladies - this tip goes for you, too!
- For jeans, stick with more slim, tailored styles. Avoid both low-rise skinny jeans and bulky, baggy styles with lots of pockets.
- Be wary of the garment layering that is oh-so-popular in modern times - it breaks up the body.
- A simple sheath dress is a great choice for ladies
- Match your socks to your trousers, and some advocate matching your shoes as well. (Personally, I like an interesting shoe so I disregard this tip with relish).
For further advice and help with wardrobe planning, just drop me an email to email@example.com or book an appointment with me in our City Road branch.
Ill put you in the picture.You had your Initial Measuring 6-8 weeks ago. You chose the fabric, cut and design details youve always wanted on a suit. You have been imagining all the flirtatious glances you will soon receive due to the nature of your now excruciatingly sharp exterior.
Youve already spent the money you got with your promotion, had a fulfilling life with your hot wife/husband and are already planning the next suit! I am a sucker for getting impatient and living beyond the point I have not yet reached and so I bring you a little on what to expect at your first fitting and from there onwards.
The suit you will try on has been carefully handcrafted from the skin measurements plus the level of tolerance that together with your Style Advisor you decided on. It will be one of ultra fitted, slim or relaxed. The tolerance I refer to will be the extra inches we add to the skin measurements taken to dictate how far from your skin the suit lies. Most people will choose slim. This will give the wearer a nice silhouette yet allow them to function as humans in their suit. There would be nothing worse than having a great looking suit while you stood, arms relaxed to find that any movement seriously hampered the future possibility of having kids, or ripping through your jacket like the incredible hulk.
This is a particularly bad move if you are female. 50% of our customers find that this finely tuned level of tolerance is perfect. They will take their suit away at the first fitting, usually taking advantage of the 20% off we offer if you order on the day of collection. Others will need levels of fitting depending on their requirements. This can be due to what you wore on the day of measuring. Denim and trainers use a bit more of the Style Advisors eye to get perfect and it may be a case that the only alteration you need is a perfection of the trouser length. Together with the Style Advisor that is present at the time of first fitting you will decide what may need doing to the garments to tweak them to perfection. As there really is no right or wrong, only levels of personal preference and historical guidelines it really is a decision that you will easily reach with you Style Advisor. The historical guidelines I refer to include the length of a jacket covering the crotch and seat, the sleeve length falling to the point on your arm at where the wrist and thumb meet and the trouser length showing a slight break on the front but little to none at the back of the shoe. These guidelines, unless discussed with your Measuring Tailor at the point of Initial Measurements, will all be inherent in the measurements taken. It then comes to personal taste. This suit is made for you. It is a bespoke garment, therefore, make it your own! If you require a bit more room in the waist, tell us. If your trousers are not long enough, tell us. If you plan on a diet of pies and ale to put on a healthy 2 stone......well, maybe not.....
The main thing to take with you to your first fitting appointment is that a bespoke suit is a work in progress. It may take 4 fittings, it may take none! What is important, though, is that once the first suit fits you, your personality and your budget, every future suit will follow suit (pun, most definitely intended) Bear in mind that different, even equally weighted, fabrics can act differently on the body, though.
We, at A Suit That Fits.com, will always keep your profile updated so that it reflects your latest suit. This leaves you with the fun part of creating.....have a look at some of our limited edition fabrics to get started!!!
Firstly lets dis-spell a couple of myths larger guys often have when choosing suits. Pictured below is the suit that we made for the tallest man in the world, Sultan Kosen.
Its quite the opposite, lighter weight fabrics will not sit as well with larger frames and contours of body as a heavier weight. If you are of a grand scale, vertically and/or horizontally a heavier weight fabric such as our WR, HAB, FLA ranges will hang a lot better on your body.
2.Bigger patterns make larger people look bigger.
The size of a pattern should corrialate with the size of your body, (for example a chalk stripe will look infinitely better on you than a pin stripe).
A chalk stripe such as CB-700026 range, tweeds for checks such as 91003 and for herringbones the HAB.
A few top tips for styling,
1. Softer tailoring will suit a rounded physic better. Gently contoured more in the american style, think Danny De Vito.
2. Wearing a darker shirt will make your torso look slimmer.
3. If you also have quite a rounded face and neck go for a pointed collar (such as our spread 1), as opposed to a cutaway (spread 5). A longer collar will serve to elongate your neck, a cut-away will widen it.
4. Where braces, larger guys often complain their trousers never sit where they want them to. Trousers that sit as near to the waist as possible are more flattering as opposed to under it (these will shorten your legs and make your stomach look fuller). Choose our brace buttons and side adjuster options.
5. Always go for pleats in your trousers, this will give you more room and comfort when you are sitting down.
6. Avoid shirts that are too loose or too tight. Too loose will make you look even bigger, too tight and you may be bulging out in places youd rather not.
7. A shawl collar for a dinner jacket will suit your body shape better than a peaked collar.
Some of us dont have the luxury of being able to fit into the high streets sartorial offerings. For some of us, retailers dont cater. By us I mean- and how to put this gently- those who have enjoyed life.
When it comes to it, your style advisor wont lie to you- they cant, your suit wouldnt fit! Honesty is the best policy when it comes to something that will not hide but hopefully give structure to your shape.
To create the best suit for each individual customer we need simple honesty from the start. So when we ask where you like your trousers to sit on your body- if you like them under your belly, keep them there!. Although a slim body will always be easier to cater for, there are certain rules that help the larger gent. For starters, it is usually best, even if it keeps you a little warmer, to opt for a slightly heavier fabric. Our herringbone fabrics are a great weight at 320g and are a timeless classic also. The reason behind this is that the weight of the fabric will limit the suits natural tendency to crease.
So where as, on a 280g suit or a delicate silk blend, the fabric may crease at certain points, the weightier fabric would fold and keep its shape better. Try not to give in and drown your body in fabric. Keep the sleeve length sensible. I would certainly suggest adding a touch of length to the jacket. It will have to go over the tummy and then fall nicely. The extra length will keep it from looking like you are bursting out of the jacket.
When it comes to how many buttons, whether pin stripes suit your shape, does a double breasted make me look larger we really need to refer to the old adage that with confidence most people can pull most things off. The one thing that would be a good idea is to perhaps keep the fabric colour dark. Lighter fabrics always show more shadow and therefore accentuate any curves, lumps and bumps.
With this advice and a confident attitude you will look good in a suit as long as it is made to fit you.
Just remember that once you have been measured, dont go to the gym or your suit will not fit!!
Yesterday the Guinness World Records as part of the 2010 Edition launch announced Sultan Kosen the new record holder for the world's Tallest Man at 8 ft 1 Inch (246.5cm). His inside leg measured 44.5 inches, and his sleeve length was 38 inches.
Here at A Suit That Fits.com were so proud to have had the opportunity to make Sultan his first made-to-measure bespoke suit. At the height of 8ft 1 inch (246.
5cm), this was an extremely tall order for us at A Suit That Fits.com but the team were confident that they could create a suit that Sultan would cherish and love, as well as being perfectly fitted for him. Sultan mentioned that he finds it difficult to find clothes that fit him so we were spurred on by the challenge of making him a garment that fits him like a glove. Sultan wanted a cool contemporary suit that was still classic an wearable, so we created a beautiful two piece suit in blue pinstripe with a beautiful light blue silk lining and contrast stitching on the lapel button hole. Sultan agreed that the look and feel of a hand-made suit, tailored just for you is something that is second to none.
Sultan was so shocked to have found something that finally fit him perfectly. When asked how he felt about the suit Sultan said 'My suit is absolutely beautiful it's a treasured gift from above'. Johnny Harrison, our chief style adviser at our West End branch, who assisted in the design for Sultan's suit, said that it was important not to drown him. 'We really wanted to follow his form with this suit, and a small pinstripe was great for this' said Johnny 'It was clear from Sultan's reaction to the suit that he'd never had an outfit tailor-made to fit him properly before'. Here is a picture of Claire (standing on the ground) and Myself (standing on a chair) when we got a chance to meet Sultan and congratulate him on his new title. He shook both of our hands and thanked us for his suit which he has worn out for three days solid.
To see what Suit attributes Sultan went for click here
No doubt your first suit from A Suit That Fits will fit perfectly, but just so you know what to look for (and what the staff are looking for) here are some tips on how it should sit on you.
All of these points are subject to personal taste and fashion. This is a description of the fit of a classic suit worn to today's tastes. Its closest historical archetype is probably the Drape. Shoulders: If the shoulders are too narrow for you, you will see the swell of your shoulder muscle pushing against the material at the top of the sleeve. There may also be stretch lines running across the material and an indentation at the top of the sleeve. These lines can also be a sign that the sleeve is too narrow for you.
If the suit is too big, its shoulders will extend in a ledge beyond your own. To fit properly, there should be a clean, direct line from the edge of the suit's shoulder to the edge of yours, just skirting the skin.
Collar: The collar of the suit, at the back of your neck, should sit flush with the collar of your shirt, leaving between one and two inches of shirt above the suit (depending on the height of your collar). If there is too much material across the back, the collar will stand away from your neck. If there is too little, the collar will be flush with your shirt and there will be folds running horizontally below the collar where the cloth is stretched.
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