A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> Pocket Square
DANDY: A man who places particular importance upon physical appearance, refined language, and leisurely hobbies, pursued with the appearance of nonchalance in a cult of Self. It has come to my attention that young men have again been taking up the mantra of the Dandy.
I have been pushing for this at work for some time now with the end goal of making all men appreciate the beauty of tailoring. Although an unconventional dresser myself, I think there is just something so amazing about suiting.
If I could be a boy for a day I would don a tweed three piece suit with braces, a pocket square, vintage umbrella and socks to match. Alas, I am a traditional hourglass shaped girl and although a three piece can look amazing on women, (my manager Liz is a perfect example of this) there is something so sharp about a fitted waistcoat on a man, but it is not just about the suit or waistcoat. Being a Dandy is about the whole package, it's about the attitude as much as the clothes. It's all about the appearance of absolute confidence!.
The Power Suit.
Going for a job interview? Need to look impeccably smart for your current job? Need to impress in that upcoming business meeting? Three words come to mind: The Power Suit.
Not only is the power suit an undoubtedly smart choice but it proves to everyone that you know your stuff and you mean business!
The most common colour I see selected for a power suit is navy blue however; you can opt for black or even a dark grey (your choice!). I think navy blue is commonly selected because it is a versatile colour and works with most complexions and body shapes. Navy blue is also a good colour to opt for because it works well with most colours, meaning it won't be hard to accessories your suit.
Patterns on a power suit are not really heard of other than the standard pinstripe. I would suggest keeping the colour on the pinstripe as near to neutral as possible and opt for a white or light pastel colour if you fancy being a bit more adventurous. Keeping the look low-key will create that sartorial edge.
With your power suit, it's important to get the accessories right too. Team your suit with a bespoke, crisp white shirt. This will ensure that even if you take your jacket off you still look smart. Add a coloured tie (red is a good choice), a pocket square and smart shoes.
Here is a picture of a power suit. Very dapper indeed!
Here are a couple of tips to help you create your very own bespoke power suit to impress whatever the occasion:
Opt for a two button jacket
Always wear the bottom button of your jacket undone
Ask for a notched collar style
Make sure your lapel width is not too narrow as it could make you look out of proportion
Having straight flapped pockets helps to keep the look clean and sharp
Show a little cuff (it will make your arms look longer!)
Make sure your tie is the same width as your lapels as this will help keep your look in balance.
Opting for a coloured tie and pocket square adds a pop of colour to your suit
Make sure the colour of your shoes compliments the colour tones in your suit and accessories
Make sure your shoes are clean and tidy!
They say that clothes maketh the man - I'm of the opinion that accessories maketh the suit!Though summer is traditionally wedding high-season, here in the South West we do things a little differently, and my grooms are only just trying on their suits for the first time and considering what accessories to compliment their whistles come their Autumn weddings.
When I'm measuring a groom for a , the accessory (if one can consider an accessory) that I'm most interested in is his ; why? Because will dictate the cut of the trouser leg at the ankle more often than not, and once we have the cut of the trousers and the taken care if we're almost at the alter!For example; the hem of one's trousers will ideally hover .
50 .75 above the heel of traditional heeled-shoes - though this will depend how narrow the ankle of the trousers is as a narrow width will not sit as low so bear this in mind if you have sock-phobia!Above the arch of the shoe i.e. the laces, there should be no more than a single break - the dent in the crease of your trousers at shin-level.If slip-ons, trainers or flip-flops - I'm a fan by the way - are to be worn then the trousers ought be bootcut and longer in length i.e. inline with the heel of your foot.Shirt The shirt must complement the suit colour, for example; ivory coloured shirts will provide a softer, more traditional, or vintage, look for grey, black or blue suits, whereas white will give a sharper, more classic look.
Whichever you choose, ensure the shirt colour does not clash with the wedding dress colour - if in doubt choose white, better still, take advice from your betrothed!Tie In most cases the colour of the tie is the same as the wedding colour-scheme i.e. the colour of the bridesmaids dresses and flowers, and, ergo, some thought should be given to the wedding suit cloth at an early stage to ensure the tie complements the suit itself.Some thought should also be given to the colour of the shirt as it will provide the backdrop for the tie.Whilst narrow-ties have enjoyed a renaissance of late, be sure to wear a tie that is proportionate to your frame - I'll say no more.Pocket Square or corsage: That is the question Whilst I am of the school of thought that believes that a pocket square/silk-handkerchief or pochette - call it what you will - is required to complete the look of a suit, they may be superfluous to requirements on the big day if you are to wear a corsage. Let taste be your guide, but I see no harm in carrying your pocket square wit you and whipping-it out for the reception to give your suit a more evening appeal!Fob watchIf wearing a 3pc suit - without doubt the most popular style of suit for weddings, in my book at least - it is an almost natural inclination to want to adorn it with a fob watch, as our forebears would have when 3pc suits were de rigueur and chunky time pieces had not even been thought of by scuba divers - nor had the aqualung for that matter!And why not, there are some fabulous fob watches around, both antique and new. Of course, if you're lucky enough to have been passed-down your grandfather's fob watch, then I think there can be no better compliment to one's wedding suit.Whatever you choose to wear with your suit, ensure the colours of the accessories compliment the suit, and that your suit compliments your brides dress. You may only be in attendance to make up numbers, but revel in what you wear to the party and dont' forget the most important wedding accessory of all.a cigar!. My thanks to Craig and Jackie Pask for allowing me to use this photo of Craig looking ever so debonair at their wedding, and also to Hana Lee , Craig's style advisor.
How to suit your shape
The thought of getting a bespoke suit made can be a daunting one; especially if it's your first. So, here a few hints and tips for you gents to help you create the perfect bespoke suit.
An untailored suit that is too long in the sleeves and jacket length will swamp your shape and make you look smaller than you actually are. This is the same for your shirt. Your shirt should fit like a second skin so when you remove your jacket you still look just as suave. You can avoid your suit and shirts being too big by going bespoke. There's nothing quite like having a suit made just for you!
How to make sure you bespoke suit fits perfectly
Going for a two button jacket with a notched lapel instantly makes you look slimmer as it puts the first button on the widest part of your body. Wearing your jacket just under your seat will lengthen your torso and make you look taller. Showing some shirt cuff from under your jacket not only looks very smart but also lengthens the look of your arms.
When you sit down, your trousers should not pull (if they do they are too tight) but, nor should they feel like they have lots of room if they do, have them taken in. In regards to the trouser length, there should be one break as they hit your shoe. If there's more than one break they are too long for you and will therefore make you look shorter than you are.
Wearing a pocket square brings focus to your chest and adds pops of colour and personality making your suit something different and the talking point of the office!
Using these hints and tips will make sure that you bespoke suit fits like a glove and you look as dapper and the gent in picture above. If you would like some further help and advice, feel free to book an appointment with me here in Manchester, Leeds, Liverpool, Sheffield Chester.
Jim is a gentleman, and a chap. He appreciates the finer things in life, like fine suits, bespoke tailoring (by A Suit That Fits, naturally) pocket squares from Aspinal and contrasting ties.
Jim has friends in high places, and also friends who, like Jim, appreciate the finer things in life.
Jim's current suit of choice - as sported here by the man himself - is a navy Prince of Wales check, with contrasting blue lining and is hot-off the cutting table.
Jim is one of an increasing number of aspiring chaps who have learned that 'going bespoke ' is not only attainable but an easier journey to embark upon than one might think; it's simply a matter of finding a tailor who is right for you.
You too can find just such a tailor in Bristol, Birmingham, Cardiff, Exeter, Manchester, Liverpool, Norwich, Brighton, Leeds, Newcastle, Aberdeen, Edinburgh and myriad other locations that A Suit That Fits has set-up shop.
With summer slowly creeping into London bit by bit there are lots of events to look forward to. A myriad of festivals, racing events and galas take place in our capital not to mention the surrounding counties.
Why not take advantage of our quick turnaround available this June and get yourself a linen suit for summer!. Other things that you can do to give it that timeless dandy summer look is to add brace buttons and a waistcoat, this I assure you will make you the talk of the town.
We would suggest adding a tie pin for a stylish finish!
Brandon dressing fore-sure for a day in the office as Clarke Kent! Slightly disheveled or could he be heading for the blue red! May be a power plant is in melt down near by?.
We surely can't mention Superman with out looking back at the late great talented actor Christopher Reeve who took on the red blue suit for 4 outings, from 1978 to 1987!
The nationwide prohibition on alcohol was ignored by many. There was a revolution in almost every part of human activity. Fashion was no exception!
From left to right we have an elegant evening suit with a wider lapel creating a wider shoulder shape with a narrow waist created by a low fitted waistcoat.
Next we have a morning suit , with contrasting footwear to set off the contrast waistcoat! Please also note the use of the peaked lapel again for that statement look!
Then we move onto our third outfit a tweed jacket with a notch lapel and contrast waistcoat and fashionable bow tie in front of a white collar on a blue shirt! If you look closely even though it's the same model his shoulders look slimmer! As your eye line is drawn to his waistcoat and bow tie! A slightly less formal attire!
Finally we have a contrasting Jacket, these are known as either boating jackets or even a smoking Jacket! After dinner attire the simple pocket square colour co-ordinates the light coloured trousers for a formal look! Darker colours are used on the torso for a slender looking silhouette!
Mr Dicaprio we can certainly say you have dressed suitably for the era and stand shoulder to shoulder with your predecessors below! It would'nt be right not to mention the previous elegant gentlemen who have also played Jay Gatsby! Alan Ladd, the dashing Robert Redford and our own Toby Stephens! They all look so elegant! Contrasting colours also used with bespoke tailoring can set you apart from the normal attire!
We've been waiting for the biggest music award show in the UK, and it has come and gone! BRITs 2013 has brought the music world together just for one night at the 02 London. As anticipated, all the celebrities turned up looking very elegant and sophisticated- with few exceptions; I can't explain what happened.
Perhaps their stylist isn't on the same wavelength- you can make up your own conclusions. However, the gents on the red carpet at this year's BRITs Awards are certainly not opting for subdued looks.
There's no doubt they'd have tried on numerous suits and considered countless accessories to finish off their desired looks. First up, we've the man of the moment, Justin Timberlake. He arrived ahead of his performance sporting a classic grey two piece suit with peak lapels. He wore this with a brilliant white shirt with collar bar. The 'Suit and Tie ' singer finished off his style with a classic black tie which acts as a focal point and a printed pocket square. Although he looked a bit spooked out on the red carpet, this gifted and talented individual delivered a great performance on stage.
Justin Timberlake hits the stage for his performance donning a dinner jacket in a reversal of the traditional black jacket with satin lapels. He opted for matt shawl lapels with gleaming jacket . To complete his look, he wore a white dress shirt with studs and oversized bow tie. Pictured here, we've the JLS lads all looking very dapper in their three piece suits - look at their shoes too! It's obvious these lads have paid attention to the details, just like their music. Despite being snubbed in the nominations, JLS made an outstanding appearance; displaying attributes of bespoke tailoring . In the mix, we have peak lapels , shawl lapels , notched lapels , slanted pockets and contrasting lapels and pockets. Their choice of fabrics reflects the versatility of their music- from tweed to checks and solid colour. For representing the best of British tailoring, kudos to their stylists!. Seen any style you like? Book an appointment to see one of our Style Advisors.
Here at tailoring HQ, we can't get enough of Bradley Wiggins' mod style. From the sideburns to the double breasted numbers and sharp pocket squares , the nation's favourite cyclist really is a style force to be reckoned with!.
And we just couldn't get enough of the number he sported (no pun intended) for the Sports Personality of the Year Awards 2012.
From the double breasted style, to the contrast buttons, dapper pocket, square and peaked lapel - it was all spot on - and stood out for all the right reasons.
And it's strikingly similar to one of the styles in our gallery - so you know where to come to get the dapper look!
If you want to hear more of Wiggins talking about his style, here's an interview with GQ magazine .
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