A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> Pea Coat
The double breasted suit.some would say is a bit like our marmite suit - you will either love or hate it! At A Suit That Fits we can indeed confirm that dapper gents and ladies around town are falling in love with this nifty rogue all over again.
Let's take a peek at the double-breasted. DB refers to a coat or jacket with wide, overlapping front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons; one column of buttons is decorative while the other is functional, allowing the overlap to fasten reversibly, right lapel over left lapel.
To strengthen the fastening, a functional inner-button, called the jigger, is usually added to parallel-fasten the over-lapped layers together from the inside. Suit jackets and blazers typically have one to four rows of buttons (each row containing two buttons), one or two of the rows functional the others are decorative. Each fastening method is identified using number-on-number terminology; the first number is the total number of front buttons, the second is the number of fastening buttons below the lapels (i.e. the second number also is the number of corresponding buttonholes). Six-on-two and six-on-one (as shown in the picture on the right) are the common button stances, but others exist.
Stylistically, double-breasted suit jackets usually have peaked lapels, and fasten left lapel over right lapel as usual for men's jackets. A double-breasted jacket can have two vents at the back or none. A single vent does not properly belong on a double-breasted jacket. The original double-breasted jacket has six buttons, with three to close. This originated from the naval reefer jacket. Because shorter men may find that six buttons overwhelms their shorter torso, a four or six button configuration in which only the bottom one fastens may be a better option. The four-button double-breasted jacket that buttons at the lower button is often called the , after the man who made it popular - the Duke of Kent. Double-breasted suit jackets were popular from the mid 1930's until the late 1950's, and again from the mid 1980's to the mid 1990's.
Moreover, the overcoats - pea coat and trench coat are traditionally double-breasted; the single-breasted versions being civilian interpretations of a military fashion. Due to the double-breasted jacket's construction, it is usually not recommended to wear it unbuttoned, unlike the single-breasted overcoat or jacket, which can be left open or unbuttoned.
Double Breasted Jacket Accessories
Either a necktie or bowtie may be worn with a double-breasted jacket. But men should avoid wearing the jacket without a neck accessory, due to the formality of the jacket. One may also choose to add a pocket square to add colour and/or texture to the jacket. So bespoke fans, will you be adding a double breasted suit to the wardrobe?
So the West End has been a buzzing recently. We find ourselves in colder, harder times. Without being melodramatic this does affect the way some of us dress.
I do not include myself in this statement as I love lighter weight suiting fabrics , even if it is Autumn! Most people will, however, look to opt for medium to heavier weighted fabrics, to primarily keep the cold at bay, but also to achieve a firmer hanging jacket. Also we have seen the obvious rise in demand for overcoats ! The cashmere is proving as popular as ever. It really does have a luxurious quality given its lustre. I have, myself, plumped for a tweedy type number. Looking forward to its arrival very soon! This will also allow me to wear my lighter weight suiting fabric as I can simply slip my overcoat over my coat! (The jacket part of a suit used to be called a coat, therefore an overcoat becomes very logical).
Soon, very soon I will be heading out to a London based fabric supplier to source some exquisite fabrics. They will become part of our limited edition range of which there are some already on our site. Check the existing limited edition fabrics here . If you have any requests then I would love to hear what people would be interested in! Email through suggestions to firstname.lastname@example.org with CT Suggestion as your subject.
I look forward to hearing from you all soon!
Cold Winter evenings, as Oscar Wilde once said Conversation about the weather is the last refuge of the unimaginative. so instead of spending nights out breaking the ice with conversations about.ice, why not walk in the room and instantly turn the chat into where you got that phenomenal looking suit.
Winter can be a time of harsh weather but incredibly high fashion, many more options for materials and choices for numerous layers, I have already written about Velvets ( ) so I will not reiterate what I have already said, But think Jackets with Jeans, thick Flannel materials for suits ( ) and double breasted jackets to wrap up tight.
Another great way to beat the cold would be to opt for one of our overcoats , this past weekend I took a trundle up, down and around Regent Street looking at different styles of winter coats. There are definitely some nice ones out at the moment .but, I have no idea what body shape they have been cut for, all ranging in abnormally large armholes, huge waists and massively out of proportion arm sizes and lengths. I would have been immensely saddened by the whole experience, had it not just been reconnaissance to determine what length I wanted my overcoat to be. But I am safe in the knowledge that when I get my new overcoat it will hug every contour of my body in gorgeous cashmere.
Following up on my last post on the inspiration for bespoke that can come from other designers (in that case Domenico Vacca) here are some other great examples,
from Cesare Attolini. In Attolinis case, the genius is combining autumnal and muted colours in a way that constantly rewards examination.
Patterns that complement each other add depth. Colours that complement each other add depth. Imagine the contrast with a simple navy suit, white shirt and grey tie. Elegant, certainly, but it bats off your attentions it is a finely made background to the face but little more. It is the outfit to wear when you are on stage or when you are interviewing for a job; it is the outfit to wear when nothing should distract from you.
Those at Cesare Attolini, by contrast, suck you in. Is there green in that scarf as well as grey? How similar are the little touches of red to the silk handkerchief? The interaction of colour is fascinating.
These remarks refer to the first image above, on the left.It's a very brown outfit. Coat, tie and even (possibly) shirt stripes are brown. Much of the scarf is brown. But your eye goes straight to the red handkerchief, a deep russet that sits comfortably amid brown. Like a small fire in a forest at dusk. And the pattern, the visual interest, is here and in the scarf. We are looking at red and at grey/green against a background of brown.
Also notice how much more extravagant the outfit is with its outerwear: coat (with handkerchief) and scarf. The suit underneath is grey, plain and double-breasted. Coatless, it is sober and ready for business.
Outerwear is often an opportunity in this way, evidence being the gloves featured in recent posts.
Combination number two is more brown, if anything. Brown jumper, brown shirt, brown jacket. The scarf looks similar and provides visual focus, among its reds and mossy greens. But the two keys here are the pattern on the coat and the sea-blue handkerchief. Without pattern, the coat would be drab alongside other browns. With its Glen plaid, everything underneath is background.
And the blue/brown handkerchief is genius. Not an autumnal colour and not the first or second I would have thought of (those would be orange/red and green). But it works.
Green comes into the equation with combination number three. The dark colour, striped in the tie, goes well with brown and particularly against a blue shirt. That tie against white would be too stark.
West End News:
With the colder months approaching and the shop fronts displaying their winter offerings more and more people are realising that the best accompaniment to their fitted suit is a fitted overcoat.
Why should you walk to work looking as unfitted as everyone else only to derobe once in the office and reveal that fitted suit to the people that already see it every day. The key to impeccable style is to introduce it into all aspects of your wardrobe. We have seen everything from the floor length to the pea coat not forgetting everything inbetween.
Among other things our thicker fabrics and our tweeds are also more sought after. A nice intermediary fabric is a tweed check as seen in our review section under tweed separates . It is not too thick and it has a less woolly appearance while still keeping the wearer warm and super stylish!
We also have created an amazing tweed three piece for Steve Monaghan, a columnist on the style blog, Selectism. Steve was very happy with his suit and he took it away first time! We swapped styling tips and had a good old natter!
Johnny The West End Team
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