A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> New Trends
Nothing is sharper than a fine tailored suit . It evokes a certain kind of confidence and I think that is the most important part of a gentleman's wardrobe. However to my surprise, a lot of men get it all wrong when it comes down to the nitty-gritty.
In this blog, I am going to break it down to five simple rules, so you always look your best. Wear a !
If you are going to wear a suit, make sure it's a full suit and a combination of a suit jacket and a pair of trousers . They may be the same color, but the texture and shade can vary dramatically and anyone in the know will be able to tell the difference. Suit trousers always wear out faster than the jacket , so when purchasing a suit , it is always a wise investment to buy an additional pair of trousers.
To button or not to button that is the question most confusing for a lot of guys. Follow these rules and you will never get it wrong again.
Two-button jacket : The rule is very simple here. Never button the bottom button of your jacket ever!
Three-button jacket : The rule here is Sometimes (top button), Always (middle button) and never (bottom button).
Double-breasted jacket : Follow the same rules here as the single breasted jackets. 6x2 double breasted is the most popular style. As seen in the picture, the bottom buttonhole is never buttoned, just like its 2 button single-breasted counterparts. Functional cuffs : A fine tailored suit will always have working buttonholes. In this case, you want to always leave the bottom buttonhole opened. Waistcoat : Does not matter how many button is on the waistcoat . You want to always leave the last buttonhole on your waistcoat opened. Jacket length is very tricky because of the current crop jacket look. Unless you are going for a super trendy look, I recommend you to follow the classic jacket length rule. Jacket length should be half of your total body proportions. This way, you ensure that your seat is always covered, which is the most appropriate for the office. You can go shorter if you like, but make sure that the back of your jacket falls below your seat. Sleeve length is a very personal thing. Some guys like to show sleeve cuff while others prefer not. If you like to show a little cuff , make sure to show about 3/8 to 1/2, anything more than that will make your jacket sleeve length seem way too short. If you are not a fan of showing cuff , then make sure your jacket sleeve length falls right where the biggest part of your thumb begins, right below your wrist.
From left to right:
Sleeve is way too long.
Perfect amount of shirt cuff shown here
Sleeve is way too short.
The most contemporary style right now is the flat front trouser , no cuffs with a slight break. (Yes, showing socks is definitely a plus, so make sure you wear the nice ones!)
The more classic and elegant way to wear a pair of trouser is pleated with a cuff. It is definitely more of a retro look . If you are going to go with this style, the trick to making it more modern is to wear it with a 1 to 2 cuff with a very narrow bottom and a slight break.
Here at A Suit That Fits we are constantly reviewing and updating our products and services, master-minded by Mighel, our product development manger. We have several exciting pieces of news on the product development front, the first of which is that we are proud to introduce our new half-lined jacket option!.
This is the perfect solution for summer jackets when you don't want the thickness of a full lining. Our half-lined jackets have the same piped, 'piano-style' facings as our regular jackets, but only the sleeves and the top of the back are lined.
Throughout the rest of the jacket, the raw seam edges are encased in small tubes of lining fabric, cut on the bias - this beautiful finish is commonly referred to as a 'Hong Kong' or 'French couture' finish. You can chose to have the binding the same fabric as the lining (as pictured), or in a contrasting colour for extra stylistic interest. A half-lined interior is the perfect accompaniment to lightweight summer fabrics such as mohairs and linens; it also works well with our new 'deconstructed' jacket option, which we will cover in our next update!
Eric Musgrave's new book, Sharp Suits is a very welcome addition to the literature on classic men's tailoring. There is precious little of it about.
Alan Flusser dominates the field, with his most recent publication, Dressing the Man, a primer for everyone interested in classic menswear. Indeed, it's so good that I stole from it for the title of my blog the book is subtitled Mastering the Art of Permanent Style.
Beyond Flusser, there are idiosyncratic works like Nicholas Antongiavanni's The Suit and Nicholas Storey's History of Men's Fashion. The first is a job pitch that is entertaining but feels the lack of illustrations; the second is an English barrister's rather particular opinion on clothes, and isn't really much of a history. There are others, but really Flusser is the only one I would recommend without qualification. Until now.
Musgrave's book is superb and should really be titled A History of The Suit; it would have been a more accurate title, though perhaps less appealing. Sharp suits takes the reader through several, from different cultural viewpoints. The first is a basic outline, from Charles II's adoption of the Persian vest (and hence the three-piece suit) through to Armani and Prada. The others look at suit design, royalty, the Italians, the Americans, the French, rock stars and move stars (in that order).
Each chapter is lucidly and sharply written as you'd expect from an ex-editor. But the personal touches are the brightest aspect of the text. Much of the factual timeline I already knew, but hearing about Musgrave's commissioning of a brown, double-breasted suit from a rather frustrated tailor at Burton's, or his recollection of an eighties suit made from cellophane, adds a lot of needed colour.
The other reason to buy this book is the sheer volume and quality of the images. Flusser, as more of a 'how to' book, is illustrated by swatches and examples. Other works lack good photos at all. Indeed, Sharp Suits is probably most similar in aim to Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen's Men of Fashion, a radio show earlier this year that presented a cultural history of menswear. But that sorely lacked pictures. Musgrave's book makes up for it in spades.
If anyone asked me what primers they should read on classic menswear, I would recommend Dressing the Man and Sharp Suits. One is a guide, the other a history; one definitely American, the other more European.
Slim trousers have been in the ascendancy in men's fashion for almost a decade now. From their first daring suggestion on the catwalk, through gradual acceptance as the norm in high-end tailoring, to the point now where it is hard to find anything other than straight or skinny jeans in high-street stores.
This is the end point: as soon as your mate Dave (who knows as much about fashion as he does about French literature Beckham and the three musketeers is about it) is wearing narrow jeans, the trend is finished.
The high street is saturated and the designers are searching for something new. That was the cycle. The next cycle will see a different shape dominate bootcut is the current favourite. But because the cycle is so long, it could last the whole of your twenties. You will identify slim trousers with your youth, and bootcut will seem like a breath of fresh air a more mature, flattering shape. It will seem like an original trend since, even though it was popular in the past, you weren't around to wear it.
The same would be true of baggy jeans or flairs. They may not be original, but that hardly matters. You didn't get to wear them before.
You really only get two of these cycles, possibly three. By the time you are into your thirties, you may stop noticing anything about trends or fashion. And even if you end up wearing the dominant shape of the times (by default, like Dave), you will hardly notice. You may even keep the same pair of jeans for decades many men do.
In my teenage years, bootcut jeans were probably the most fashionable. Hip-hop baggy jeans also had a slightly embarrassing following among white, middle-class kids. For me, therefore, the past decade and its narrow trouser aesthetic has seemed like a maturing time one where straight, slim trousers with suits seemed like the obvious choice. The seemed timeless. Surely they are simply a realisation every man comes to after the follies of youth?
In another five years I will probably be proved wrong. But by then I won't care. Because baby carriers and combination boilers will be taking up much of my retail time; but also because I will have formed this attachment to slim, straight trousers at a formative age one where I had a certain amount of time and disposal income to spend on clothes. It will probably be ingrained in me forever by then.
So don't criticise fashion cycles for being unoriginal. You only get two or three enjoy them while they last.
So the West End has been a buzzing recently. We find ourselves in colder, harder times. Without being melodramatic this does affect the way some of us dress.
I do not include myself in this statement as I love lighter weight suiting fabrics , even if it is Autumn! Most people will, however, look to opt for medium to heavier weighted fabrics, to primarily keep the cold at bay, but also to achieve a firmer hanging jacket. Also we have seen the obvious rise in demand for overcoats ! The cashmere is proving as popular as ever. It really does have a luxurious quality given its lustre. I have, myself, plumped for a tweedy type number. Looking forward to its arrival very soon! This will also allow me to wear my lighter weight suiting fabric as I can simply slip my overcoat over my coat! (The jacket part of a suit used to be called a coat, therefore an overcoat becomes very logical).
Soon, very soon I will be heading out to a London based fabric supplier to source some exquisite fabrics. They will become part of our limited edition range of which there are some already on our site. Check the existing limited edition fabrics here . If you have any requests then I would love to hear what people would be interested in! Email through suggestions to firstname.lastname@example.org with CT Suggestion as your subject.
I look forward to hearing from you all soon!
The most notable and key trend within suiting currently is the resurgence of the double breasted suit . It has not been seen on anyone younger than 50 for a long time!
For the past couple of seasons the catwalk has thrown the double breasted our way from designers like Moschino featuring a midnight navy, cropped, 6 button 2 fastening jacket, Dolce Gabbana featuring a vibrant red double breasted, 6 button 2 fastening jacket with black buttons and Burberry Prorsum featuring a dark green velvet double breasted, 8 button 2 fastening with peaked collar and straight pockets.
These trends will most certainly be picked up by the high street who usually take their cue from the designers. The high street shops will be filling their windows with these trends and we, as consumers, will walk past and inadvertently soak up the design elements like tiny little fashion sponges.
In our branches customers have been asking about the double breasted, thinking that they want it for some strange reason....
So, how to bring this classic up to date? Well, many of the jackets out there are cropped. They range from the super fitted to the fairly boxy. The buttons cross the range from the two button double breasted (works well for a first foray into the double breasted territory) to the eight buttons as mentioned above.
Either way paired with a well fitted pair of trousers this classic can once again be part of your sartorial existence!
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