A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> Navy
With the crisp winter evenings approaching, instead of being sad you cant rock to the pub in a T-shirt, you should be intensely happy you can now throw on your velvet jacket and slide to the bar (you will now be a little bit too slick to rock there).
T shirts and Jeans are all good for sure, but they are something quite spectacular once you have thrown a Velvet Jacket over the top, add a nice complimentary scarf to accentuate the soft luxurious nature that velvet jackets possess and you will be on to a winter winner.
We have recently acquired some gorgeous new Velvets which can be worn as either a full suit or, as I will be doing, accompanied with a nice pair of loafers some jeans and a shirt as the perfect smart casual evening attire. See our velvet collection here
Weddings are a very popular time for the three piece suit. They denote a class of authority and in terms of formality are certainly a step up from the two piece. The addition of the waistcoat will certainly set you aside from other suit wearers.
The waistcoat should be figure hugging without being restrictive. It should be like this so that your jacket will look as fitted when you wear the suit as a two piece.
The waistcoat, then, is a perfect addition that you can wear or not wear accordingly. If you need to present to peers, if youre hosting an event, if youre getting married, if you want to impress clients, any occasion that you need to have the edge on, the waistcoat lends itself to very neatly.
So, how to rock this undervalued garment!?
The most typical and by far the safest option is the single breasted waistcoat to go with the most popular suit jacket choice, the single breasted, two button.
However, what can be a nice change is the double breasted waistcoat. The more buttons you have, 4, 6, 8 or 10, the less tie will show.
4 and 6 button double breasted waistcoats may be better suited to the 2 button jacket and the 8 and 10 button double breasted waistcoats may be better suited to the 3 button jacket.
Either way, once you have one youll be googling pocket watches....
Rejoice and give praise: the world is a beautiful place. High art is not dead; aesthetic creativity lives on untarnished. This is a great time to be.
Sometimes the clothes and colour combinations displayed by tailors can truly inspire you. They can also be a rich source for commissioning your own clothes.
The ones I highlight here are all from the collection of Domenico Vacca. He has a reputation for rather extravagant designs, particularly shoes and luggage in branded alligator leather. But Vacca has a sense of colour and pattern combination to rival anyone. The first demonstrates one of my favourite colour combinations bright orange, blue and brown.
Orange is not an easy colour to wear well, given that it is most attractive when rich and bright. It requires a blue background (more understated, more stable than any other shirt colour) to sit easily. Here, Vacca's blue shirt has a mid-size check, which works nicely with the plain tie.
The jacket, in a brown/grey, is again a mid-tone background that supports the tie. Navy would make the tie appear brighter, plain grey would have little in common with the earthy orange. Brown works best.
The orange check to the jacket is a nice touch but not required. The important aspects of it are that it adds visual interest (along with the handkerchief) to draw attention away from the tie, and that the check is on a different scale to the shirt.
The central image shows a great way to add variation to a background shirt/tie combination. Normally with a jacket that pale, I would go for a blue tie on blue-striped shirt. The jacket is everything about the outfit; the other elements should pull back. But a close red stripe works well and gives me inspiration to wear my own red-striped shirt with navy.
Image number three is a great combination of colours brown, orange, blue, navy, white and red. But its greatest asset is the combination of patterns. That didn't even occur to you did it? The blend is so subtle as to dissolve completely.
The density of stripe in the shirt and tie aren't that dissimilar. But the tie kicks away from its partner in the contrast between navy, red and white. There is no chance of clashing there. The jacket, meanwhile, has a different pattern, in a different colour, on a different scale. No clash there either. And if you count the bordered handkerchief as another pattern, that's four together without anyone noticing it was happening.
Clothing combinations like these inspire me. If someone can put their clothes together in such a beautiful way, it connects me to their brand more than the workmanship or advertising. Ralph Lauren and Hackett are also past masters check out their shop windows.
Being able to do something so uplifting with the same elements of jacket, shirt and tie is the genius of menswear.
We have had an amazing week! We have been very busy here helping our West End customers on their way to being the sharpest set in town!
On Friday 21st August we had a West End press day. As well as seeing the customers that had booked either appointments for Initial Measuring or Collection and Fitting we had the ladies and gentlemen from the press popping in during the day.
It was an absolute pleasure meeting all of them. There was a real buzz in the office and we had a fun time sipping champagne, munching on sushi and talking about the finer points of sartorial supremacy! There were some very well dressed people roaming the multi roomed West End office. It felt like we had invited our best dressed friends to a house party!. We will be seeing many of them back in our offices during the end of the Summer as we fit them for suits they have chosen. They are some fun ones in the mix including a tweed three piece, a boxy double breasted chappie and a deep, dark simple navy that will most definitely be utilised as a separates jacket to be worn with jeans or slim line chinos!Take inspiration and create something yourself!Johnny The West End Team.
Someone asked me recently what his first two proper, business suits should be. Here's my opinion.
The two most useful and fundamental suit colours are navy blue and mid-grey. They go with the greatest number of shirts and ties, can be anything from casual to wedding attire, and suit most skin colourings. If you want variation, one of these could be in a pinstripe. Make sure the stripe is not too bold or too close together. Avoid checks, at least to start with. As to cloth, both should be wool. Cotton and linen are summer extras, and there is no need for cashmere or silk blends. The average weight of wool used in suits is nine to eleven ounces.
For some variation between summer and winter, I would recommend one lighter weight perhaps seven or eight ounces if you can find it and one heavier more like twelve to fifteen. Flannel is a nice alternative, but would be too heavy for half of the year. (The vast majority of wool suitings are worsted, which is wool that has been combed and flattened to appear thinner and crisper. Flannel or woollen suitings are not combed and are thus rougher.)
Ignore the super wool numbers. This refers to the width of the wool's individual strands the higher the number, the thinner the strand. Thinner wool is more delicate and more expensive, but also less long lasting. Anything around super 100s or super 120s will be fine to start with.
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