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Tag >> Herringbone Suit
I'm not against Christmas. In fact, I rather enjoy it. In my adulthood, however, I find it increasingly difficult to get in the mood as it were until very late in the season - Christmas has become a rather busy time for weddings and so I am busy in my Queen Square studio discussing whether the groom is required to wear the colour-scheme chosen by his betrothed, in the lining, or not.
Or whether or not Tweed is an acceptable alternative to morning dress - to which the answer is of course yes!I'd prefer not to see anything pertaining to Christmas in shops or on billboards until at least the 30th November, but as that is unlikely to happen, I thought I'd get in there first with a seasonally-inspired blog, or title at least, concerning surely the most important part of Christmas: Dressing-up!Picture the scene; Bristol's local tailor - and one of his patrons as it happens, one Darren Lewis (looking resplendent in his HAB-6 petrol navy cashmere herringbone 3 pc suit) await the 07:22 to Southampton for this week's Tailorstop (A Suit That Fits' regular pop-up shops that take our tailoring services around the country) it quickly becomes apparent that there is a festival taking place this weekend - summer is not quite over it would seem - and the already short train that takes us across the beautiful Salisbury Plain is going to fill-up rather quickly!Fortunately, A Suit That Fits' organiser extraordinaire Margarita, has reserved me a seat into which I shoehorn myself.
I am hemmed-in (haha-Ed) by 3 young festival goers - and their myriad bags of camping equipment -psychology students it transpires, and one a graduate, no less!And as I look around at the multifarious branded backpacks, it occurs to me that there is not only no wet-weather gear being worn by this throng, but no Tweed being worn by a single one?!. Tweed, you see, is my go-to festival and camping canvas of choice, and I'll tell you why; unlike denim Tweed will keep you dry owing to it's clever weave of coarse yarn which keeps water from the wearer. And, unlike wet weather gear, including Gortex, it breathes - and anyone who has ever donned their waterproofs to make the pilgrimage from tent to main stage will know that once you have arrived at your destination the rain will almost certainly have stopped and the sun will be beating down, leaving you simmering in your own juices and praying for a downpour!A Suit That Fits range of Tweeds (so named, it is said, after an English tailor mis-read 'Twill' on the sales-note of a Scottish mill close to the RiverTweed) are from Italian mill, Campore and are of the highest quality.
Some are fine and others hand-woven and coarse - and not dissimilar to that Tweed institution Harris.So, Tweed, I tell you - and anyone that will listen - is the way forward for such unpredictable jaunts into the countryside and not just for Christmas - or weddings!. .
Back in December when I was still working in my lovely home town of Bristol Ryan and Jen came to me for a wedding suit. They wanted to get married in the spring and wanted something special. A lovely couple, Jen came along to help pick the cloth but didn't come to subsequent fittings to keep the overall look of the suit a surprise.
Ryan's overall inspiration was Americana with a rockabilly feel. He told me about a pair of shoes he wanted to get (two tone ones) and we looked at the music video Social Distortion: Machine gun blues for inspiration (What fun!) After much dissussion Ryan decided to go for a black herringbone , HB-6 with a Burgundy red lining.
The herringbone cloth and peaked lapels kept the suit vintage, circa 1950 with the slanted pockets, single vent and tapered trousers giving it that modern twist. When Ryan came to the studio to try on his two piece suit both me and David loved the whole thing! The shoes, the tie, shirt and suit went so well together, we immediately asked Ryan and Jen if they minded us having a look at there wedding photos. The lovely couple did not disappoint and have recently been the subject of an online article at Rock and Roll Bride.
Jen and Ryan had there photo's taken by Gemma Bell from Venus Blue Imaging and were kind enough to let me put them up on our blog. Ryan's suit perfectly complimented Jennifer's dress, a custom made vintage inspired number. The whole day looks absolutely lovely.
With wedding suit orders overtaking business suit orders by a country mile - whereas 50% of my time is usually spent making business suits - it's certainly more wedding suits that I'm being asked to make at the moment.
I think it's safe to say we are well and truly in the grip of wedding fever!. And not one to miss out on a photo opportunity, I even took the plunge myself recently - though not with the current Saffron Darby and not a ceremony that was legally binding you understand, but with No.
So, what to wear: Well let's start by looking at what my grooms are having made.
Brown in TownWhilst Bristol is the gateway to the South West, it is not only my rural customers who are requesting autumnal colour-ways for their big day.
I've definitely seen an increase in the number of brown suits being commissioned, and this goes hand-in-hand with the increase in vintage weddings and the more trad' style - coffee brown cashmere/wool herringbon has been popular as has brown pin stripe and chalk stripe.
That's not to say I'm not making suits in other cloths; pic-n-pic in blue - very Don Draper, the Mad Men style gathering pace in Bristol now - also Prince of Wales check in grey and even morning suits have become more popular.
However, the cloth that I'm most excited by is linen. This 3pc beige linen suit was inspired by The Great Gatsby - which although has recently been remade, I've only just seen the original!
I love linen's slightly dishevelled appearance, it's very Brits abroad. And for those who are not accustomed to wearing suits - or consider it an infringement of their human rights - then look no further than linen!
When cut to fit, and tailored to perfection, the silhouette alone is enough to show that one takes the occasion seriously enough to have gone to the trouble of having a suit made, however the lightweight and cooling nature, ney the colour itself, should provide just the right amount of flamboyance, and if necessary, rebellion.
The other benefit if linen is that I have an incredible pallette of colours from bright red, sky blue to pastels galore.
So don't take Bristol's local tailor's word for it, come see for yourself!
Oh, and best of luck on the big day..
Wedding Dress: www.allisonjayne.com
Tea party: www.debange.co.uk
Men in Black; Valencia and Hernandez suits: Always slick both footballers look great in well cut slim fitting black suits with notched lapels and finished off with skinny ties.
David Beckham looks incredible smart in this . This is a very strong style and a statement piece for spring/summer 2012.
Javier Little Pea Hernandez looks so smart in this in a midnight blue suit with notched lapels and a subtle herringbone. Teamed with a crisp white shirt and pink tie the colours really go well together.
Ashley Young does the casual smart look pairing jeans with a slim fit jacket and waistcoat. A look that is perfect for hitting the clubs and something that all the ladies love.
Rio looking every bit the stylish playboy. His peaked lapels hint at power with his one button making for longer lines and showing off his slim physic. The black pocket square matched with his black shirt finishes the outfit and tells us that he's a man that means business!
Ryan Giggs looks sharp is this sharkskin slim fit two piece. Again emulating power with his peaked lapels, one button jacket and slanted flapped pockets.
Here's a little video with the wonderful Reece, giving an insight into his jacket choices for the slighlty more casual occasions, and how to make a little bit more noise with what you're wearing...
By David Haynes (@ASuitTFdavidh), Senior Style Advisor at our Manchester studio.
What makes a Manchester suit? For me, the defining aspects are individuality, and extra thickness, like a ' ', due to the ever changing weather.
I have seen many individual tastes so far in my short period of time in this town and although I will leave the fabric choice and 'fab!' choice of linings to your imagination I thought I'd give you a few simple pointers. I would have to start off with a notch collar single breasted jacket with 2 button fastening. I'd also recommend slanted flapped pockets to add a slender look to the jacket and the individual. I would usually recommend teaming this up with a double vent, dependant on posterior! I do like the gents to add a Waistcoat for a touch of elegance - single breasted usually does the job, but why not mix it up a bit, like the Beckham Suit with 4 pockets to show a little creativity? For the trousers I'd recommended cross pockets with a plain front.
How many pockets, often poses a dilemma - on the rear? Left or right? Why not both - even flapped, just in case car keys are required? We don't want to scratch those leather seats! Now over to the hem of the trousers. Tapered leg (tapering in from the knee) a straight cut (straight cut from the knee) or even a bootcut (flared at the ankle) are all options for the discerning Mancunian, ensuring the suit is exactly to his or her requirements. We really do mean your own requirements too - we have somewhere in the region of 40 billion different style combinations so we can easily style your garment entirely to personal and individual tastes. For this reason I hereby set a challenge to Manchester - who will pick the most unique design?. My Suit of the Week: http://bit.ly/TheManchestersuit
I commissioned my third bespoke suit today, and I had thought about the choice pretty constantly for three weeks. There was one particular bad night in Hong Kong, plagued by jet lag, where I turned over the options for jetted versus flapped pockets for seven solid hours.
I like to hope it was the insomnia that made me obsessive. Essentially, it was a question of wardrobe building. Which suit should I commission next, given my existing bespoke, from Hong Kong and London, and ready-to-wear suits.
The existing wardrobe of suits is:
Single-breasted (SB) navy chalk stripe
Double-breasted (DB) blue herringbone
Mid-grey SB plain worsted
Made to measure:
Pale grey SB with bold Prince-of-Wales check
Mid-grey DB flannel
Dark grey SB worsted, with faint purple check
Blue SB pinstripe
Mid-grey SB Prince-of-Wales
Grey/green SB plain worsted
(Plus a few others either too old or cheap to mention)
So what to commission next? I want to build up a relatively conservative, business wardrobe. So the next commission would likely be navy or grey. My previous two suits were both blue, so logically grey next? But then all three made-to-measure suits are shades of grey
Plus both the bespoke suits have been heavier wools (12-ounce worsted and 13-ounce flannel). I haven't really got a normal, worsted bespoke suit yet one that would stand out at a conference only for its cut.
I'd also absolutely love a Prince-of-Wales; but I have two already. It would be nice to have a navy suit where the jacket would work as a blazer; but that would probably mean a heavier cloth. A bespoke tweed jacket would be different and practical; but I should probably get a suit while I have the money (a jacket would be cheaper).
It was all rather introverted and narcissistic. And not helped by the various cloths on display, such as a lovely thick, grey herringbone that was just sitting there, left over.
In the end I went for an SB two-piece in mid-blue, one button and with a slight cutaway to the jacket front. The cloth is 9.5 ounce, with a very small herringbone. A basic business suit, really. My only concession to experiment is the trousers high waisted, to be worn with braces. I'm excited about this, my first 'braced' suit. The trousers will be about one and a half inches higher than mine at the moment, which isn't that much; but there will be a fish-tail back.
In todays world of fashion we have so much choice and variety, with everything from choosing which designer to favor to the the colour and cut of the garment. Then theres the big question. Will it work for you ??.
Why not make life simple yet still stylish. Channel your thoughts away from becoming a label lover and become asuitthatfits.com lover. When I say a suit that fits this should cover many areas.
Firstly yes of course its about the amazing cut and the way it compliments and flatters your body . Its about you and your personality and your individual style. Your lifestyle should also play a key role too. Whether your a City gent , West End guy or a Country Casual you need to reflect this in your clothes. The main factor is to make it feel and look good keeping it personal with simplicity. A two piece which can be worn for more than one occasion is a perfect choice. Opt for a fabric which is durable , sits flush on the body and a fabric weight which can be used all year round.
Herringbone is a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern usually found in twill fabric. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish.Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular cloths used for suits. It can work fantastic as a two piece or three piece suit and also work great as a separate.
Lets no discuss the suit by starting with the jacket.Keep the attributes simple opting for a two button jacket with minimul features working cuff can look great and by adding your lining color to the last button stitching will denote it as been bespoke and personalised . Still keeping it simple and sharp.
Moving onto the trousers, were keeping them a classic straight cut leg . Dont opt for the standard six belt loop instead go for the side adjusters Keeping it simple and clear. Trousers pockets should be cross pocket so they sit flush to the body and absolutely no turn ups!
So, here you have it, a suit thats stylish and simple !
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