A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> English tailoring
I'm not against Christmas. In fact, I rather enjoy it. In my adulthood, however, I find it increasingly difficult to get in the mood as it were until very late in the season - Christmas has become a rather busy time for weddings and so I am busy in my Queen Square studio discussing whether the groom is required to wear the colour-scheme chosen by his betrothed, in the lining, or not.
Or whether or not Tweed is an acceptable alternative to morning dress - to which the answer is of course yes!I'd prefer not to see anything pertaining to Christmas in shops or on billboards until at least the 30th November, but as that is unlikely to happen, I thought I'd get in there first with a seasonally-inspired blog, or title at least, concerning surely the most important part of Christmas: Dressing-up!Picture the scene; Bristol's local tailor - and one of his patrons as it happens, one Darren Lewis (looking resplendent in his HAB-6 petrol navy cashmere herringbone 3 pc suit) await the 07:22 to Southampton for this week's Tailorstop (A Suit That Fits' regular pop-up shops that take our tailoring services around the country) it quickly becomes apparent that there is a festival taking place this weekend - summer is not quite over it would seem - and the already short train that takes us across the beautiful Salisbury Plain is going to fill-up rather quickly!Fortunately, A Suit That Fits' organiser extraordinaire Margarita, has reserved me a seat into which I shoehorn myself.
I am hemmed-in (haha-Ed) by 3 young festival goers - and their myriad bags of camping equipment -psychology students it transpires, and one a graduate, no less!And as I look around at the multifarious branded backpacks, it occurs to me that there is not only no wet-weather gear being worn by this throng, but no Tweed being worn by a single one?!. Tweed, you see, is my go-to festival and camping canvas of choice, and I'll tell you why; unlike denim Tweed will keep you dry owing to it's clever weave of coarse yarn which keeps water from the wearer. And, unlike wet weather gear, including Gortex, it breathes - and anyone who has ever donned their waterproofs to make the pilgrimage from tent to main stage will know that once you have arrived at your destination the rain will almost certainly have stopped and the sun will be beating down, leaving you simmering in your own juices and praying for a downpour!A Suit That Fits range of Tweeds (so named, it is said, after an English tailor mis-read 'Twill' on the sales-note of a Scottish mill close to the RiverTweed) are from Italian mill, Campore and are of the highest quality.
Some are fine and others hand-woven and coarse - and not dissimilar to that Tweed institution Harris.So, Tweed, I tell you - and anyone that will listen - is the way forward for such unpredictable jaunts into the countryside and not just for Christmas - or weddings!. .
The two pictures below are the starting point for my dissection of William's style and they really manage to encapsulate the simple elegance that he portrays so well.
William, as an unquestionable representative of all things British, favours a traditional English style and cut with his suits. The cut is of the military style with a defined padded shoulder, structured chest and a nipped waist.
To understand this in more detail, Prince Charles prefers a more softly tailored suit, with much less shoulder padding and more drape in the chest area, giving a wholly different and less structured look. This is best illustrated in the picture below, taken at William and Kate's wedding.
With William's navy suit above, he prefers a 3 button coat, which while very traditionally English is usually less favoured than a 2 button. He pulls it off very well due to its excellent tailoring. It fits perfectly in the chest area with no pulling and is worn as all 3 buttons should, with only the middle button fastened. The lapel also rolls extremely beautifully from the second button to the top button, a sign of the quality craftsmanship that has clearly gone into the suit.
The angled hacking pockets with the addition of a ticket pocket are also very English, taking their stylistic cues from the tweed jackets used in hunting. The shirt and tie are a classic combination of light blue for the shirt and a burgundy/red for the tie, featuring a very small geometric print.William also wears a pocket square in ivory silk. This is probably the most versatile colour and fabric combination available. The off white tone matches nothing exactly, but complements most colours perfectly. The sheen of silk also works well with the matte nature of wool suiting materials. We can see it worn in the black tie picture above as well as with the navy suit.In the next blog, I will look at some of Williams more casual looks on his trip to North America.
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