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Tag >> Brown Suit
What colours are you planning to wear this Autumn/Winter season? If you've been keeping on top of this year's trends, you'll know that brown and camel are big. Camel appeared on the runways of all the major fashion weeks this year and in collections by Burberry, Balenciaga and Prada.
is a luxurious colour that makes any garment look expensive, as evidenced below by . If you're looking for a coat to keep you warm in your this and , is the way to go.
Check out our classic camel overcoat and see how the subtle additions of a black velvet collar and black buttons emphasize fantastically the softness of the colour and fabric. If you're thinking more in terms of a two-piece suit, like Justin Timberlake's below, check out our melange-effect, camel-colored cashmere wool suiting fabric by clicking on the get the look button at the bottom of the page. As for the brown trend happening lately, my fellow A Suit That Fits blogger, Brett Deerans, writes all about it in another post (click here to read it now). Meanwhile, over at GQ, the fashion journos have been raving about the mixing of brown and blue, calling it the most fail-safe style arithmetic this year.
While I support the overall direction of this brown/blue renaissance, I do recommend going for a more youthful look by avoiding dark browns and navy blues. If you want to mix these colours, aim a few shades lighter and mix the not-quite-navy blue with a more woody brown, as opposed to a chocolate or a dark fudge. Even better, highlight the brown stripe in your blue, pin-stripe suit with a fine brown tie, men's clutch bag or overcoat. The combination is to die for. .
It's not very often you get to see a plum-coloured suit, but thanks to Ed Westwick at the Los Angeles premiere of his new movie Romeo Juliet, now you do. The British actor is most famous for his role in the American teen drama Gossip Girl in which he gets to wear a phenomenal number of phenomenal suits.
Judging by this appearance, however, he may be even more adventurous in real life than he is in front of the camera. With his stout frame, pale face, brooding eyes and pursed lips, you'd think that Westwick might not be the easiest man to style.
But with the aid of a bespoke suit and the right accessories (take a look at his skinny brown tie, white handkerchief and oxblood shoes), it's hard not to look stylish, really. A Suit That Fits offers a gorgeous plum-like maroon in a sharkskin fabric with a tonic weave. Available as a two piece or a three piece suit, the maroon fabric can be paired with burgundy, paraquette, Sayer or Gin Tonic satin linings for a sumptuous and colourful effect. It may not be suitable for the office, but at a wedding or some other special occasion, the suit will certainly make you stand out from the crowd.
With the return of Downton Abbey imminent (this autumn, to be precise), A Suit That Fits is curious to know what the coming season has in store in terms of tailoring. We're happy to inform you that the show's style will be upped a notch this year by the presence of Gary Carr, who plays Jack Ross, a Chicagoan jazz singer who meets the English aristocrats in London and visits them at their Downton Abbey estate.
While details about Carr's plot-lines remain under wraps (we're secretly hoping for some great jazz vocals from the musical Carr), onset photos were leaked last month showing him looking spiffing in a , a beige and a tie.
The only officially-released picture is more impressive still, with Carr leaning elegantly against a grand piano in full white tie (wing collar shirt, beautifully-fitted tailcoat, wide satin peaked lapels and white carnation to finish) and sporting a 1940s-style pencil moustache. He's a celebrity of the time, says Carr of his character Jack Ross. There is a confidence about him and a suaveness. He's very charming. Carr, who prior to his role in Downton Abbey has had a thriving career in theatre, has also appeared in Law Order: UK, Silent Witness and Holby City. Some great pictures of Carr on London stylist Alice Burnfield's website show Carr wearing what is fast becoming this season's most popular colour, a gorgeous caramel brown.
Judging by these photos alone, Carr will bring some serious elegance to the grounds of the world's most loved country estate. Bring on autumn!. .
Rachel's Wedding Themes: Part 2, Sweet as Pie
In the first installment of my wedding themes blog I looked at reds and pinks. This time we're going to look at a very popular theme at the moment, the sweetie theme.
'Honey, sugar, cup-cake, I'm sure you've called your partner at least one of these terms, love has inherent sweet connotations and it's something you can really have fun with. So this one is fairly straight forward and a really charming theme as you can have lots of fun with the decorations and table gifts. This website is a great place to get all the things you need, they even have proper liquorish root and kola cubes! (Yes I have a sweet tooth) http://www.aquarterof.co.uk/ But for this blog our focus will be the suiting potential.
You don't have to go for a giant splash of colour like these gents above, but if you want a subtle hint why don't you try what I like to call the Cadbury's suit; rich brown with our AE104 Dark Purple lining. It looks really great if you've got a winter wedding, go with a tweed cloth or if you prefer jaffa cakes, the paraquette lining with a cream shirt and a blue tie.
With this theme the devil is in the details. Choose classic suiting shades adding that touch of sugar with love heart cufflinks or candy tones in the contrast details, maybe even powder blue brogues for those with a bold heart.
For the more classic gent go with a light grey silk and wool mix with a subtle purple and blue stripe. Give the detailing a pastel twist with a violet lining, light blue piping and a powder blue melton, keeping everything bold without being brash.
It's not just the suit that can take on the sweetie theme, this is a wedding idea that you can go as far as you like with. It all depends on how crazy you and your bride want to make it! And if all this sweetness is is starting to make your head spin and your teeth ache I recommend a cup of bitter coffee to bring you back down to earth!
With wedding suit orders overtaking business suit orders by a country mile - whereas 50% of my time is usually spent making business suits - it's certainly more wedding suits that I'm being asked to make at the moment.
I think it's safe to say we are well and truly in the grip of wedding fever!. And not one to miss out on a photo opportunity, I even took the plunge myself recently - though not with the current Saffron Darby and not a ceremony that was legally binding you understand, but with No.
So, what to wear: Well let's start by looking at what my grooms are having made.
Brown in TownWhilst Bristol is the gateway to the South West, it is not only my rural customers who are requesting autumnal colour-ways for their big day.
I've definitely seen an increase in the number of brown suits being commissioned, and this goes hand-in-hand with the increase in vintage weddings and the more trad' style - coffee brown cashmere/wool herringbon has been popular as has brown pin stripe and chalk stripe.
That's not to say I'm not making suits in other cloths; pic-n-pic in blue - very Don Draper, the Mad Men style gathering pace in Bristol now - also Prince of Wales check in grey and even morning suits have become more popular.
However, the cloth that I'm most excited by is linen. This 3pc beige linen suit was inspired by The Great Gatsby - which although has recently been remade, I've only just seen the original!
I love linen's slightly dishevelled appearance, it's very Brits abroad. And for those who are not accustomed to wearing suits - or consider it an infringement of their human rights - then look no further than linen!
When cut to fit, and tailored to perfection, the silhouette alone is enough to show that one takes the occasion seriously enough to have gone to the trouble of having a suit made, however the lightweight and cooling nature, ney the colour itself, should provide just the right amount of flamboyance, and if necessary, rebellion.
The other benefit if linen is that I have an incredible pallette of colours from bright red, sky blue to pastels galore.
So don't take Bristol's local tailor's word for it, come see for yourself!
Oh, and best of luck on the big day..
Wedding Dress: www.allisonjayne.com
Tea party: www.debange.co.uk
Every time I read a book on men's style, I underline facts I don't know. Over the past few years, the number of underlinings in my books (and magazines) has got mercifully less. Fewer defaced volumes on the shelf.
But with Eric Musgrave's Sharp Suits, the number of facts multiplied. I gave up 50-pages in, so criminal did it seem to write all over the book. The problem is, this is a history of menswear rather than a guide.
And a history not only contains more facts, those facts come with quotes, anecdotes and supporting evidence. I'd heard most of the stories about Edward VII, for example, but I didn't know this quote from German Chancellor, Prince von Bulow: In the country in which unquestionably the gentlemen dressed best, he was the best-dressed gentlemen.
Equally, I knew Edward's innovations included the dinner jacket, wearing tweeds at the races and leaving open the button of a waistcoat. But I didn't know he was also responsible for the black Homburg hat, shorter tails on evening wear and turn-ups on trousers (to protect the bottoms from muddy ground).
I shall endeavour to scatter some facts from Sharp Suits throughout future posts. But for the moment here's a few to be getting on with:
A 1960 inventory of the Duke of Windsor's wardrobe listed 15 evening suits, 55 lounge suits and three formal suits (all with two pairs of trousers).
By 1849 Brooks Brothers had 1,500 people making its clothes, and could put a claim to being the first company to offer ready-made clothing.
After the Second World War there were approximately 100,000 tailors working in Italy, dressing around 85% of the adult population. And yet it was the Italians that became the leading manufacturers of ready-made suits in the modern era.
Hickey Freeman's greatest innovation was to bring the various parts of suit production into a single factory. Up until then different tailors worked on different parts of a suit in different locations, often at home.
The innovation of Hart Schaffner Marx (which bought Hickey) was to offer proportioned suits with basic body types tall, short, stout and thin.
Pierre Cardin was arguably the most influential menswear designer of the twentieth centuryhe changed attitudes to dress in men who had relatively little interest in their appearance Colin McDowell. Cardin ruined this reputation with astonishingly promiscuous licensing.
The hottest trend of 1962 was the suit silhouette worn by a group of public school boys that gathered around Le Drugstoe, a caf on the Champs Elyses in Paris. They went to Marina, an old tailor on Rue Vernier in the seventeenth arondissement, who was the first to cut flat-fronted, wide-bottomed trousers with small cuffs known as marinettes.
I'm done. More reading to do now.
We love this three piece brown herringbone tweed!
Originally the reserve of outdoor gents to go shooting and hunting, tweed has been seen all over the catwalks this winter and is BIG news this season.
Our Customer....has chosen a low one button, single breasted blazer, with a high 5 button waistcoat. Adding lapels onto the waistcoat to add that extra refinement, as if he needed to.
For those who might be slightly less dandy than this cool cat, wed suggest trying a blazer this winter. Wear it casually with jeans and a polo at the weekend, or team it with smart trousers and a crisp shirt for a casual office look.
To see all of our herringbone fabrics, please click here
Paul Stuart's autumnal suggestions are always an inspiration to me - and particularly relevant as we have been talking about handkerchiefs recently.
Take the checked three-piece suit shown as an illuminating illustration on using red consistently. Though no one would say this gentleman is wearing a red outift, that colour pulls the combination together.
The shirt has a red tattersall check, that's obvious; and the red-and-gold handkerchief is also plain to see. But those pieces drag up subtler tones in the tie, suit and even buttons. All have a ruddy feel the suit has a subtle overcheck of rust and navy, and the tie uses secondary colours linked to red (purple, orange). The handkerchief, though by far the least subtle item, pulls it all together for me. Because without it the outift could slide into acamedic/hunting costume lovely, yes, but not necessarily that original. The bold pop of red-and-gold handkerchief, somewhat recalling a club tie, sharpens everything behind it and demands that notice be paid.
So autumn reds and their associates, combined with originality.
The second suit is brigher and busier, yet no less subtle. Pushing together orange, gold, green, red, blue and purple is no easy task and yet it works because each is built off a secondary version of a central trio green, orange and blue. The gold is a brigher version of orange, red a shadow to that same orange, and purple an accent and partner to blue.
To illustrate how these work in pairs, consider if the purple was used as a pocket handkerchief (or glove in the illustration). It would be lost amidst the red and green of the jacket, and struggle to be an accent to the gold sweater. As an ascot, the purple exists purely as another take on the pattern of the blue shirt. It is too subtle to be anywhere else unlike the orange and gold, which are strong enough to hold their own surrounded by colours that are unrelated tonally.
A similar option for the pocket handkerchief would be a bright or strong green. This would accent the jacket, rather than picking up the gold as the orange gloves in the illustration do.
Last but certainly not least is the grey, green and olive combination. This is both simpler than the first example and subtler than the second. Yet it draws you in through the handkerchief's echo of the sweater's green in its grey tones, and the highlight that the yellow portions of the handkerchief pattern provide.
The same colours are present (and by this time I shouldn't have to tell you that they are the colours to bring into your wardrobe this autumn) but they are minimised, focused and drawn in to the breast pocket rather than throwing the eye about.
Owens suit for his big day. He and his wife-to-be are having a Hollywood V.S. Bollywood themed wedding and he has chosen to rock the big shades, big collar and big (hand-stitched) peaked lapel in a nice 70s style (but more importantly has carried off all aspects flawlessly).
He has chosen the as his base fabric which is a rich chocolate coloured wool, the lining a B5 Khaki, displayed here by the matching pocket square (an essential for anyone serious about suits), perfectly accompanies the brown wool.
A great occasion suit has been created here, but with the way Owen carried himself in the suit it showed that with good style this could be worn on a more day to day basis.
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