A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> Brown Shoes
While black shoes are a predictable safe bet for dark navy or charcoal grey suits and formal wear, brown actually offers a man much more style and flexibility.
Top quality brown leather shoes give a richness and character to all types or tones of cloth worn next to them.
The Milanese are almost fanatical about their preference for brown footwear over black, whether it be a high polish, saddle-tanned business shoe, or rubber soled brown suede for more casual weekend wear.
It is difficult to explain why other colours such as burgundy (although the penny loafer does look smart in this colour), navy or dark grey have never suggested as much class or taste in men's formal ootwear. Perhaps it's because shiny, dyed colours look artificial next to the more natural leather colours of brown and black?
I have noticed in my Camberley studio that tan colours are a popular choice at the moment; these convey a more casual, summery look.
Whatever colour you decide on, remember you shoes should feel comfortable from the moment you try them on (and if at all possible) take some time to get your feet measured properly.
Want to look very dapper for a wedding? Then here are some top style tips to help you choose the dress code:
If you are in doubt check with the bride what colours are being used as this is both your big days. What type of wedding do you want? What is the main colour theme? How much colour detail would you like even if it's just little touches like a or a for the inside lining of the suit.
Black Tie - means bow tie or skinny black tie which is very fashionable at the moment. This is a dress code reserved usually for evening events and social functions. For a man, this is a usually a black jacket, known as a dinner jacket or tuxedo.
White Tie - or evening dress, full evening dress top hat and tails or white tie and tails is the most formal evening dress code. It is worn to ceremonial occasions such as state dinners in some countries, as well as to very formal balls and evening weddings. The chief components for men are the black dress coat commonly known as an evening tailcoat, white bow tie, white waistcoat and starched wing collar shirt, while women wear a suitable dress for the occasion, such as an evening gown.
As evening dress, white tie is traditionally considered correct only after 6pm, although some etiquette authorities allow for it anytime after dark even if that means prior to 6pm.
Cocktail - means a dark suit Formal means wear a suit probably still dark unless they mean black-tie. Informal means lose the tie. As a rule of thumb overdressed is better than undressed, but never be more formal than the groom as this is his day. Lapels - a peak collar works very well adding depth to the body and looks very masculine. Ideal if you are tall and thin. A notch collar works really well if you are slightly shorter and broader. Style -a one button or a two button single breasted suit is perfect allowing for a great silhouette or a three button single breasted for that city gent look. Timing - Summer or winter - if your wedding is in the summer or abroad why not try a linen suit or wool and silk,or mohair In the winter there are some great fabrics too like wool and cashmere, or pure wool.
Shoes - in most cases your shoes should be black lace-ups or Oxfords, this does include morning dress, white tie and black tie. Patent shoes are acceptable.
Many of the people reading this who have come into branch will have undoubtedly seen this suit. I wear it a lot breaking the rule that you should allow a suit recovery from a day at the office by rotating it with others.
I dont care- I love it. I am a big fan of . The lighter colours draw me more than traditional charcoals (although I do own one- its a classic for a reason!!) Grey is perfect for teaming with many other colours.
Its neutrality allows a wide range of choices in tie and shirt colours. It also works very well in other situations; with denim for example. Something we see quite a lot at the West End Studio is people purchasing either suits that can be worn as separates or separate jackets and trousers bought alone. Theres nothing better than buying a few jackets that can be worn on social occasions with other formal trousers or denim, perhaps cord too. This suit, however, is my friend. She helps me feel confident and helps me control my urges to eat burgers for breakfast, burgers for lunch and, er.burgers for dinner.
It is, as you can see, fitted. The fit is where I differ from other suit wearers. The fabric and styling, therefore, has been kept simple and sleek. The texture in the cloth lifts the suit keeping it from being a flat colour. This can help make a relatively cheap suit look like a more luxurious suit .!. As you can see, a plain white shirt (although it does have a slight texture to it) keeps the ensemble looking very sharp while my tie stands out and draws attention to my big old head. Most of you would have your trousers actually reach your shoes, your jacket allow you to breathe like a normal human being and perhaps cover your seat too. Saying that, that is what we are all about at A Suit That Fits.com, allowing everyone to personalise their suit in their own way. Plus, my ankles are my best feature, I have gills so dont need to breath like a normal human being and when I sit down my short jacket gets out the way so I dont squash it....
I have created a link to the suit as I wear it here . Feel free to tweak the attributes until it fits your perfect idea of a suit then watch this space while I totally go against everything I have just advocated and start exploring the possibilities that lie in a pink trouser, yellow jacket combo....Coming to A Suit That Fits.com Studio near you in 2010....
Paul Stuart's autumnal suggestions are always an inspiration to me - and particularly relevant as we have been talking about handkerchiefs recently.
Take the checked three-piece suit shown as an illuminating illustration on using red consistently. Though no one would say this gentleman is wearing a red outift, that colour pulls the combination together.
The shirt has a red tattersall check, that's obvious; and the red-and-gold handkerchief is also plain to see. But those pieces drag up subtler tones in the tie, suit and even buttons. All have a ruddy feel the suit has a subtle overcheck of rust and navy, and the tie uses secondary colours linked to red (purple, orange). The handkerchief, though by far the least subtle item, pulls it all together for me. Because without it the outift could slide into acamedic/hunting costume lovely, yes, but not necessarily that original. The bold pop of red-and-gold handkerchief, somewhat recalling a club tie, sharpens everything behind it and demands that notice be paid.
So autumn reds and their associates, combined with originality.
The second suit is brigher and busier, yet no less subtle. Pushing together orange, gold, green, red, blue and purple is no easy task and yet it works because each is built off a secondary version of a central trio green, orange and blue. The gold is a brigher version of orange, red a shadow to that same orange, and purple an accent and partner to blue.
To illustrate how these work in pairs, consider if the purple was used as a pocket handkerchief (or glove in the illustration). It would be lost amidst the red and green of the jacket, and struggle to be an accent to the gold sweater. As an ascot, the purple exists purely as another take on the pattern of the blue shirt. It is too subtle to be anywhere else unlike the orange and gold, which are strong enough to hold their own surrounded by colours that are unrelated tonally.
A similar option for the pocket handkerchief would be a bright or strong green. This would accent the jacket, rather than picking up the gold as the orange gloves in the illustration do.
Last but certainly not least is the grey, green and olive combination. This is both simpler than the first example and subtler than the second. Yet it draws you in through the handkerchief's echo of the sweater's green in its grey tones, and the highlight that the yellow portions of the handkerchief pattern provide.
The same colours are present (and by this time I shouldn't have to tell you that they are the colours to bring into your wardrobe this autumn) but they are minimised, focused and drawn in to the breast pocket rather than throwing the eye about.
Newcomers to the world of suits and men's style are often surprised how well brown and blue work together, and at the same time how readily it is dismissed.
For the Americans it has reached the stage of a rule along the lines of no brown in town or no white after Labor Day. The Boston Brahmins are famous for their love of brown shoes, while Italians are quoted saying they own no black shoes whatever.
If you have a brown suit almost nothing will look better than a blue and white striped shirt with a dark blue tie. Strong dark colours that work well together look more authoritative than the washed-out, everyday business ensemble of grey suit, white shirt and pale tie.
The Italians do this a lot better and appreciate the values of a strong yet dark colour. But then it does tend to work best with darker skin.
Try a dark brown tie (perhaps with a white club stripe) with a normal blue business suit. The strength of colour is often more satisfying than another dark shade grey or blue for example. (It may also go well with those dark brown brogues. That's dark brown, not tan make sure you know the difference!)
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