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Tag >> Anthony Hopkins chalk stripe suit
When I sit down with a client and ask the question Plain? or Pinstripe?, I am often met with a reply such as Ermmmm. I'm not sure. What do you think? My answer will vary depending on a few things; The first thing I usually want to know is, what will the suit be used for.
This, combined with your body shape, height and personality will help me determine my answer. I usually try to avoid on really tall people, unless it's quite a fine stripe, or a faint stripe.
Thicker stripes will only accentuate your height as it draws attention to the length of the lines. I find a plain cloth works much better on tall people, and the addition of a ticket pocket really helps to break the jacket up, taking the focus away from your height. It's amazing the difference choosing the right cloth can make. For instance, if you are of a fairly large build a plain cloth can exaggerate your frame, making you appear larger than you actually are. Using a wide pinstripe can has the reverse effect, making it also a great cloth for the shorter gent. I would always use a wider stripe rather than a narrow stripe, as less stripes are more flattering.
Looking at the photo above a wide chalk stripe really works to slim down Anthony Hopkins while the light grey keeps the look some what casual. Another great use of the stripe is when designing a double breasted jacket. Anyone entering my studio looking for a double breasted suit will be encouraged to choose a wide stripe as I think it fits really well with the overall look. Plain cloth can also work really well for a DB but again body shape should be considered.
One final piece of advice on the Plain, or Pinstripe debate is to think about your shirts and ties at home before you design your new garments. I tend to stick to the two out of three rule when it comes to stripes. That is, always make sure that you have two of one, and one of the other when choosing your outfit for the day. It's not always a good idea to wear a stripe on your suit, shirt and tie. I would always have one of them plain to balance the outfit perfectly. This photo of 50 Cent is a great example, a plain suit and shirt with a matching striped tie and pocket square.
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