A Suit That Fits Blog
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Tag >> 1920's suit
When you put aside sound it is vital that all visual details are highly considered. The focus now relies on what we can see, a person's dress becomes highly important, telling us a lot about the character.
With this in mind The Artist has also cast colour aside to boot. Textural depth steps forward and striking the right balance between white and black becomes paramount.
Above all it's the shades of grey that give the detail, but the extremes that define and hold focus on the image. All these tools and observations are things you can use to your advantage in your day to day life. Peaked lapels feature heavily and this stunning double breasted three piece in a tweed cloth fits this gentleman's (Al Zimmer) rounder body shape. The lapel gives him presence when compared to the gentleman next to him. The key thing to remember though when picking a work suit is context. Bear in mind your profession and ask yourself the relevant questions, such as, is a peak too much for your job? As an accountant probably yes but for a PR executive this more flamboyant look could be perfect.
The Artist features iconic tails, satin peaked lapels, double breasted waistcoat and satin covered buttons. The difference in textures carry well in black and white. If you're getting married this year and want to go black tie this is the look I'd go for! Classic, classy and a real stand out style. It screams elegance and success from the tip of the peak, to the fall of the tail. The subtle textures carry as well across a room full of guests as they do through the media of film.
'Disheveled' I think is the word, with the rumpled suit emphasising George's state of mind. Keeping sharp will always give you more confidence and make you more effective in you work life, it's also a good trick for catching a ladies eye. Remember Barney from 'How I Met Your Mother,' the cheesy lines don't work but the sharp suit will turn heads.
And what mention of The Artist would be complete with out a mention of little Uggy. He ultimately proves that subtle detail like a bow tie can make even a dog fit for the red carpet.
Recently working in our studio in Manchester I have noticed a new style creeping in. It seems that the 1920's is all the rage at the moment. This era included a lot of interesting suiting choices, making it still a very popular decade that my customers reference.
There were two very distinct suiting fashions during 1920s, with being one of the very few constants. were usually only worn for formal occasions.
In the early twenties men's fashion was characterized by extremely high waisted trousers, often worn with belts. Lapels on suit jackets were not very wide as they tended to be buttoned up high. This style of jacket seems to have been greatly influenced by the uniforms worn by the military during the First World War.
Trousers were relatively narrow and straight (never tapered) and they were worn rather short so that a man's socks often showed. Trousers also began to be worn cuffed, something we are seeing more of in our Manchester studio.
By 1925, wider trousers commonly known as Oxford Bags came into fashion. Lapels on suit jackets became wider and were often worn peaked. Loose-fitting sleeves without a tapper were another trade mark of this time. During the late 1920s,double-breasted waistcoats, often worn with a single-breasted jacket, also became quite fashionable.
For formal occasions in the daytime, a morning suit was usually worn. In the evening a short tuxedo jacket was preferred.
In my opinion, tailored trousers are probably the hardest item in a man's wardrobe to shop for off the rack, which is why I want to try to extol the virtues of custom made trousers .
Buying made to measure; you have the luxury of choosing not only the cloth, but every detail that goes into a pair of - pocket configuration, belt loops or side adjusters, turn-ups and ultimately the fit which is the most important part.
As someone who prefers a slim trouser cut with side adjusters and a single pleat, I can attest that it is next to impossible to find this in any menswear ready to wear collection. The drawings above depict just how much variety you can introduce with your trousers. Men in the 1920's wore their strides fairly high waisted and with a wider leg than nowadays. Maybe you're curious about pleats, perhaps you just want to try out turn-ups on your trousers, the choice is completely down to the customer.
Each and every person is a different size and a different shape which is the beauty of made to measure clothing - each piece is made for the individual. Many people will have their blazers and suits made to measure, but still buy their trousers off the peg. Surely the range of choice available coupled with superior fit makes it a necessary step up for any serious clothing aficionado.
Although never meant to be a fashion statement, just a method of hiding their guns in public, the 1930s gangsters did start a fashion craze. Though not until a good 30 to 40 years had passed and the movies and television started to popularise the wild days of the American prohibition and the men on both sides of the law then, Elliott Ness and Al Calpone to name but two.
Even then it was a mystery why the - because in actuality the gangsters usually wore as it was easier to draw their guns from the shoulder or hip holsters that they wore.
This photo of Humphrey Bogart, taken at just a few scant years after prohibition had been passed up as a bad idea and you can see what has become the iconic 'Gangster' suit of the 1990-2010. The dark brown wide chalk strip double breasted suit with wide lapels and a long opening and a boxy shorter jacket, the trousers were east fitting with a tendency to have turn-ups (although the one styled above does not). Although the gangster preferred the double breasted suit, the law keepers still stuck to the single breasted with waistcoats ( Elliot Ness played by Kevin Cosnier) or just a casual jacket and contrasting trousers (as worn by Sean Connery's Charter) as seen here in a still from the film 'The Untouchables'.
A contemporary photo of Al Calpone and gang member circa 1934 note the waistcoats, double breasted jackets and wide legged Oxford bag style of trousers.
And here we have Johnny Depp bringing the whole look up to date in this stylish dark brown two piece, with slanting flapless pockets and slanting breast welt (or pocket).
A really modern and stylish take on the 1930s original.
Boardwalk Empire, the new epic gangster series from HBO, has just hit our shores - and it brings with it some seriously funky suits!
On the above picture, the deep collar is held together just behind the tie with a tie chain, this helps support the knot of the tie and secures the collar's look.
Hand painted ties became an accepted form of decoration in America in the 1920s and 30s. The widths of some of these ties went up to 5 inches and were always bright and very flamboyant.
Single breasted suits were starting to come into their own with extra wide lapels that were very much in vogue. The wearer would also nearly always sport a waistcoat with a wide variety of patterns; the most popular being the wide check, which gives the wearer the appearance of being a lot wider than they actually are. Perhaps a good thing for the gangster or politician with intimidation in mind!
The Godfather, Goodfellas, Donny Brasco, Miller's Crossing and The Sopranos all also feature some fantastic tailoring.
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