Whether you favour a super slim, slim or classic fit, few things are as flattering to the male torso as a tailored shirt.
If you’ve already invested in a tailored jacket, you don’t want to lose the attractiveness of your appearance by taking it off to reveal a badly fitted, off-the-peg shirt. Every tailored suit deserves a tailored shirt underneath it.
But what’s the makeup of a tailored shirt and how do we measure you for one?
The measurements we take for your tailored shirt are related to the makeup of the shirt itself. To understand what measurements we take and why we take them, you should know what the blueprint of a tailored shirt looks like.
The Front of the Shirt
The most important features on the front of the shirt are the collar, placket and cuffs.
The collar is a folded piece of cloth complete with stiffeners, which makes up the neckline of your shirt. The shape of the collar varies from a spread (or cutaway) collar to a classic point collar to a button-down collar.
The placket is a long strip of fabric running down the front of your shirt where your buttons are sewed.
The cuffs can be found at the bottom of your sleeves and usually come in two different types: barrel cuffs, featuring buttons, and a French cuff, needing cufflinks.
The Back of the Shirt
At the back of the shirt, you’ll find one large piece of cloth usually called the “one-piece back.” This piece of cloth meets the “yoke” at the top of the back. The “yoke,” which stretches out over your shoulders and rises up to your neck, can sometimes be made up of two pieces of cloth, in which case it’s called a “split-yoke.”
Sometimes you’ll find “box pleats” on a shirt, two folds on the back of the shirt located where the yoke meets the back. These are designed to create more comfort. With more modern, slimmer fitting shirts, the box pleats are usually left off.
Two other aspects of the shirt’s back that may or not be present, and if present, may not be very noticeable, are “darts” and the “tail.” The tail is that piece of cloth you tuck into your trousers. Darts are seams on the back of the shirt which are added to give it a more tailored, shapely look (as you can see below).
Our Measuring Process
The process of measuring you for a tailored shirt isn’t that different to measuring you for a tailored suit. There are, of course, fewer pieces of cloth that make up a shirt compared to a suit and this means fewer measurements.
Some of the measurements we take include:
- neck around – taken just below the Adam’s apple.
- sleeve length – from the back of your neck to the centre-part of your hand.
- shoulder width – across the back of your shoulders.
- chest around – roughly at nipple level, under the armpits and over your should blades.
- waist around – at the fullest part of the stomach at the level of the belly button.
- shirt length – usually ending around the bottom of the buttocks.
- bicep around – without flexing.
- wrist around – just above the wrist bone.
When measuring you, we ask you to stand normally and not over-inflate your chest. With some measurements, we make sure we can insert an index finger between your body and the tape. Other measurements, like the sleeve, are taken closer to the body.
We hope this arms you with some of the information you need to go forward with our measuring process. Whether we see you in one of our studios for a measuring appointment or you decide to take your measurements at home, we look forward to creating your next tailored shirt.