Nothing is sharper than a fine tailored suit . It evokes a certain kind of confidence and I think that is the most important part of a gentleman’s wardrobe. However to my surprise, a lot of men get it all wrong when it comes down to the nitty-gritty. In this blog, I am going to break it down to five simple rules, so you always look your best.
Rule 1 – Wear a full suit!
If you are going to wear a suit, make sure it’s a full suit and a combination of a suit jacket and a pair of trousers.
They may be the same color, but the texture and shade can vary dramatically and anyone in the know will be able to tell the difference. Suit trousers always wear out faster than the jacket, so when purchasing a suit, it is always a wise investment to buy an additional pair of trousers.
Rule 2 – Button Up?
To button or not to button …that is the question most confusing for a lot of guys. Follow these rules and you will never get it wrong again.
Two-button jacket : The rule is very simple here. Never button the bottom button of your jacket …ever!
Three-button jacket : The rule here is – Sometimes top button, Always middle button and Never bottom button.
Double-breasted jacket : Follow the same rules here as the single breasted jackets.
6×2 double breasted is the most popular style. As seen in the picture, the bottom buttonhole is never buttoned, just like its 2 button single-breasted counterparts.
Functional cuffs : A fine tailored suit will always have working buttonholes. In this case, you want to always leave the bottom buttonhole opened.
Waistcoat : Does not matter how many button is on the waistcoat . You want to always leave the last buttonhole on your waistcoat opened.
Rule 3 – Your Jacket
Jacket length is very tricky because of the current crop jacket look. Unless you are going for a super trendy look, I recommend you to follow the classic jacket length rule.
Jacket length should be half of your total body proportions. This way, you ensure that your seat is always covered, which is the most appropriate for the office. You can go shorter if you like, but make sure that the back of your jacket falls below your seat.
Rule 4 – Sleeves
Sleeve length is a very personal thing. Some guys like to show sleeve cuff while others prefer not. If you like to show a little cuff , make sure to show about 3/8” to 1/2”, anything more than that will make your jacket sleeve length seem way too short.
If you are not a fan of showing cuff , then make sure your jacket sleeve length falls right where the biggest part of your thumb begins, right below your wrist.
From left to right:
Sleeve is way too long.
Perfect amount of shirt cuff shown here
Sleeve is way too short.
Rule 5 – Trousers
The most contemporary style right now is the flat front trouser , no cuffs with a slight break. (Yes, showing socks is definitely a plus, so make sure you wear the nice ones!)
The more classic and elegant way to wear a pair of trouser is pleated with a cuff. It is definitely more of a retro look . If you are going to go with this style, the trick to making it more modern is to wear it with a 1½” to 2” cuff with a very narrow bottom and a slight break.